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joed
Mar 24, 2005, 2:58 AM
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planning a trip to banff/lake louise to climb mostly moderate stuff (5.10)with my teenage daughter. any recommendations on preferable camping areas/sites, must do routes (I have the book), must see sites, etc.
only have a week in july (along with everyone else), so any beta would be much appreciated. never been there, don't know the area.
pms or e-mails welcome.
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cgailey
Mar 24, 2005, 3:26 AM
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I'll be up there in July as well...on my honeymoon, and would love some beta on the good stuff. Any good 5.6-5.8 long trad routes in the area? Are there any guidebooks you all would recommend?
Thanks!
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squishclimber
Mar 24, 2005, 3:33 AM
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There is plenty of camping inBanff, just look it up on the net. The back of the lake (lake Louise) has plenty of good climbing. It is the Rockies so there are hundreds of long routes...thing is they are somewhat loose to extremely loose. There are plenty of guides out there!
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joed
Mar 24, 2005, 6:32 AM
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I understand that there is alot of available camping. But can anyone recommend more desirable locations given that our focus will be on trad/sport climbing? Or just spots that are particularly nice based on your experience?
I do have the Sport Climbs in the Canadian Rockies and Bugaboos climbing books and therefore won't need a guide. But are there routes in the 11a/b and under range that we should absolutely prioritize?
Any other area specific beta for a first time visitor?
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slavetogravity
Mar 24, 2005, 6:49 AM
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If you where thinking of something a little more adventurous, I’d HIGHLY recommend climbing the Grand Sentinel, at Sentinel Pass out side of Lake Louise. It’s 4 pitches @ 5.8 trad, and an absolute blast. Check it out in the route database. If you just want to go craging, then go to the back of the lake at Lake Louise.
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kman
Mar 24, 2005, 6:58 AM
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If you like cragging and like the rock solid and like placing gear then back of the lake at Lake Louise is the stuff you want. There is camping at Lake Louise. If you don't like being bothered by bears there is a camp ground at Lake Louise with and electric fence around it. Tower of Babel at Moraine Lake (just as close as back of the lake) has some moderate multi-pitch climbs on it on solid (have not climbed it but heard it's solid) rock.
If you like not so solid rock then climb any where else. Lot's of good limestone sport around too. Seriously though....check out some of the limestone....there's some wicked climbing to be had around here.
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qpang
Mar 24, 2005, 7:50 AM
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if you want multi-pitch trad routes...climb on Yam, it's not considered world class for nothing. Theres also a pretty cool campsite about 10 minutes from the trailhead....only drawback is the traintracks that go by fairly close.
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ddriver
Mar 24, 2005, 3:58 PM
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I don't have my guides at hand so just going off memory.
Lake Louise has excellent sport climbing on quartzite at a variety of grades, sounds like a good fit for you and the daughter. Some of the routes also take gear so bring a light rack. There isn't any multi-pitch there that I'm aware of. There is good camping between Banff and Lake Louise on the old highway, I think its called the 1A. In particular there's a large campground about 10 miles south of Lake Louise near a waterfall.
There is a lot more for you to climb near Canmore, so you may prefer to stay most of your trip in the campground east of Canmore. There's one within a couple miles of town that's nice but right by the highway so a little noisy. Also lots of heli traffic. There's another campground closer to Yamnuska if memory serves me. You might also do a search on "Kananaskis Country" to find more remote camping south and east of Canmore. The climbing around Canmore is plentiful on limestone, both sport and trad. Cougar Canyon is sport that's close to town and is okay, nothing to get excited about though. There's more sport but I haven't done any of it. There are good easy multi-pitch routes on the Goat formations left of Yam, i.e. Kid Goat etc. You could do an easier route on Yam such as Direttisima, excellent 5.8 climbing. It would probably be the climbing highlight of your trip. Also look at the East End of Rundle (EEOR). There are a handful of clean mostly bolted multi-pitch routes there that are safe. Beware as you move right on EEOR.
Since you only have a week you will be pretty limited. I'll assume you'll be coming in from the east via Calgary. Yamnuska is the first real cliff you'll see on your right. Canmore is the first town after Yam, similar to Estes Park. Its a good place to hang out and supply. You can shower at the RV park in town. There's also a city campground there where you can snag a shower, but its not the most private for camping.
About 15 miles down the highway is Banff. Canmore is on private land, Banff is inside the park. Banff is much more touristed out, more expensive, more everything, and you'd probably do yourself a favor just to keep on driving. If you really just have to see for yourself, go look at the Banff Springs Hotel and the falls in town.
Lake Louise is not much of a town. The hotel at the lake is a very popular stop. There is a nice scenic drive just south of the lake area.
If you have a day to rest and take a scenic drive head north on the Icefields Parkway towards Jasper as far as you can make it. It is tremendous scenery and the farther north you get the fewer people you'll have to deal with. There are campgrounds along the way and a series of huts as well. The Mosquito Creek hostel has a sauna for guests. The only drawback is that you won't have many moderate climbing opportunities, but you won't care either.
The large formation at the turnoff to Radium is Castle Mtn, and there's a well-known moderate route on it called the Brewer's Buttress. I would caution you against taking the daughter up there. Its a long day and the route-finding and loose rock probably aren't what you're looking for.
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joed
Mar 24, 2005, 4:00 PM
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thanks. this is great stuff. exactly what I was hoping for. grand sentinel sounds fabulous. I'm hoping to mix up some cragging with longer adventures. I assume that you're not referring to the more mellow black bear we have here in California, but the real deal. based on experience, would folks recommend we seek out the fenced camping?
