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Belaying the second- Reverso or GriGri?
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moondog


Mar 3, 2005, 2:17 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 196

Re: Belaying the second- Reverso or GriGri? [In reply to]
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only the Reverso is recomended for hands free use in the autoblock mode.

Hey Bostonclimbah

Can you tell me where this idea came from? I looked in the REVERSO instructions and could not find a recommendation for hands-free use in the autoblock mode...


glanzer77


Mar 3, 2005, 2:40 PM
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Registered: Jun 3, 2004
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Re: Belaying the second- Reverso or GriGri? [In reply to]
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ATC or Figure 8....I have done several multis with only an 8...but I now own a gri2 and love it.


cchildre


Mar 3, 2005, 3:08 PM
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Re: Belaying the second- Reverso or GriGri? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
only the Reverso is recomended for hands free use in the autoblock mode.

Hey Bostonclimbah

Can you tell me where this idea came from? I looked in the REVERSO instructions and could not find a recommendation for hands-free use in the autoblock mode...

Reverso in autoblock mode is always hands free, all you do is pull the free end to keep slack out of the system and anytime your second falls the device locks, an equipment failure is probably necessary for this device to ever slip. A Gri has a small chance that it could slip or simply not lock in the event of a fall. A slowly accelerating fall like on a slab could take out the entire rope without ever locking the device and deckola!


pipsqueekspire


Mar 4, 2005, 12:10 PM
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Re: Belaying the second- Reverso or GriGri? [In reply to]
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Hmmm...actually the instructions are very specific about NEVER removing your break hand in autoblock mode.... having said that I do get lazy while taking pictures from the belay and just keep a very loose hand or tie a overhand bite as a backup.

Be safe- set it up correctly and keep an eye on whatever system you are using- the goal is so your second wants to keep climbing with you.


johnhenry


Mar 8, 2005, 3:47 AM
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Registered: Feb 27, 2002
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Re: Belaying the second- Reverso or GriGri? [In reply to]
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I am with Karl too. Grigri plus Reverso for most applications.

Actually, i belayed with a reverso quite a bit by itself. It was rather hard to keep up with a second who was flying up a moderate pitch with my 10.5 Stratros.

One day I took my Grigri along on a five pitch climb with a friend just starting out. I was blown away by how smooth and nice the Gri is for the second. I could eat a sandwhich and read the topo while belaying the cleaner. I have been using it ever since.

With groups of three, you can have the leader on his way, while you are belaying a second on the Grigri.

Click here to see how to incorporate a Grigri into three person big wall technique that leaves the the third man safe and happy:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/articles/index.php?id=63

With both the Grigri and the Reverso, you are very well equipt when things go south. You have two ascenders, a haul device, and a lowering device.

I also agree with Philbox's comments above about Grigri's and trad.

Cheers,
john

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