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Best J-Tree Offwidth
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cgranite


Mar 19, 2005, 12:32 AM
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Best J-Tree Offwidth  (North_America: United_States: California: Joshua_Tree_National_Park: _Joshua_Tree_National_Park_Overview_)
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I know it's not something people normally look for, but I have the gear to do it,...and besides, it can really be fun. It's definitely different!

I also know that many cringe when they think off an off-width in Josh, but I have found a lot of varnished granite out there. SO...

What is the cleanest and most continuous off-width in Joshua Tree?

I've done Right Baskerville and plan to do Fisticuffs, but that's not really wide enough. Is there such a route like Fisticuffs, but continues to just over 4 inches and the maybe tapers down to like fist or hands by the top out?

Hopefully not exceeding the size of a #5 C4 Camalot.


salathiel


Mar 19, 2005, 4:25 AM
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Championship Wrestling in Hidden Valley.

B


micronut


Mar 19, 2005, 7:36 AM
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although not very long, hard, or sustained, Damper 5.9, next to pinched rib, has a pretty high grovel factor. i think i only used up to 3.5 camalot on it, but maybe you can get in a #4.


tigerbythetail


Mar 19, 2005, 8:16 AM
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Re: Best J-Tree Offwidth [In reply to]
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This is a link to an old rec.climbing post -

http://groups-beta.google.com/group/rec.climbing/msg/8ec8a62d33ad90db


and contains beta on offwidths from 5.7 - 5.10d.

Enjoy, if that's the right word!


rickvena


Mar 19, 2005, 9:11 AM
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I found Duchess Right (5.7) in Indian Cove to be uh....a challenge? But I suck anyway. Like most things in J Tree, it is not long....maybe 20 ft. But sustained OW.


cgranite


Mar 19, 2005, 4:08 PM
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Thanks

That link is good


cgranite


Mar 19, 2005, 4:44 PM
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From the list I want to check out these routes, but I'm without a guidebook and J-tree climbing.com doesn’t have them. Does anyone recognize these routes?
I usually depend on my friend for the guide, but he's in Smith. I figure I can find a guide in camp, but if any of these are easy to explain directions for,...let me know. I am very aware of the different locations in J-tree.
Oh,...and I'm not buying a guide because that would cut my food funds for the week, and besides it's almost summer.

*Test Pilot*
*Squatter's Right*
Riders on the Storm
Nuclear Waste
Kamakaze

Thanks again for the info


kennycardiscrazy


Mar 19, 2005, 5:32 PM
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Squatters Right WAS AMAZING!!!!!! i did it last weekend. Park at Hemingway and walk to the Iris Wall East Face. It is at the far left of the formation directly to the left of 'alfs arete' Squatters Right is the overhainging dihedral. Scramble up to the base of the climb and enjoy offwidth jamming leading to fist, to hands going over the top. A great climb!! Ask me if you want more.


jaybro


Mar 26, 2005, 3:19 PM
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Maneater, 5.10d can't be beat: easy to find, clean and easy to protect.
if you want soemthing harder, try Comfortably numb,.11 or, the best in the park, Emotional Rescue, 12b.

-"Offwidth climbers make the most technical moves of all.." - Ace Kvale


moof


Mar 26, 2005, 3:47 PM
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I give a strong second to Championship Wrestling, 10a face/fistcrack move to quality 5.8-5.9 wide suffering.

Other favorites by grade:
Bat crack is quality 5.5 kneebar sized chimney to some hand to wide low angle stuff. Most out of breath you'll ever be on a 5.5. Take the #5 big bro if you need to justify the purchase (it'll get placed BEHIND you), or substitute a yellow alien.

Damn Jam, 5.6, but every move is 5.6 squeeze, and the route is 140'. Right in HVCG! Being short would be an advantage on this one, the knee bars are almost all insecure. A #3 big bro and #5+6 tech friends gets the job done, used nothing less than a 0.75 camalot. Save stuff around #2 or #3 camalot size for the belay, or loop natural features. Awesome cave walkoff/downclimb if you find it.

Hex Marks the Poot, 5.7, long approach, do Mental Physics as well to justify the trip. Great hand/fist crack to short wide crux. #3 BB, or a 9" valley cam for the upper part. Low probability of falling out, mainly hard to move up. Running it out ain't too scary.

Flake, 5.8, good wide chimney to a short grovelsome crux, folowed by hand crack gravy, and sketchy slab. Slab can be done as a second pitch if rope drag/weight sketch you out. #5 tech friend or #4.5 camalot protects the crux. #5 old style camalot is perfect to walk with you above that, #6 tech friend can be wedged in for pro, but hard to walk. Panzies can climb the thin face above the chimney instead of following the wide stuff.

Damper, 5.9, someone else mentioned it. Great wide stemming to a crux thin hand crack mantel move thingy. Wide stuff above that felt like JT 5.8, narrows in back, #4 can be readily placed, but is not strictly mandatory.

Tumbling Rainbow, 5.9R OW. Not R. No OW moves really, but take many 3.5-4 pieces, maybe one 4.5. Good route, but loses a star in the upper dihedral, rough and nasty back inside. Anyone know if Locker's foot is OK? I saw him take a good whipper on this and rip a piece on this one. He wasn't sure if his foot was broken or just sprained badly.

Matt's Solo, 5.10a. Not a favorite route. Kitty litter special, but near HVCG. Top rope takes 2 #4.5's and a #5, deep. Singly overhung dihedral, deep hand/fist jams for the first moves off the deck. Wuickly widens to heel toe size. Removing your hat halfway up is mandatory. Wear long sleeves for sure on this one. Leading with all the kitty litter could be spicy, give your belayer goggles and a mop.


grover


Mar 26, 2005, 4:54 PM
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The best OW in J-Tree would be the one you bleed the least on, or most, depending on your expected "fun-to-pain ratio".

Thought "Point of no return" to be rather good. Short yet good.
"Nice and steep and elbow deep" was a blast, considering both the leader and the poor second got dry-heaves 3/4 of the way up. Not a recommended warm-up!


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