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robbiehirsch
Apr 1, 2005, 10:51 PM
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Hey all,
I've been climbing for about a year now and I'm currently working on redpointing Fear and Loathing III @ Red Rocks which goes at 12a... I was wondering what your first 5.12 was and any things you learned in the process of getting to that level. Were you training pretty hard for a specific climb or did it just happen one day?
- Robbie
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epic_ed
Apr 1, 2005, 10:58 PM
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Mine was an aid route.
Ed
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kman
Apr 1, 2005, 11:20 PM
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In reply to: Mine was an aid route. Ed
LMAO :lol:
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robbiehirsch
Apr 1, 2005, 11:30 PM
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do you mean you aided a 5.12 or you free climbed an aid route that was 5.12 free?
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yetanotherdave
Apr 2, 2005, 12:29 AM
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I have no idea what the first .12 I redpointed was.
I know the first one I flashed was the lower part of heinous cling...
I've never had much patience for working routes, redpointing is more often my second or third try after I screw up an onsight attempt...
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james_climber
Apr 2, 2005, 1:19 AM
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It was very exiting , i just had been thinking in a route and i ask to my friend that i wanted follow him to know the route , and when i was standing right in front of that route and i decided to lead it and then i did it! .
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angry
Apr 2, 2005, 1:48 AM
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I tried lots and lots of them over the years. I almost always got up them but I don't try routes more than a time or two a day, so I didn't redpoint any of them. The first one I redpointed was also the first one I onsighted. Having an on day I guess. It is the Bad Ju-Ju roof in the south platte. It is 30 feet or so of good and bad hands that turns to offwidth at the crux. Two styles I'm not the greatest at, OW and roofs, yet somehow it worked.
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thomasribiere
Apr 2, 2005, 10:13 AM
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after 9 yrs of climbing, I've never climbed a 5.12a but toprope once or twice... so congrats to you anyway :D
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rrrADAM
Apr 2, 2005, 11:06 AM
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Urban Struggle 5.12b in Malibu Creek was my first attempt at leading a .12, as of yet I still haven't gotten it without at least 1 fall. Incinerator 5.12a at Holcomb Valley Pinnacles is another .12 I've tried a few times, and no RP on that one either.
I don't work routes into submission, as I'm more into Onsighting... If I don't get the climb in a couple/few tries, I move on to another climb.
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blowboarder
Apr 3, 2005, 1:22 AM
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I don't remember the first 12 I sent but I remember the first 12 I onsighted.
Sweet Pain at Red Rocks.
Which means it's probably more like 11a. :lol: :lol:
I cruised thru the lower stuff to the crux, clipped the bolt, fiddled around, climbed up and down a couple times to a good but pumpy stance, was basically going to blow it with my normal indecision, when suddenly I hear "GO FOR IT DUDE. SEND IT!"
I look behind me and see Dan Osman and Scott Cosgrove leading a group of about 15 guys (which I found out later were all Navy Seals that they guided on a regular basis) up the canyon.
Dano yells again "SEND IT, YOU CAN DO IT!!".
Figured "Fuck it, I'm not gonna take in front of one of my hero's" and fired the moves to the anchor.
Sent Sunny and Steep (Steep and Sunny?) second try later in the afternoon.
It was a good day for me. :lol:
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robbiehirsch
Apr 3, 2005, 1:27 AM
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nice... what did you think of sweet pain? I was thinking of hitting that route up too... any beta I should know about?
- Robbie
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blowboarder
Apr 3, 2005, 1:35 AM
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In reply to: nice... what did you think of sweet pain? I was thinking of hitting that route up too... any beta I should know about? - Robbie
GO FOR IT! YOU CAN SEND IT!!
DON'T GIVE UP, SEND!!!
:lol: :lol:
Works better when an icon is yelling it at you from the base, but good advice in any situation.
Sweet Pain was, well, sweet. Steep edges to a bouldery move over a small roof, soft for the grade I'm thinking but maybe thats because three days after onsiting it I got my ass handed to me on a bunch of 10's and 11's at Indian Creek. :lol:
I'd say get on it, my buddy took a bunch of whippers on the crux and nothing but air.
Oh yeah, grab the edge of the roof like a lieback (during the crux) with your left hand. Sets you up for the reachy part. Shit, I don't know, that was like 8 years ago or something. :lol:
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robbiehirsch
Apr 3, 2005, 1:38 AM
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Registered: Oct 21, 2004
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nice... well I'll definately get on it! I've had 3 or 4 people tell me that route is awesome and I need to do it!
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fiend
Apr 3, 2005, 1:39 AM
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Hardcore Jollies (5.12a/b) in the Red River Gorge. Euro first try.
