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To Solo Or Not to Solo
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climbingkidd


Apr 1, 2005, 2:41 AM
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To Solo Or Not to Solo
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I know you all know what soloing is, but since it has two meanings I'm talking about climbing a route with no rope. Whats everyone think about this? Personally I like to solo as long as you take the necessary precautions, and know your limitations, How 'bout You? :?:


kman


Apr 1, 2005, 2:51 AM
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What precautions??


Partner bouldertom


Apr 1, 2005, 2:57 AM
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As for me, I usually don't relate soloing with sport climbing.


spikeyhair13


Apr 1, 2005, 4:04 AM
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Kman is right, seriously, what precautions ? what can u do to prevent you from falling. after about 25-30 feet that crash pad isnt going to help much.


obe


Apr 1, 2005, 4:47 AM
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I think free-soloing is incredible. I vowed never to do it though,...well, maybe if it is like a 5.3 or 5.4. :D


simplistic


Apr 1, 2005, 5:02 AM
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In reply to:
Kman is right, seriously, what precautions ? what can u do to prevent you from falling. after about 25-30 feet that crash pad isnt going to help much.


I am no soloist, but would submit that any person who does solo, at any grade, would have to ensure that they were solid at the grade and would have to be grounded in their ability to to the point that the possibility of catastrophe, or even the thought of it was, was not present. If a climber has done this, and again I offer this for discussion and do not make any claims myself, then...they have made the neccesary precautions by honestly evaluating their abilities in light of the challenge they choose.


alderak


Apr 1, 2005, 5:09 AM
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precautions..... like using a rope?


seriously though, I can feel the allure... but I'll never sucumb to it because I'd rather climb for the rest of my (long) life than take a chance with immediate gradification.

so little to gain, so much to lose.


karlbaba


Apr 1, 2005, 6:14 AM
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Probably not the best subject for the sport climbing forum but..

When you're driving, you have to trust yourself not to drift into oncoming traffic. When you're walking, you have to trust yourself not to wander into a busy street without looking first.

When you can do a certain climb with that level of confidence, it's probably safe to solo.

Peace

karl


sick_climba


Apr 1, 2005, 8:17 AM
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i love free soloing! i thinkn the best i can do is a high 6 to low 7 tho... but it is so incredible! liek every second could very well be your last if you don't make the right moves! it streaches your mental ability to the max and i think its awesome, even if there is a chance of falling and dieing... i mean as long as you die doing somthing you love right? well thats my additude anyway.


forjoke


Apr 1, 2005, 9:57 AM
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I tried some roped solo and once injuried left knee when falled. I gave up since then. haven't free soloed before, don't want to try, there is always something you cannot control, the price is too high.It is a serious game, someone plays it well, and i respect them.


dbrayack


Apr 1, 2005, 11:33 AM
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I do it, but I get scared, I don't know why I do it really, it just sort of happens.....Maybe it has something to do with my hero being peter croft?

Then again, as Bachar puts it, its darwin's theory, the stupid one's die, I hope that I am not a stupid one......

Of to quote Hannibal Lector, One of my parents was a deep roller, lets hope that both weren't

-Dan


atropine


Apr 1, 2005, 11:42 AM
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I could never stick the overhang at our local - until i tired it solo. The lack of a rope makes you that much more inclined to dig deep & hold on. Also see Güllich on Action Directe. There has to be a point where a calculated risk becomes stupidity tho.

Solo climbing is a bad idea and you will get hurt - so stay in bed instead.


ajkclay


Apr 1, 2005, 1:38 PM
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I look at soloing as being as close to pure climbing as I can get.

No ropes etc., just me, my shoes, chalkbag and the rock.

no chalk, and others would say no shoes, but that's the thing, soloing is really an individual pursuit.>

Sometimes I will onsight solo something because I like the look of the line and it looks like something I can do, while other times I will solo something because it is a favourite route that I have totally wired. The grade does not matter, some are quite easy, others very hard, but the one piece of safety equipment that I always use is the most important one: my brain.