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ddriver
Mar 24, 2005, 4:26 PM
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In reply to: I do have the Sport Climbs in the Canadian Rockies and Bugaboos climbing books and therefore won't need a guide.
There are guides for the limestone walls in the area if you want to get off the ground. Stop in one of the book/sport shops in Canmore and take a look. Your sport guide is limited to just that and the Bugs guide will be of no use. You might want to consider Daugherty's alpine guide if you want to get an understanding for the high peaks you'll be seeing out your window, especially if you head up the Icefield Parkway.
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joed
Mar 24, 2005, 4:34 PM
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excellent!
I, perhaps mistakenly, thought squishclimber was referring to the flesh and blood type of guide. The sport climbing guide actually includes trad routes, but as you say it is limited.
your posts have really been helpful.
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olderic
Mar 24, 2005, 4:38 PM
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Any of the National Parks in the Banff-Lake Louise corridor or the Provincial Parks outside Canmore are good camping - more tent caper friendly the public CGs in the US. I don't think any of them are THE climbing hangout especially. The ACC Hut in Canmore and the Lake Louise hostel are more climber centic and not too pricey.
The climbing info has been right on - Back of the Lake is about as senic a sport climbing venue as you could imagine. Grassi Lakes near Canmore is very popular. The other canyons - Heart, Cougar, Carrot are all good. Yam is wonderful but the grades are old style trad = stiff. Even a moderate like Directissima is spicy. The original route on Chinaman's is nice. The bolted multipich things across the road on EEOR have been mentioned and are fun. The Grand Sentinel also has the Cradiac Aeete a 4 pict bolted 10 that is fun.
The Brewers Buttress mention got my interest as I haven't done it but was planning to take MY teenage daughter up it this summer - probably as a two day event.
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ddriver
Mar 24, 2005, 4:41 PM
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The trad guide you should look at is Bow Valley Rock. The Bow Valley is where Canmore is located, as is the Bow River.
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nika
Mar 25, 2005, 11:00 PM
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In reply to: The Brewers Buttress mention got my interest as I haven't done it but was planning to take MY teenage daughter up it this summer - probably as a two day event.
umm by the time we get there this summer i'll be 21...
senile yet?
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kman
Mar 25, 2005, 11:06 PM
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Yes...there is some climbs at the lake with more than 1 pitch and there is lots of trad there too. I wouldn't worry too much about the bears as long as you leave your site clean.
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ddriver
Mar 28, 2005, 2:58 PM
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In reply to: The Brewers Buttress mention got my interest as I haven't done it but was planning to take MY teenage daughter up it this summer - probably as a two day event.
If you and she have experience with that style climbing then definitely go for it. With the 5.6 rating it could lure the uninitiated, hence my warning. It also has a reputation as a clean and classic route, but I think that is in comparison to other routes on the parkway. The routes I've done in the Canmore area were generally cleaner than the Brewers, probably because they're steeper. The line walks the tightwire, with crap rock to either side within 10 or 20 feet the whole way up, but it is fun and airy, there's a nice steep corner or two, and the finish is excellent. The descent is a terrible scree gully that pinches down, so beware anyone above or below. The route is enjoyable and I would probably repeat it, especially if I could find the approach to the lower buttress and link the two, but it does have its share of looseness, so care is required. We looked at the little hut on the ledge. It is more a box than a hut, but definitely a scenic location. Its not bad as a day route by any means.
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olderic
Mar 28, 2005, 3:22 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: The Brewers Buttress mention got my interest as I haven't done it but was planning to take MY teenage daughter up it this summer - probably as a two day event. umm by the time we get there this summer i'll be 21... senile yet?
I don't recall mentioning names - you have a sister who will be 18 next summer....
PS - Thanks for the beta ddriver - we'll see how it goes with some warmups first. I have done my share of iffy Rockies rock but it will be a new experience for Nika.
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nika
Mar 28, 2005, 5:03 PM
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one sister will be 17 and the other will be 35. you should make notes of this since you obviously have no idea how old we are.
btw, this doesn't sound like sport climbing...
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yetanotherdave
Mar 28, 2005, 5:46 PM
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Back of the Lake recommendations (off the top of my head)
Wicked gravity (11a)
Mr Rogers Smokes a Fat One (11b)
DEW Line (11c)
Corner Journey (8)
Air Voyage (10d/11b)
Howard the duck (11b)
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jefferson
Mar 28, 2005, 6:33 PM
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The routes listed above are amazing for sure! But there are lots of the moderates (5.10) you're looking for too. Between gear and sport your week could easily get spent at the Back of the Lake. There is great limestone too...I would recommend Grassi Lakes (just outside Canmore). Camping is easily found..there are the couple sites in Louise and an overflow not far out of town. Bears are no more an issue here than anywhere else...as said before, common sense with your food and you'll be fine. You'll have an amazing time up here! Don't hesitate to e-mail me if you have any other questions.
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joed
Mar 29, 2005, 3:09 AM
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all of your posts continue to be very helpful. I have very little experience posting and have seen some awful threads. But this is exactly what I was hoping for, knowledgeable beta from folks experienced with the area.
Thanks again!
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rispo
Mar 29, 2005, 3:41 AM
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The back of lake louise is a must with mixed sport, trad and sport/trad mixed routes. You can be climbing on moderates and still watch the strong guys/girls sending the hard stuff all in the same area. An all around cool experience.
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cgailey
Mar 30, 2005, 11:13 PM
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Thanks for all the good b guys...sounds like the back of the lake is the place to be.
Are there any less traveled and more out of the way crags that would require an overnight stay in the backcountry? Preferably multiptitch trad in the lower moderate range.
Thanks again.
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