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sherpaboy


Mar 13, 2005, 3:47 PM
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Coopers Rock Bouldering Guide.  (North_America: United_States: West_Virginia: Bouldering: Morgantown_Region: Coopers_Rock)
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I know Dan just out his online guine into a PDF format. I am finally finishing up my bouldering guide that I put on the back burner a while ago.

I was just going to see what the interest is in a real hard copy bouldering guide. Right now I am up to about (20) 8.5X11 sheets of paper double sided...and trying to keep it down in size for PDF might proove to be hard.

I am inlcuding the latest maps and topos for most of the normal areas from Upper Rock City to the Good Block. As well as some photos. I have well over 100 documents and collected routes...some of which have not been public yet...but I did witnessed some of the FA's.

So what do you think...If you have any info or pictures feel free to let me know or shoort me an e-mail.

And I agree with Dan that it is better to find out if people dislike the idea before making these guides public...just becuase of the heat he and I have taken in the past.

Thanks for your input.
Mike Flack
trails-edge.com


madriver


Mar 13, 2005, 3:58 PM
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Re: Coopers Rock Bouldering Guide. [In reply to]
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Go for it. Coopers is a gem. The more people learn about Coopers, the more it will be recognized for stellar bouldering that makes it world class. The area is untapped as far as potential. The more recognition, the more possibilities for hard problem developement. Anyone that thinks that this is "private stash" "locals place" is dillusional. It's a State Park with major potential to become a Mid Atlantic bouldering destination. Dan has done a super job with his website, keep it coming and good luck. BTW, feel free to use any of my pics on this site, I also have many more.

Bob


dbrayack


Mar 22, 2005, 5:57 AM
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Re: Coopers Rock Bouldering Guide. [In reply to]
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I am still debating whether to publish or to just make available online, what do you people think, My guide is going to be huge, I have just about ever area at Cooper's Rock that I can think off, + some other morgantown areas. The available PDF is probably about half the size of the final copy.

We're probably looking in the neighborhood of 200 pages, including photos.

As soon as the gate opens, I'll be out there putting touches on it "yeah laptop computer for christmas".

If anyone would like to be featured in the guide, I still need to do some photoshoots, I will be around this summer for sure and will devote a good bit of time to the guide. Look for a release date some time around next winter.

Mike, I have been putting thought into this matter since I received your emailed. A joint guide would be a pretty good idea. If you want to provide me with your information, I'll add it into my guide "with proper credit of course"

-Danno

PS and the thing about FAs at Cooper's Rock...they don't exist..someone did them some time a long time ago, so its hard to claim FAs of routes, especially today...


sherpaboy


Mar 22, 2005, 9:00 AM
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Re: Coopers Rock Bouldering Guide. [In reply to]
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Hey Dan,
I'll finish up what I have and see if we can make the joint guide a reality. No offense but I think we each have some better skills at different things...the good news is they are different skills. I have some really nice Topo maps already on the computer, which took me about a year to develop with weekend trips and old guides. I also have started a new way of organizing each area route number to make changes or additions easier later on. I think you have a good grasp on route locations and names at least over for some of the newer areas. You also have more immediate access to the crags, and probably have more route info than I do at this point. I also like some of your photos better than mine :roll:

I think with your route list, and photos, and access - combined with my maps and formating this could be a steller guide. I'll try to finish up what I have started and make a sample copy for you. Shoot me an e-mail with your address, and I'll mail a copy of the format I was thinking for the hard copy version.

Mike


studiggity


Mar 22, 2005, 9:49 AM
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Re: Coopers Rock Bouldering Guide. [In reply to]
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I for one am very excited about a Cooper's Rock hard-copy guide. I would buy it as soon as it became available. I tend to go to Cooper's a few times a year and am slowly learning the area but there is just so much there. I'd really appreciate just knowing what all of the various areas were called so I could at least talk to people back home about what problems are good to get on. Thanks for both of your hard work and I can't wait to get that guide.

Stuart


sherpaboy


Mar 23, 2005, 12:43 PM
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Re: Coopers Rock Bouldering Guide. [In reply to]
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Just a quick example...I made this quickie to show you some of what to expect. Dan and I are working together on this to make it as accurate as possible and help remedie some of the past issues with wrong names etc.

Sorry for the size, keep in mind this was made a few weeks ago, as I was forming the guide. The pages have been re-formatted and edited...this is just an example.

http://www.trails-edge.com/...ring_guide2005_b.pdf

Thanks for the encouragement - FYI to print it out do a print preview and adjsut as needed. It should print out on 8.5"X11" sheets of paper, fold them in half and voila


Mike


studiggity


Mar 23, 2005, 12:59 PM
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That looks awesome. I can't wait.

Stuart


studiggity


Mar 23, 2005, 1:08 PM
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Man it's been a while since I have been to Coopers but some of those grades look pretty stout compared to what I remember. Tomb Raider a V2+? The roof problems V6s? You guys must know way better beta than I do. I'll have to get back out there and see if I am just remembering problems being harder than they are.

