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thrmaln
Mar 7, 2005, 7:57 PM
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Hello All,
My friend and I just recently started to get into rock climbing. We just bought all of our equipment and plan to spend some time learning the basics at Boulderdash in Thousand Oaks. We pass Stoney Point every day commuting home from work in Newbury Park. Is there a specific route anyone can reccomend as a beginner route to try climbing outdoors? We would like to try a toprope climb, but would like to have someone show us how to set the toprope up correctly. Do we need special equipment to set up a toprope, or are there places where you just clip your rope in. Are the majority of climbers helpfull enough to lend a hand to newbies? Anyone give beginner clinics? We may just swing by to walk around sometime this week after work just to check things out. Since I have never been there, is there a parking lot or does everyone park on the street.
Any help will be greatly appreciated,
Marc Webster
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urbanfood
Mar 7, 2005, 9:07 PM
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hey marc,
yeah stoney's a good place to do some local climbing. it's primarily a toprope place with quite a bit of boudlering routes as well. there's a stoney point climbing guide that you should pick up. any sport chalet/rei should have it. you want to check out mozart wall. in the summer, it can get quite busy after work since the days are longer. you can just park along the street but don't leave any gear or other things laying out in your car. i've heard a few different stories of cars getting broken into and gear being stolen. however, if you don't leave the invitation sitting on your back seat, you should be fine (i've never had a problem).
you do need special gear to set up top rope and you need lots of slings, but don't try and do this yourself just yet. you need to learn how to set up top rope anchors. there are some people that do conduct anchoring classes at stoney point. you can check out http://www.getlostadventures.com/ as they have classes.
also, you can pm me if you'd like. i'd be happy to show you around some saturday morning and set up some top ropes and show you some anchoring setups and get some good climbing in.
you'll find climbers are pretty friendly in general and are more than willing to help out someone with less experience. of course you' run into exceptions as well, but overall, climbers are a pretty cool bunch.
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thinksinpictures
Mar 7, 2005, 10:01 PM
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In reply to: you'll find climbers are pretty friendly in general and are more than willing to help out someone with less experience. of course you' run into exceptions as well, but overall, climbers are a pretty cool bunch.
This is usually true, but with an important caveat - don't assume that because someone is out climbing at Stoney that they actually know how to set a safe toprope anchor. I've seen a lot of anchors there that you wouldn't catch me climbing on.
A good piece of "gear" that you might consider investing in is a copy of Freedom of the Hills (there are other good books, but none so comprehensive that I've seen). You can't learn how to set anchors from a book, but you can learn enough to have a good idea of whether the anchor that someone else is helping you set is actually safe or not.
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gamehendge
Mar 7, 2005, 10:16 PM
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Try Mozart's Wall. Easy TR set up, begginer/intermediate short climbs, in the shade most of the day and easy approach. 5.7-5.10c I believe.
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csproul
Mar 7, 2005, 10:25 PM
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Hi Marc
I work in Newbury Park as well and frequent Boulderdash. I am up on the partners list in Boulderdash if you want to look me up there, or PM me. I don't go to Stoney Point or many of the local areas for that matter. I do go sometimes to some other local spots in the Santa Monicas (not much toproping) and make frequent trips to Josh, Red Rocks, Yosemite....Get in touch with me and we can climb in the gym and maybe plan a trip outdoors as well.
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csproul
Mar 7, 2005, 10:25 PM
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Hi Marc
I work in Newbury Park as well and frequent Boulderdash. I am up on the partners list in Boulderdash if you want to look me up there, or PM me. I don't go to Stoney Point or many of the local areas for that matter. I do go sometimes to some other local spots in the Santa Monicas (not much toproping) and make frequent trips to Josh, Red Rocks, Yosemite....Get in touch with me and we can climb in the gym and maybe plan a trip outdoors as well.
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thrmaln
Mar 7, 2005, 11:39 PM
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Hey Guys,
Thanks for all the great advice and offers of help. Urbanfood and Csproul I will definately take you up on your offers of showing me the basics sometime soon. My friend and I plan to take our belay test either today or tomorrow depending on how late we work today. We also plan to just swing by Stoney to see what outdoor climbing is all about and just walk around. We have not joined Boulderdash yet, but it looks as though we will rather then pay per visit. I hope to learn the basics and become comfortable with belaying and climbing in a safer environment before I venture outside, but I would imagine the bug will hit soon and it will not be as long as I think.
