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timpanogos
Jun 28, 2002, 5:23 AM
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Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 935
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Hey aiders - I have 2 sets of nuts, a set of tcu's and a set of ridged friends, 5 regular runners, a daisy chain and 12 quick draws - the cams are all new to me and I want to gain confidence/experience in setting them.
I've seen it written in these formums - just aid it and you'll get experineced fast.
Any thoughts on I could aid some easy 5.6/5.7s or jump into some 5.11 (that I can not freeclimb) and aid it. What other equipment would I need - how might I go about it? With the goal of graining experience with placements for trad being the main thrust.
thanks
Chad
[ This Message was edited by: timpanogos on 2002-06-27 22:23 ]
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rickoldskool
Jun 28, 2002, 8:33 AM
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Registered: Apr 25, 2002
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timpanogos, I wouldn't recommend going out and "aid climbing" for the purpose of learning to place gear. You might survive
The technique that I have used to teach other people, is to toprope a climb. While on TR, practice your placements. Clip slings to them, bounce on them to find out what's good or not.
Quote:...just aid it and you'll get experieneced fast.
I don't think this advice was meant for your particular situation.
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wigglestick
Jun 28, 2002, 1:49 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
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I disagree with you rick. Climbing one pitch of aid is equivalent to climbing 10 pitches of trad. When aiding you have to find a placement that works in order to make upward progress. When free climbing you find the "easy" gear but at some point there will not be easy gear. Although I recommend practicing aid climbing on top rope too. First of all you don't have enough gear to properly protect a pitch of aid and if you are on top rope you can back clean and leap frog gear without putting your self at risk. Also aid climbing takes some practice to learn properly and you don't want your first mistake to be your last as well. Find a route that is too hard for you to free climb but has good gear and set up a top rope and then go to it. John Longs book "Big Walls" is a good place to start as well as reading some information on www.fishproducts.com tech page. There is also a video on the market (which has a cameo by a famous "doctor") which is good for seeing the techniques in action. Hope that helps.
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