Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention:
overuse injuries
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bler


Mar 29, 2005, 10:47 PM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2004
Posts: 302

overuse injuries
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Well, I've been climbing about a year now.. I definatley climb as much as I can, but the past few months, I've felt my knuckle on my right hand a little stiff and sore after climbing a bunch.. Latley I've been finding myself going easy on crimps for fear of seriously injuring the finger..

but today I got tired of putting this off and decided I should read up a bit on it and see a Dr. to be safe.

So after reading an article on Orthopedics and Sport Climbing
http://www.wemjournal.org/...2&issue=02&page=0100

I think I have an overuse injurie(s) in my knuckle(s), probably cartilage, strain on the joint, something.. I climbed hard and a lot (bouldering comp, then bishop for a week) the past few weeks witch has probably not been the best of things for it and has made me realize that it is something that I need to pay attention to, but I _DO_ have a few weeks here to rest..

ibu, rest, ice, stretching.. anything else you guys can recomend for overuse..

yah, like any injury, the worst part about it is laying low, climbing LESS and staying in shpe in the meantime :(

maybe I'll take up slacklining :)


dyno4life


Mar 30, 2005, 12:58 AM
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Registered: Mar 13, 2005
Posts: 27

Re: overuse injuries [In reply to]
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definetly lay off of using that finger for awhile. I had a similar thing with my elbow, but just ignored it. Now I have to take a month or two off, where before I would have only had to take a week or two. But at least it's just your finger. I would just keep climbing but tape that finger up real good and never use it. That way it builds up your other fingers, and you dont get out of shape or anything. But be sure not to use the finger for anything even the littlest amount of stress wont be good for it. Put vaseline on it or something when you climb so your not tempted to use it.


gochubug


Mar 31, 2005, 4:10 AM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2005
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Re: overuse injuries [In reply to]
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Yeah, that totally sucks :evil:

I have an overuse injury in my shoulder, and even after a cortisone shot it's still there. Not bad enough to sideline me, but bad enough that whenever I crank on that side I hurt it again and have to back off!

This has been going on for nearly 4 months and I'm wondering when or if it's ever going to be normal again. I tried laying off for a couple weeks, and it did no good at all. :(


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