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Easy Routes at J-tree
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climbingaggie03


Mar 7, 2005, 9:56 PM
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Easy Routes at J-tree  (North_America: United_States: California: Joshua_Tree_National_Park: _Joshua_Tree_National_Park_Overview_)
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I know that an easy route at j-tree is hard to come by, but does anyone know of some 5.4-5.7 climbs. trad or bolted, both are good


tarzan420


Mar 7, 2005, 10:04 PM
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I really enjoyed climbing at Quail Springs while I was there, lots of short easy routes.

Also, Upper Right Ski Track on Intersection Rock.


chanceboarder


Mar 7, 2005, 10:04 PM
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theres a ton of stuff between 5.4 and 5.7 pick up the new Jtree book with 60 favorite climbs between 5.5 and 5.9

here are a few to get you started.

The Bong 5.4 in Hidden Valley
Mike's Books 5.6 on Intersection Rock
Double Dip 5.6 (bolted slab) in Echo Cove
The Mikado 5.6 in Indian Cove
Leaping Leana 5.6 in Real Hidden Valley
Solar Tecnology 5.6 in Lost Horse
Frosty Cone 5.7 in Lost Horse
Toe Jam 5.7 in Hidden Valley
Double Dog Leg 5.7 in Lost Horse
and if you're feeling good Double Cross 5.7+ (5.8 in the new guide book) in Hidden Valley.


crshbrn84


Mar 7, 2005, 10:04 PM
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the bong 5.4 the blob
the eye 5.3 cyclops boulder
west face overhang 5.7 chimney rock
toe jam 5.7 the old woman
mikes books 2pitch 5.6 intersection rock
those are just a few


all_that_is_rock


Mar 7, 2005, 10:10 PM
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try Big Moe. people lead this all the time. the gear is good all the way up and it cant be more than a 5.5 :twisted:


nthusiastj


Mar 7, 2005, 10:12 PM
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In reply to:
theres a ton of stuff between 5.4 and 5.7 pick up the new Jtree book with 60 favorite climbs between 5.5 and 5.9

I second that. I just ran into the author at Ouray this past weekend. Cool guy. The book looks cool too. Falcon press I think.


boltdude


Mar 7, 2005, 11:50 PM
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I know that an easy route at j-tree is hard to come by
Huh? Joshua Tree has TONS of easy climbs in the 5.4-5.7 range, way more than nearly any other area, and often concentrated. Trashcan rock, Playhouse rock, Dairy Queen, Indian Palisades corridor, HV campground stuff, Cap rock, Reggie Dome, Belle Campground, etc etc etc. Not to mention easy TR setups on harder stuff. The new easy climbs guide is OK, but more focused towards particular routes while there are often other worthy routes right near them that aren't covered. In other words, you may wait in line for one route and miss other pretty darn good routes right next door because the format doesn't tell you about the other climbs. Might be best to see if you can borrow one of the comprehensive '92 guides to supplement the easy climbs book if you decide to get that one, especially if you'll be there when it's crowded (for instance anytime in the next month).


rizzuh


Mar 8, 2005, 12:41 AM
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Moosedog Tower in Indian Cove has a really fun 5.6. I think it's 2 or 3 pitches/ trad. This was my first multi pitch climb and I totally loved it.

Closer to Hidden Valley you got Mike's Books (or Open Book?) which I'm sure somebody else has already mentioned. But that's also a really good easy one. It's on Intersection Rock.


vivalargo


Mar 8, 2005, 1:41 AM
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Black Tide -- 5.7 friction
Mike's Book -- 5.6, 2 short pitches, nice summit
Upper Right Ski Track (buckets, classic)
The Bong (big crack)
Skinny Dip -- Steve's Canyon (unique)


aikibujin


Mar 8, 2005, 7:56 AM
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I'm surprised that no one had mentioned SW Corner (5.6) on Headstone Rock, Ryan Campground.

Climbingjtree.com is a good resource for route information, more description than the guidebooks.
http://www.climbingjtree.com/rock/good_routes.html


trenchdigger


Mar 8, 2005, 8:59 AM
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There's lots of good easy routes in JTree. There's also some "easy" routes that you should stay off of if you're in search of less challenging routes. A couple that come to mind include:

Wilson Regular Route (5.5) - Lost Horse: It's a loose, alpine style adventure. Route finding is not straightforward for a beginning leader. Nonetheless, a fun adventure climb if you know what you're getting into.

Walk On The Wild Side (5.7) - Saddle Rocks: By all means a classic, but the traditional bolting leaves you with long slab runouts.

Right On (5.5) - Saddle Rocks: A tough, slightly runout (though not worthy of an "R" IMO) first pitch leads to some awkward climbing in the chimney above.

Any other suggestions for people looking for routes like this that might get suckered in by the easy rating?

