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southbayclimber
Mar 22, 2005, 11:15 PM
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I've been to Joshua Tree before, but this year is going to be the first time leading trad. I'm pretty sure my rack will be suffiecient but is there anything specific that I would need for leading moderate routes here? I have: 2+ sets of cams (1 BD, 1 Metolious, a few aliens, + some other extras) 2+ sets of nuts 1 set of hexes and a few tri-cams 16 quickdraws 10 trad draws assorted biners, lockers, webbing, tape, etc.
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csproul
Mar 22, 2005, 11:18 PM
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You've got more than enough. Your problem is more likely going to be deciding what to leave on the ground so you don't carry all of that up every climb.
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jfk
Mar 22, 2005, 11:45 PM
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Bring the hexes. I've found that often times the cracks flare at the top of Jtree formations...it can be a pain to get a cam to sit nicely, but pop a hex a little ways back and you can hang a truck off it. Plus, they're light, so even if they sit in your pack, it's no harm done.
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southbayclimber
Mar 22, 2005, 11:57 PM
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Sounds good, I usually don't take many (if any) hexes, and I'm sure I'll be leaving a lot of gear on the ground, but I didn't want to get there and realize that every climb needs some specialized peice of gear that I could have bought. Thanks, Jason
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jorgle
Mar 22, 2005, 11:57 PM
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In reply to: ...is there anything specific that I would need for leading moderate routes here? No.
In reply to: I have: 16 quickdraws ...I doubt you will need that many. J
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tigerbythetail
Mar 23, 2005, 3:59 AM
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You have plenty of gear, but the trick is in what and how much to take on a climb. Take more than you think you need (it's training weight), but then try and think about what pieces you could have done without. Do the climb again on TR and strive to climb it more fluidly. The trick is to see the gear placements, nail them quickly and then keep moving. Keep in mind that it's always prudent to include gear to 3" for the anchor at Josh. Good luck and safe climbing.
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t-dog
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Mar 23, 2005, 5:04 AM
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lord almighty!!!! With a rack that size, you could get 3 leaders going at the same time in J-Tree!!! Depending on what you're climbing, many climbs are relatively short, and placing 8 pieces of gear is fairly common for a single pitch. Enjoy!!!
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southbayclimber
Mar 23, 2005, 5:12 AM
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In reply to: Keep in mind that it's always prudent to include gear to 3" for the anchor at Josh. Thanks, good advice.
In reply to: lord almighty!!!! With a rack that size, you could get 3 leaders going at the same time in J-Tree!!! Might think about that, I obviously don't take it all up, but its nice to have for longer routes in Yosemite.
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