It just happened to be my style of climbing at the time (vertical and technical) and I couldn't do any of the steep 5.12 endurance fests.
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robbiehirsch
Apr 3, 2005, 1:42 AM
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euro first try?
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climbhoser
Apr 3, 2005, 2:57 AM
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First .12a I sent was some heinous crap in Boulder Canyon with ridiculously spaced bolts. It was really crimpy and dead vertical and just my style. I toproped it and sent it first try, so I pulled the rope and led it first try. I've never sent it since and still have no idea how I reached the hold at the crux.
After that I've had lifelong battles with .12as and onsighted .12bs like they were .9s. It seems like a lot of it is mood and a lot of it is personal ability with particular styles. I seem to be really horrible at slopey funkness and cracks. I'm exceptional when there are incuts, no matter how small, and somewhere around the dead vertical variety. Slabs spook me and super overhanging routes wear me out until I suss the beta perfectly.
I can take my time when it's dead vertical.
Tips on getting a .12a redpoint is to fear no whipper and just go do it. It's more about beta than actual strength at that level, tho a good base is still mandatory.
ah, hell, what the hell am I talking about...
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sarah
Apr 3, 2005, 3:02 AM
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my first 5.12 was la pistola at foster falls tn. it took 3 tries it was my 2nd year into climbing. other 12s have taken me up to a year to free. anything you work long enough and hard enough you will overcome. train the route
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organic
Apr 3, 2005, 3:22 AM
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Hidden Treasure, 5.12a at Jackson Falls, So. Ill. Took me 4 tries, and one of those I duffed it at the first bolt, I was kind of pissed about that. Anyway it is sweet super technical traverse on crimps and a mono with a clip in the middle of the crux(there really is no other way it could be bolted) and then straight up with more crimps and crappy holds overall a great route.
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hello_heino
Apr 3, 2005, 4:00 AM
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In reply to: I don't remember the first 12 I sent but I remember the first 12 I onsighted. Sweet Pain at Red Rocks. Which means it's probably more like 11a. :lol: :lol: I cruised thru the lower stuff to the crux, clipped the bolt, fiddled around, climbed up and down a couple times to a good but pumpy stance, was basically going to blow it with my normal indecision, when suddenly I hear "GO FOR IT DUDE. SEND IT!" I look behind me and see Dan Osman and Scott Cosgrove leading a group of about 15 guys (which I found out later were all Navy Seals that they guided on a regular basis) up the canyon. Dano yells again "SEND IT, YOU CAN DO IT!!". Figured "f--- it, I'm not gonna take in front of one of my hero's" and fired the moves to the anchor. Sent Sunny and Steep (Steep and Sunny?) second try later in the afternoon. It was a good day for me. :lol:
All respect has been lost now that your spurt climbing antics have been revealed. Cliiping bolts does not count as leading or "ONSIGHTING", you panty waist. And clipping them at Red Rock is even lighter.
Super Topo says hello and Nelson Munz says Ha ha!
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alpinerock
Apr 3, 2005, 7:35 AM
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My first 5.12 was an onsite, it was Pig-pen 512b AF canyon, my feet kicked off 5 feet from the second to last bolt and i was on a two finger pocket, but the adrenaline must have kicked in because not only did i not fall but i found myself making the clip locked off, campus with one hand.
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fiend
Apr 3, 2005, 10:33 PM
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In reply to: euro first try?
A first try is doing it on your first redpoint attempt, Ie: falling on the onsight/flash and then doing it first try.
I believe the term is more commonly used in europe and is often mistaken for an onsight/flash here in N. America.
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robbiehirsch
Apr 3, 2005, 10:54 PM
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Registered: Oct 21, 2004
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ahh got it
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ikefromla
Apr 4, 2005, 12:35 AM
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Dueling Banjos, 5.12a at the Intestinal Wall at the New... worst, most ugly, ridiculous wall in the area, but I had never climbed a 12, i saw one in the guide with 4 bolts, and i went and did it. I was 15 at the time.
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gremlin
Apr 4, 2005, 2:59 AM
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Mine is going to be Tobacco Road at Coliseum Wall in Summersville. Been looking forward to it all winter, the weather/partner situation just hasn't been optimal yet. Huge overhanging jughaul is what the word is, and I've been working cave problems at the local bouldering gym most of the winter to keep in shape. So excited to finally get out there, so very excited...
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nuts_r_us
Apr 4, 2005, 3:18 AM
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The red and pink tagged one. Took me 4 tries to onsight it. I might have put my foot on the blue tagged hold once but I didn't weight it so it should still count.
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