~Adam~


bandycoot


Mar 8, 2005, 9:06 AM
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Atlantis wall has tons of climbs in that range.


brianinslc


Mar 8, 2005, 9:09 AM
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In reply to:
Black Tide -- 5.7 friction

Thought that was called, "Stitcher Quits"...ha ha...

http://www.joshuatreetrad.com/

Good book, easy to follow, nice layout. Some nice classic easier routes.

J-tree is loaded with easy to moderate climbs. I'll ditto the 5.6 on the Headstone as a good 'un.

-Brian in SLC


azrockclimber


Mar 8, 2005, 9:09 AM
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yeah atlantis...


fredbob


Mar 8, 2005, 9:12 AM
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There are literally hundreds of routes in the 5.4 to 5.7 range at Josh. Many good suggestions have been made above.


washufinku


Mar 8, 2005, 9:12 AM
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I second SW corner. Worth it even if it the only climb you do. Best 5.6 ever.
--Carleton


vivalargo


Mar 8, 2005, 1:04 PM
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Yeah, if I were to pick any of these it would be Headstone. The route on the right is also pretty easy, 5.8 or so with bolts. Left side is all time. Couple of the first routes I ever led.

JL


crotch


Mar 8, 2005, 1:16 PM
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If you like chimneys, there are 2 easy ones on Outhouse Rock. I think one is 5.3 and the other 5.6. From there you could TR some nice 8's and 9's.


Partner fire_eyes


Mar 8, 2005, 1:16 PM
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All of the routes mentioned are good, but if exposure is an issue for you (looking for easier climbs, it may be) then SW Corner and Upper Right Ski Track are gonna be tough for you.

Keep in mind your downclimb and/or rappel. You really should have a guide book before you get on any routes at Josh. Some of the downclimbing (ie: getting off the Blob when doing The Bong) can be sketchy. And Intersection Rock is a rapel. You need to be comfortable rapeling before getting on there.

Maybe Short Wall in Indian Cove is a good place for you to start. It is an easy walk-on for top rope, and lots of short, easy leads.

Have fun!


michaellane


Mar 8, 2005, 4:38 PM
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Easier than you're asking about but very worthy is The Eye on Cyclops Rock ... runout 5.2 or something like that. Really fun. Among the steepest routes of its grade I've ever climbed. And it's a long single pitch, too. There's also this wandering route on Turtle Rock I did once ... can't remember the name, but it's a couple pitches of 5.Fun. Check out Dairy Queen Wall, too. Several juggy, fun, near-vert routes there!

As others have remarked, there's no shortage of routes of the difficulty you're looking for.

Have fun!

--ML


climbsomething


Mar 8, 2005, 4:52 PM
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A lot of these climbs/areas are good. Thus, a lot will also have lines. Bring a book, a CrazyCreek, or a cattle prod :lol:

If you're rank beginners, do everybody a favor (yourselves included) and don't try leading Double Cross...


thegreytradster


Mar 8, 2005, 5:17 PM
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Go here and enter the appropriate info in the search parameters and you'll get 161 results.

http://www.climbingjtree.com/rock/index.html#new

A search of my own data base (ones I've actualy done) returned 271 results. A few even had stars :wink:

There's no need to stand in line. 95% of the climbers concentrate in a dozen or so areas.

The preceeding advice on the ones to stay off of is accurate as well as anything Bartlett gives a PG, at least till you get the pro dialed in.


fernregan


Mar 8, 2005, 5:23 PM
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Check out www.joshuatreeclimb.com for a comprehensive list of well/easily-protected moderate climbs: Look for (Recommended Quality, Safe Leads Just say no to run-outs and sandbags) in the free preview section of the page.

My personal favorite is Mental Physics 7+ on Lenticular Dome. Bit of a walk, but worth it.


halepierce


Mar 8, 2005, 5:29 PM
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Taken from the "Prep Climbs" additions to the SCMA Crack Workshop
They're not all classics, but offer a variety of climbing. The page numbers included correspond to the 1992 Randy Vogel guidebook.

All of these climbs are 5.7:

Bighorn Hand Crack p.60
Smooth as Silk p.95
Double Dog Leg p.98
Classic Corner p.109
Bush Crack p.120
White Lighting p.125
Scrumdillishus p.131
Frosty Cone p.131
Mr. Misty Kiss p.131
Double Cross p.189
Nereltne p.223
Life’s a Bitch and Then You Marry One p.279
Mental Physics p.298
Wisest Crack p.379
Dolphin p.463
Crackup p.482
Gargoyle p.483


Partner fire_eyes


Mar 8, 2005, 9:30 PM
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In reply to:
There's also this wandering route on Turtle Rock I did once ... can't remember the name, but it's a couple pitches of 5.Fun.

Blistering5.5? That's a super good route. Really interesting, great top out, and two pitches. I heartily recommend it! However, the downclimb on that rock is tough...class 4 for sure, fyi.

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