I always try to make sure that I know when to back off (and have an escape plan), test every hold before trusting it 'fully' and don't let the thought of topping out cloud my better judgement; much better to back off with my tail between my legs than to leave in a helicopter. These are all precautions that can be taken, no rope does not equal no safety precautions.

my 2 cents

Adam :)


tradnomad


Apr 1, 2005, 2:17 PM
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In reply to:
I could never stick the overhang at our local - until i tired it solo. The lack of a rope makes you that much more inclined to dig deep & hold on. Also see Güllich on Action Directe. There has to be a point where a calculated risk becomes stupidity tho.

Here's some good advice... if you can't do the route, try it without a rope to motivate you to send!?!? That's a good way to end up dead.

And what does Güllich on Action Directe have to do with soloing?? He definitely never soloed it.


greengoblin


Apr 1, 2005, 3:04 PM
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If there is any doubt in your mind, DO NOT EVER SOLO.


viacontinuum


Apr 1, 2005, 4:21 PM
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some precautions you might be able to take before free soloing... know the route you're going to climb and know it well. bring along some friends, so if you do fall, they can at least call an ambulance. better yet, call the ambulance beforehand, just in case. and last but not least, do it over deep water.

i've considered free soloing before but never done it. i always assumed i'd do it on a route i'd tried before, and knew like the back of my hand. but then the other day i just jumped on this really nice, really easy-looking line, and i think not having the expectation of cruxes helped me climb more relaxed. having said that, it was probably a 5.5, so that also might've been why i was more relaxed.

what do you guys think? would you ever try free soloing a route you didn't know very well, or at all?


viacontinuum


Apr 1, 2005, 4:24 PM
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Some precautions you might be able to take before free soloing: know the route you're going to climb and know it well, bring along some friends so if you do fall they can at least call an ambulance, or better yet, call the ambulance beforehand just in case, and last but not least, do it over deep water.

I've considered free soloing before but never done it. I always assumed I'd do it on a route I'd tried many times, and knew like the back of my hand. But then the other day I just jumped on this really nice, really easy-looking line, and I think not having the expectation of cruxes helped me climb more relaxed. Having said that, it was probably a 5.5, so that also might've been why I was more relaxed.

What do you guys think? Would you ever try free soloing a route you didn't know very well, or at all?

Peace, and happy soloing


gochubug


Apr 1, 2005, 5:06 PM
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It seems like a few free soloists buy the farm every year, even very good ones.

The biggest risk IMO is not so much the climber’s skill coming up short, but such uncontrollable factors as a sudden unexpected rain shower getting everything wet and slick, or a big wind gust coming by just at a critical move.

If you are onsighting a route, how do you know all the holds are solid? All it takes is one unexpected loose hold or falling rock to deep-6 you and your whole future.

It’s fun to watch guys like Bachar and Croft on video, but I for one, am going to leave it to them. Like Spuds MacKenzie said just before the truck flattened him,
“Sh*t happens!” :shock:


nthusiastj


Apr 1, 2005, 5:39 PM
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i im thankin free soloeing is like the pyoorist climbin right? im likin soloing cause its kool. Plus i don't have geer. Am i cool if i solo?


dingus


Apr 1, 2005, 5:42 PM
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That is the question?

DMT


piton


Apr 1, 2005, 7:08 PM
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i never solo! my blowup doll (Cindy) goes everywhere i go.


reprieve


Apr 1, 2005, 7:24 PM
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In reply to:
bring along some friends, so if you do fall, they can at least call an ambulance. better yet, call the ambulance beforehand, just in case.

the next time I solo some 5.7 jug haul I'll be sure to have all my buddies standing around with cell phones in hand...


juprex_z


Apr 1, 2005, 8:31 PM
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thanks with this site


Partner tim


Apr 1, 2005, 8:50 PM
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great fun, provided you don't fall. (totally serious here)


rockmx


Apr 1, 2005, 8:56 PM
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100% personal decision, it’s no wrong o right to solo if it’s something you really want to do.

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