Stuart


dbrayack


Mar 23, 2005, 1:31 PM
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Re: Coopers Rock Bouldering Guide. [In reply to]
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We tend to sandbag stuff around here, its just the local ethics and tradition.....we don't think that we're strong enough to boulder V7, so nothing in the park gets V7 etc etc.


dbrayack


Mar 23, 2005, 1:33 PM
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That does look good, im totally in for the joint guide, lets get this thing together!


scottquig


Mar 23, 2005, 1:39 PM
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Re: Coopers Rock Bouldering Guide. [In reply to]
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I'd be interested in a comprehensive guide. Either way you do it, just make sure it gets out to the public!


sherpaboy


Mar 23, 2005, 2:28 PM
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Re: Coopers Rock Bouldering Guide. [In reply to]
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Thanks guys, - That is just a teaser...The Outback and Arete's area maps are pretty nice too. Much more routes are listed from Roadside to the Good Block.

Dan and I are going to collaborate more via e-mail and get this thing hammered out, proof read ( my spelling is horrible :roll:) and get some photos togehter.

More details shortly

Mike


chronicle


Mar 23, 2005, 2:57 PM
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Re: Coopers Rock Bouldering Guide. [In reply to]
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I know Dan took a lot of heat from his site, but I know a lot of people that used it to get around Coopers. A guide would be awesome, and I have 5 people (non rc.com members) that are interested.


rockicemtn


Mar 23, 2005, 3:14 PM
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Re: Coopers Rock Bouldering Guide. [In reply to]
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I live in Pittsburgh, PA and make it down to Coopers often. Without a doubt some of the best bouldering in the area. A guide would be great. Coopers has incredible untapped potential and an actual guide would only help.


vawwyakr


Mar 23, 2005, 4:37 PM
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That's an awesome guide! Really nice quality, you should definately put it out.

Should add a warning about the sandbagging though.


catyswmr


Mar 23, 2005, 5:25 PM
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good heavens guys, just go out and climb. you dont need a guide. just take a walk around im sure youll find plenty to play on.


zmehl


Mar 23, 2005, 5:44 PM
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Re: Coopers Rock Bouldering Guide. [In reply to]
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Not to get off subject here, but I just moved to Morgantown and was wondering how long after a good rain(like today) does it take to dry? Where I used to live you couldn't go bouldering for almost a week after one day of rain. Are there a lot of severe overhangs that stay dry?


dbrayack


Mar 23, 2005, 7:49 PM
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Boy MIke, the format sure does look good!!, and to answer the rainy question, stuff tends to dry really really fast.

-Danno


zmehl


Mar 24, 2005, 6:13 AM
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Awesome, thanks for answering my question. Plus if you ever get that hard copy let me know, I will buy one.


boulderman


Mar 24, 2005, 6:41 AM
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Re: Coopers Rock Bouldering Guide. [In reply to]
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Just a quick comment on your "sandbagging" of grades. I've bouldered there for a few years now and know what the deal is with the grades at Coopers. It has always been a bit sandbagged and that's cool, I don't care. But, if you wish for Coopers to be taken seriously as a world class, Mid Atlantic destination you need to get the grades right. People of all levels like to get on problems that are within their level of climbing. I know this sounds silly, but people want to leave with a tick list of climbs that they can be proud of, as well as with a project that is just beyond their abilities that they can come back for time after time. If a V4 climber gets shut down on a bunch of Coopers V2's then that climber will just walk away in frustration and never come back. He/she as sure as hell won't be back to work that V3 project when they can go to Bishop in the winter and walk all of the V3's.

Remember the V scale is in reference to problems at Hueco Tanks and all new climbs should reflect and relate to that scale within reason. I know all about the style differences, etc. But try to get it close. It shouldn't be the "Coopers Scale" or the "The East Coast Scale". This should be easy to do at Coopers since there isn't a record of a lot of the early ascents. Because no first ascentionist has called it a V? then you all can come up with a consensus. You should also be open to feedback from other experienced non-local climbers. So, if you haven't been outside of your back yard on a ton of V6's or V7's then how do you know that you can't send a V7? Go to Hueco and send ten V7's and then tell us what a V6 is.

I have been out there with a few super strong and one world class boulderer who struggled on one or your V6's... and this just after he sent a legitimate V14 somewhere else a few days before. In fact he never did send that V6. I have seen this very same climb listed on a V11/12 climbers "route log" listed as at least V9 with a comment about the silly grades at Coopers.

Just a thought….. Boulderman


jkarns


Mar 24, 2005, 6:50 AM
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What software did you use to make those layouts?


dbrayack


Mar 24, 2005, 7:37 AM
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Re: Coopers Rock Bouldering Guide. [In reply to]
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Its not about going home with a Big "tick list" its about having fun. Who cares if you fall off what we call a V4? If you like the problem and want to come back and do it, do it.

But note taken, We will try to be a little more fair in regard to route grades, though we are certainly consistent with our sand bag grades.

Just point of curiosity, which V6 were you referring?


madriver


Mar 24, 2005, 7:53 AM
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boulderman makes some good points danno....the future developement of problems...especially grades over V8 will make or break the area as a "destination boulder area".

3 cents


phlsphr


Mar 24, 2005, 8:36 AM
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Re: Coopers Rock Bouldering Guide. [In reply to]
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Are you planning just a bouldering guide, or will you include longer climbs as well? I'm hoping for the later.


dbrayack


Mar 24, 2005, 10:03 AM
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Re: Coopers Rock Bouldering Guide. [In reply to]
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I think "destination area" is exactly what the opponents for the guide don't want....

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