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noeman


Sep 18, 2004, 8:39 AM
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Aid climbing
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I have been practicing my aid climbing c1 c2, but tend to be be very slow (45 minutes for 50 feet 95 degree wall), it seems maybe I am missing something. Would an adjustable daisy or etrier make that big of difference?

Thank you for any information


the_dude


Sep 19, 2004, 12:18 AM
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Re: Aid climbing [In reply to]
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Probably not. learn to place your gear quickly and trust it. Trusting and moving up on a peice quickly is where the most time is saved, IMO.
Cheers


lambone


Sep 19, 2004, 9:17 AM
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I would stick with you're current system and try to refine the bugs that slow you down.

In my experince with them, I don't think fancy adjustable stuff speeds you up....infact quite the opposite...makes it easier to go slower.

If you spending alot of time and energy fighting to get your fifi hook in place, consider getting a Kong adjustable fifi. Thats my current set up...Kong and regular daisies.

Forget the adujstable etries...

Most of the time consumed on lead id spent looking fr good gear placements and fiddling with the rack. With this skill speed comes through knowingyour rack well and how to eyeball different placement sizes and staying organized.

Have fun! With more practice you shoud be able to cut that time in half. Shoot for 1-1.5 hours for a full length pitch. Anylonger then 1.5 on a normal C2 pitch and you are officaly slow and you partner has the right to bitch. :)


noeman


Sep 20, 2004, 11:30 AM
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Re: Aid climbing [In reply to]
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Thank you for the tips.


nrvna963


Sep 20, 2004, 11:37 AM
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I know what would make a difference, dont worry about all that shit and just climb it, and if you cant get it then get off the rock.


Partner holdplease2


Sep 20, 2004, 11:39 AM
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Re: Aid climbing [In reply to]
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Some additional thoughts -

Get as high as you can in your aiders...unless you are on overhanging terrain. Don't let (irrational) fear or lack of technique keep you from stepping high!

IF you can get 8-15 inches higher on the average placement, you can reduce the total NUMBER of times you have to go through the whole sequence...very important.

How do you do this?

Use natural features and Correct Tensioning of your daisy to to stand tall. On vertical terrain, you may find you are actually more secure in your top step with downward tension on your harness than in your second step.

Like lambone said, know your rack and keep it perfectly organized. Don't fall into the trap of just randomly re-recking peices which did not fit the attempted placement...when you arrive at your station, NO re-racking should be required. Just the gear your second cleans from the pitch.

You may already be doing both of these things, I don't know. Just some thoughts. :)

-Kate.


noeman


Sep 20, 2004, 12:12 PM
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Re: Aid climbing [In reply to]
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Thanks Kate, obviously what I need to do is spend a lot more time practicing it until I get a technique that I feel comfortable with, yesterday I took 8 minutes off that time...so I figure another 100 or so laps will help... :lol:


kilgymrats


Mar 23, 2005, 2:38 PM
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In reply to:
I know what would make a difference, dont worry about all that s--- and just climb it, and if you cant get it then get off the rock

What an arrogant ass comment Adam. That's pretty lame man...they were asking a serious question and you had to be a dick. What's up with that? Stay cool man..
~jOsh


skinner


Mar 25, 2005, 12:15 AM
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Re: Aid climbing [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Most of the time consumed on lead id spent looking fr good gear placements and fiddling with the rack. With this skill speed comes through knowingyour rack well and how to eyeball different placement sizes and staying organized.

    On the subject of racking/efficiency/speed... just wondering how you, (lambone & holdplease2) rack your hooks, or if you do?


    deuce4


    Mar 25, 2005, 7:42 AM
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    Sit ups and a strong abdomen help with high stepping--even on overhanging terrain, you should be able to get your waist a few inches above the placement. I like a short loop of supertape tied to my belay loop in my harness, which is perfectly sized to my height and aiders, so when I am in the second step (or better, a sub-step between the first and second steps), I am leveraged well in the system not requiring much stomach muscles to hold me in.

    Hooks: I'll rack the hooks and beaks separately and put them on one of my waist loops on the harness rather than the rack where they get tangled in everything.


    ricardol


    Mar 25, 2005, 2:13 PM
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    practice ... practice ... practice

    1st time i did an aid pitch it took me 4 hours to do about 150'

    .. you've already gotten lots of great advice on this thread ..

    but most of all, practice will make you faster.

    Like lambone i also think an adjustable fifi helps alot .. i also use adjustable daisies.. but for most of the time (specially if its not overhanging) i just leave the adj. fifi's long, and dont mess with them.

    -- ricardo


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