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ftheindoors
Mar 14, 2005, 2:42 PM
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so i just got a rope and plan to run a few top rope routes before i move on to bigger and better rocks. my question is what are the best lengths of webbing that would be good all around?
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tgreene
Mar 14, 2005, 2:58 PM
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Before you DIE, or end up killing somebody else, PLEASE-PLEASE-PLEASE seek training from a skilled and qualified climber before venturing out on your own.
BTW: That's 2 demerits for discussing climbing in the {COMMUNITY} forum...
In here, you're free to discuss anything from the steak dinner that you ate last night, to the consistency in which in departed your body today. :shock:
Tell us all about your sex life, and we'll tell you even more about your partners'. :twisted:
We chat about money, religion and especially politics and have even come to the absolute conclusion that all liberals suck! :mrgreen:
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boulderinemt
Mar 14, 2005, 3:00 PM
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climbing....whats climbing???
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wideguy
Mar 14, 2005, 3:00 PM
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Edit: Excellent advice to follow. Listen to them. 8^)
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macherry
Mar 14, 2005, 3:33 PM
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macherry moved this thread from Community to Beginners.
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overlord
Mar 14, 2005, 3:39 PM
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i really hope youll just use webbing for building anchors. if you climb on it and fall youll most likely unjure yourself. get a dynamic climbing rope, a 10.5mm thick 60m long is generally a good choice for beginners.
and listen to tgreene. get someone skilled to teach you the basics. you just cant learn to climb from the internet or from the books.
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landgolier
Mar 14, 2005, 3:57 PM
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Well, now that we've gotten all of that out of the way, let's maybe move on to answering the question of someone who probably wants to have their own gear so they can be taught by more experienced people without borrowing all of their shit, and then later actually have gear to use once they know how to use it.
3 part answer:
-Webbing seems like a good, cheap alternative to getting static line, but if you have a job, consider ponying up the $100 for a static line to make your anchors with. Much easier, much safer, more durable, usually much faster, and you also have something you can rappel on.
-If you are a real dirtbag and want to do this as cheap as possible, I'd talk to some locals about what it takes to make anchors at the popular spots. There are places where you can be good to go with 3 x 15 footers, and there are places where you might need to have/knot together 2 or 3 x 50' lengths.
-If you want to buy the shit now, go to acmeclimbing.com/pagangear.com, get 100 feet for $25 plus 5 for shipping, and when you go out with your experienced friend who is going to teach you how to set anchors, take good stout pair of scissors, a lighter, and a piece of string or something that you know is 10' long, and make the call based on local conditions/reccomendations. I'd say either 40/30/30, 40/40/20, or 50/25/25 will get you set up. Err on the side of longer, you can always pick up some 10 foot lengths later for $3-4 if you find you've always got 15' in a pile on the ground, but having to string together 10 and 15 foot lengths sucks, can be dangerous, and eats up length in the knots and tails.
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chemicalclimber
Mar 14, 2005, 4:00 PM
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It looks like he already has a rope, he just wants to know what amount of webbing he'll need for the TR setup. And the answer is...it depends. It would help to know how accessable the anchors are from the top. For the actual anchor itself, I like using 2 tripled 24" slings on lockers (for 2 bolt anchors). This way it can easily be extended if there is a sharp edge I don't want the rope on.
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j_ung
Mar 14, 2005, 4:04 PM
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In reply to: i really hope youll just use webbing for building anchors. if you climb on it and fall youll most likely unjure yourself. get a dynamic climbing rope, a 10.5mm thick 60m long is generally a good choice for beginners. and listen to tgreene. get someone skilled to teach you the basics. you just cant learn to climb from the internet or from the books.
Hey O, unjuring yourself sounds like a good thing. "Ouch! I just injured my leg! I'd best see a doctor to get unjured."
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cracklover
Mar 14, 2005, 4:32 PM
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In reply to: so i just got a rope and plan to run a few top rope routes before i move on to bigger and better rocks. my question is what are the best lengths of webbing that would be good all around?
Good question, just asked in the wrong place. The setup you describe is just fine, but only those who know the TR setups in your local area can tell you what lengths are best for the topropeable climbs near you. But as a point of reference, I'll tell you what I did:
In my neck of the woods (around the Boston area) some of the TR climbs can be protected from trees just a few feet from the edge of the cliff, but many of them don't have suitable trees closer than 20 feet away. So what I bought was two 30 foot sections, and three 15 foot sections.
That worked out well for me, and I too did TRing for my first year of climbing.
However, if many of the TRs in your area are either bolted or have trees right near the edge, or require gear placements at the top, that will change the requirements, and you won't need so much webbing. You may need other things (like a rudimentary rack) though.
Hope that was helpful to give you a sense of the parameters.
GO
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bmxer
Mar 14, 2005, 6:03 PM
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I have a webbing question that I can put in this thread.
the owner at my gym tried to sell me two runners for making a top rope, and i remember him talking about the white stitching being universal or something. But in the pictures that's spectra. I've been hearing that nylon is better? With my next paycheck I'm going to buy a couple sewn runners and maybe 50-100' feet of webbing. The webbing I hope to find climb-spec instead of the other kind becuase I heard that this is even stronger. What do you guys think?
