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thrmaln
Mar 17, 2005, 6:03 PM
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Hello All,
I posted a question regarding topropes and Stoney Point a week or so ago and receved so much help I thought I would ask another question. When the time comes I plan to go to Stoney with someone to show me the proper ways to set up top ropes. In the meantime, I have been reading books (climbing anchors John Long and Urban rock Stoney point bouldering and Top Roping) I went to stoney last weekend and met a guy (can't remember name maybe Corbin?) and his wife (Makenzie) who were setting up a top rope and I learned a lot from them. He even let me try the route he set up. Extremely nice people and I hope to run into them again. Anybody know them or their email address?
Anyway, the Stoney book mentions the gear listed to enable any climb to be top roped at Stoney. The list is as follows?
Two 50' lengths of 1" webbing
Two 20' lengths of 1" webbing
A small selection of sewn slings for fine tuning
Five Locking Carabiners (any particular shape or size I need?)
#6-#10 Hexcentrics
Set of friends
Two 3/8" bolt hangers with nuts (3/8" & 1/4")
What are the bolt hangers for? I thought you could not add any bolts to Stoney and if you could I am not experienced enough to do so. Are the hangars used for something else in a different way?
As for gear, I found this package at gear express, but I may add more webbing since none are 50'. Is this a good deal. http://www.gearexpress.biz/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=G&Product_Code=5442
Any help will be greatly appreciated,
Marc Webster
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sofakingcool
Mar 17, 2005, 6:09 PM
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Hey
Sometimes , there will be a bolt without a hanger on it . So you will have to add the hanger yourself . I've done it a few times , and I always just leave them there - sometimes they are there when I come back , sometimes not . And in my opinion , I think that list is major overkill . I've managed to very easily top rope anything I've wanted to at Stoney with just one 50 foot piece of static rope for the anchors . I really don't think you need all that webbing and what not ...
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racebannon
Mar 17, 2005, 6:17 PM
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All I have ever used at Stoney Point is
40' of webbing
3 locking biners
3 oval biners
set of wired rocks
They usually have hangers already set up.
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landgolier
Mar 17, 2005, 6:40 PM
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I don't know stoney, but that list would be overkill almost anywhere, unless you want to do some trad later. I'll leave it to the locals to tell you what lengths of software to get, but for the new guy I'd just say get whatever small locking non-oval biners are on sale, and if you buy any protection pieces (nuts, hexes, etc...) you might want to go for a tricam or two as they're pretty versatile and are the easiest thing to put in cracks that run parallel to the cliff edge and open upward (not describing this well but you get the picture), which I find to be a common but difficult-to-expoit feature at clifftops. Maybe someone who knows the area will call BS on that, tho.
-T
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chanceboarder
Mar 17, 2005, 6:40 PM
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for top roping i've got by with about 2 50' lengths of webbing, like 6 locking biners and a set of nuts and a few small to mid size cams. hexes could come in handy there as a cheap alternative to cams. usually just webbing and biners are all you need there. although some friends and i have set high lines there and have used a full set of cams and a lot more webbing for rigging. if you're going to eventually do a lot of top roping there get static line instead of webbing. it will last you longer. i wouldn't bother with hangers and nuts for the bolts at stoney. there aren't too many there that i've seen but the ones i have seen look older then i am and i wouldn't want to trust them with my life. i pulled on out once just using my hands. :shock:
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tadam2000
Mar 17, 2005, 6:55 PM
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What you have listed here is definitely overkill for SP; the list racebannon put together will be sufficient. You definitely won't need a set of Friends there. I think the most I ever took was 2 20' lengths of 1" web, half a dozen 'biners, and about the same number of mid-sized stoppers and hexes.
I also realize that I run the risk here of assuming too much and getting flamed for it, but since discretion is the better part of valor, let me add that it sounds like you're fairly new to climbing. If that's the case (profuse apologies if I'm wrong), knowing how to set up a TR is only half the battle. Make sure you know how to belay properly, and go with someone who knows what they're doing. I took a 12-foot grounder at Stoney back in the 80's when a new belayer screwed up and dropped me. :roll:
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thrmaln
Mar 17, 2005, 7:56 PM
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Hey Guys and Gals,
Thanks for the help. Yes I am new and plan to befriend someone into showing me how to set up the ropes. In my previous post, many experienced people offered to show me when I am ready. I plan to take them up on it when I get the time.
As far as belaying, my freind and I have been going to the boulderdash climbing gym in Thousand Oaks to learn the basics. We took the up rope class and have not had any problems yet. We are new, but we are safe as well. We may swing by stoney after work on Friday to try out some bouldering until it gets dark.
Racebannon mentioned a set of wired rocks. Do you mean the hexcentrics or the wedge shaped type like these or something else? http://www.gearexpress.biz/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=G&Product_Code=2490
Since I do not have any PRO and these are on sale, would these be a good thing for me to get or should I get the hexcentric type mentioned n the book? I still need a rope too! Also, my anchor setting book mentions many types of knots but it assumes I know what they are or how to tie them. Is there a website that shows various knot types related to climbing with diagrams on how to tie them?
Best regards,
Marc Webster
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chanceboarder
Mar 17, 2005, 8:14 PM
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personally i would hold off on buying any actual pro (nut, hexes, cams) for now untill you've gone out with some more experienced people who have gear and can show you how to place is correctly. picking up your own rope, webbing or static line, a handfull of biners is a good way to start. then once you've learned how to build anchors and learned what kind of pro works best out there then you can start building a rack. i know a few people who have sold a lot of their gear that they got at first because they didn't know what kind of pro they really needed or liked.
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racebannon
Mar 17, 2005, 9:04 PM
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Next time you plan to go to Stoney, let me know. I am always up for it, if I'm not working.
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blouderk2
Mar 21, 2005, 5:20 AM
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What you suggested is pretty much overkill. You could set up ANY climb at stoney point with that gear. When i goto stoney I usually bring two 20ft and two 50ft just so I can set up anything there. Also for gear some nuts and hexes and if you have cams that would be great also. Message me sometime I climb at stoney point from time to time.
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fred8785
Jul 5, 2012, 1:20 AM
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Hello everyone,
I know this is an old thread but I had some questions regarding this. I have only been climbing for about 6 months and wanted to start doing some top roping outdoors. I took an anchors and knots class with rei covering natural and fixed protection, and feel comfortable building anchors. I don't however know anything about placing any pro. the stoney point guide mentions lots of climbs needing nuts or cams to use for anchors. Can I get away with just slinging rocks and trees and bolts for anchors at stoney or do most of the top ropes really require some pro?
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fred8785
Jul 9, 2012, 6:55 PM
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Registered: Jan 22, 2012
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anyone?
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