Thanks again,
Marc Webster
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rockguy
Mar 7, 2005, 11:55 PM
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Yeah ditto on Mozart's wall. There are 4 bolts on top that you can use to set up a top rope, so all you would need are some lockers and webbing. Another area you can check out is Beethoven's wall, though you would need some nuts and hexes to set up that one. Don't forget that there is also some great bouldering to be had. Oh yeah, and watch out for broken glass (everywhere) and poison ivy (north side mainly) once it warms a bit, and if you feel inspired to do so, take a bag with you to pack some trash out :D . Happy climbing!
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hikerken
Mar 8, 2005, 12:31 AM
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"Anyone give beginner clinics?"
Yes, several people at www.outdoorsclub.org give beginning clinics, anchor clinics, rapelling clinics, all under $20. Those who have participated report them to be good.
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jt512
Mar 8, 2005, 2:00 AM
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In reply to: "Anyone give beginner clinics?" Yes, several people at www.outdoorsclub.org give beginning clinics, anchor clinics, rapelling clinics, all under $20. Those who have participated report them to be good.
However, if you're going to go the pay-to-play route (which is not a bad idea), I highly recommend seeking instruction from a certified guide, not a local club. Contact Joshua Tree Climbing School or Vertical Adventures.
-Jay
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urbanfood
Mar 8, 2005, 2:11 AM
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In reply to: This is usually true, but with an important caveat - don't assume that because someone is out climbing at Stoney that they actually know how to set a safe toprope anchor. I've seen a lot of anchors there that you wouldn't catch me climbing on.
good point. in fact stoney point is where i've seen some of the sketchiest anchor setups that i wouldn't get on either. in fact, i rarely jump on someone elses rope unless i know them.
in regards to that marc, don't jump on someone else's rope/anchor, atleast for the time being until you learn what's a good anchor or that person has walked you through the set up steps. stoney is the place to be especially wary. you'll see a lot of stupid stuff out there, however, it's good to see the bad setups and understand why they are bad. you do learn a lot by analyzing bad setups. this will make sense to you once you start learning about it.
in regards to the gym membership, don't forget longer days are coming which allows more time for climbing outside after work. when i first got into climbing a few years ago i joined rockreation in west la. it was good and i liked it but as i met more climbers i started going to the gym less and climbing outdoors during the week. i eventually retired my membership there but did start going again the last month or so to climb once a week in the evening and i just pay per visit. once a week is the same price as a membership (by the month) but no commitment or annual fee. you'll also find as you meet more climbers you'll always be climbing outdoors on the weekends.
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pipsqueekspire
Mar 8, 2005, 5:10 AM
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If I may- try www.wildernessoutings.com
they are one of the oldest outdoor programs in the LA area and used to be part of adventure-16. The main focus of their program are courses that they teach at Stoney and Jtree. You can hire a guide for the day at Stoney to do a full 8 hours of anchor skills. Its a lot of information to try and cram in for one hour with a friend. If you want high yield and an AMGA guide locally I think this is your best bet.
-pip
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racebannon
Mar 8, 2005, 6:02 AM
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Let me know when you are going. I am always up for stoney point.
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thrmaln
Mar 8, 2005, 10:01 PM
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WOW :D
Everyone has been great. I will definately take everyone up on their offers of help sometime soon. I may swing by stoney today on my way home and just walk around and check it out.
Best regards,
Marc
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quickdraw_mgraw
Apr 7, 2005, 12:48 PM
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In reply to: "Anyone give beginner clinics?" Yes, several people at www.outdoorsclub.org give beginning clinics, anchor clinics, rapelling clinics, all under $20. Those who have participated report them to be good.
I had a friend who signed up for one of these anchoring "clinics". She came. She saw. She left. She said that you get what you pay for, and that you'd be way better off thumbing through "Freedom of the hills".
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