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ryan112ryan
Mar 14, 2005, 6:47 PM
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when i started out i found this packege deal on gearexpress, its a good deal, and you'll be able to setup pretty much anything, unless you have to extend your anchor a good distance, but you should be fine. this is assuming you know what your doing
heres the link: http://www.gearexpress.biz/...=G&Product_Code=5442
add a carb or two or somthing like that, to bump it over 50 bucks and get free shipping :) or check out the blow outs section, they have some cheap webbing sections, just get another 30 foot peice
In reply to: I have a webbing question that I can put in this thread. the owner at my gym tried to sell me two runners for making a top rope, and i remember him talking about the white stitching being universal or something. But in the pictures that's spectra. I've been hearing that nylon is better? With my next paycheck I'm going to buy a couple sewn runners and maybe 50-100' feet of webbing. The webbing I hope to find climb-spec instead of the other kind becuase I heard that this is even stronger. What do you guys think?
i wouldn't buy the runners from him, just go for new runners. you have a few differnet options, the "white stiching" im guessing your reffering to Bar Tacks which is a stitch that joins the ends sewing them together. head over to your local climbing store, talk to the people there about what routes your thinking of setting up a top rope up on and theyll help ya figure out what youll need, or just go out to the climb and scope it out, mabye talk to climbers at your gym or at the rock, make sure you know what are doing, go out with someone experienced
-ryan
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landgolier
Mar 14, 2005, 6:59 PM
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That package from gear express is totally sweet for trad or linking to bolts, but if you're just talking about toproping from trees you'd probably be happier with just some long webbing.
In reponse to bmxer, yeah, spectra does usually have white nylon woven into it, but spectra is only for sewn runners. As for normal 1" tubular webbing, climb-spec is not really any stronger than military spec (only about 6% stronger, which basically means it would hold an extended cab pickup rather than a standard cab), the difference is abrasion resistance. Abrasion resistance is hard to measure, but climb spec is allegedly "better" in this regard and does seem to knot better. It does cost a bit more, tho, and not all shops carry it by the foot.
-T
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crimpandgo
Mar 14, 2005, 7:00 PM
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Take it easy on the poor guy/girl. Based on the original post you have no idea what experience level they are really at. Give some benifit of the doubt before you worry them about hurting themselves :)
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bmxer
Mar 14, 2005, 7:32 PM
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ok, so what's the difference between spectra and nylon sewn runners?
Nevermind I used the search feature, here's the answer to my question from a 2003 thread.
"Spectra slings will shock load your placements more than a nylon sling will. The nylon will stretch as it takes the load, spectra will not. Spectra will often fail with a shock load that is below the rated strength of the material. Nylon is cheaper, more flexible, less slipperily, and takes a shock load much better."
... talking about spectra ".1 Stronger
2. Lighter
3. Able to be made into a smaller sling for same strenght as nylon, 8-12mm.
4. More abrasion resistant
5. Retains less water therefore is less likely to freeze during alpine climbing or ice climbing, and nylon tends to freeze quite a bit."
ok im getting nylon, because spectra can melt, and I don't need the strength it offers anyway.
Nylon is cheaper, and ties better.
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ryan112ryan
Mar 14, 2005, 9:22 PM
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In reply to: ok im getting nylon, because spectra can melt, and I don't need the strength it offers anyway. Nylon is cheaper, and ties better.
nylon is cheaper but it will melt to, about the same rate as spectra, mabye quicker. spectra is really nice because if you tie a knot in it, then load it, it will come out real easy, ive seen a guy tie a knot in spectra, hook it to his car and then a car stuck in a ditch, pull the car out and he undid the knot in like 5 seconds, so if you use it in you anchor it can be nice, but it can be bad when you don't want that knot to come undone easily. id get a few spectra but mostly nylon
BTW using the search function will help ya find what you need, and stop ppl from calling you a noob
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shorty
Mar 15, 2005, 5:06 PM
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In reply to: nylon is cheaper but it will melt to, about the same rate as spectra, mabye quicker.
In reply to: spectra is really nice because if you tie a knot in it, then load it, it will come out real easy, ive seen a guy tie a knot in spectra, hook it to his car and then a car stuck in a ditch, pull the car out and he undid the knot in like 5 seconds, so if you use it in you anchor it can be nice, but it can be bad when you don't want that knot to come undone easily.
Spectra is a very slick fiber, thus it does not hold a knot well. The exact reason that the car-pulling knot was so easy to untie after loading is why knotted spectra slings should not be used in climbing anchors. Ever wonder why spectra tape is always sold as a sewn slings? Because the manufacturers know how poorly spectra holds a knot. Nylon does not have this problem, thus it is sold both as sewn slings and in bulk rolls.
In reply to: BTW using the search function will help ya find what you need, and stop ppl from calling you a noob
Please make only make accurate posts to the beginners forum. Someone with limited experience may wish to rely on the "information."
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