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holdeddie
Apr 3, 2005, 4:14 AM
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I was just woundering what were good books for a newb to read- yes i know that i cant learn to climb from a book but anything that would at least educate me on anchor building and placement , when to use an anchor knots this and that
any feedback is helpful
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crimp2bfree
Apr 3, 2005, 4:19 AM
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John Long's, How to Rock Climb is the best.
Freedom of the Hills is also very good if you are interested in broader education including ice and mountaineering.
John Long's, Climbing Anchors is also a great book once you get into things.
Reading will give you a very good background, I think it helps a lot when experienced climbers teach you things at the crag if you've read the books too.
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blueeyedclimber
Apr 3, 2005, 1:34 PM
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Traditional Lead Climbing: Surviving the Learning Years by Heidi Pesterfield is one of the better ones I have read in addition to those above.
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ajkclay
Apr 3, 2005, 2:47 PM
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The Cat In The Hat.
You will like it friend Holdeddie,
The story's fun
And the rhymes are steady.
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wingnut
Apr 3, 2005, 8:07 PM
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Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills, by Craig Luebben (the guy who invented Big Bros) is a good beginners book.
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knudenoggin
Apr 3, 2005, 8:43 PM
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Outdoor Knots (2004), by Clyde Soles, is a good choice for information about
the making, selection, & use (knotting, managing) of cordage.
(And a Free Shipping item on Amazon.com!)
(-;
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gunksgoer
Apr 3, 2005, 11:29 PM
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lynn hills book is a good read. i read it about 3 years ago and am re reading it as many of the things have more relevance for me now.
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wa_hoo
Apr 4, 2005, 1:53 AM
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"Freedom of the Hills" can't be overrated. I didn't read it until I'd been climbing in the gym for about 6 months. It does an incredible job of explaining all the aspects of climbing and will greatly increase your awareness of the whole picture of climbing outside.
I found this increased awareness of all the aspects of climbing made me better able to determine when I needed to get guiding/instruction and when I was doing okay. I wish I'd read it a lot sooner.
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sub-zero
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Apr 4, 2005, 5:47 PM
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"Freedom of The Hills." I just started reading that and there is a lot of info in there. Not only does it cover the basics it goes through all the slang and different types of climbing. You can find just about everything in there.
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coylec
Apr 5, 2005, 12:05 AM
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Suggested Reading:
Moutaineering: Freedom of the Hills (Mountaineer's Press)
Basic Rockcraft (read the intro, chapters on ethics and style) (Robbins)
Advanced Rockcraft (a little old, but good) (Robbins)
How to Rock Climb (Long)
Advanced Rock CLimbing (Long)
Anchors (Long)
More Anchors (Long)
Medicine: For Mountaineering and Other Wilderness Activities (Wilkerson)
Also, the product manuals for the gear you've already got, plus the current catalogue for Petzl.
Oh, and if you want FREE reading, read EVERYTHING in the "Tech Weenie" section of Fish Products. www.fishproducts.com
coylec
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coylec
Apr 5, 2005, 12:39 AM
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I have fielded this question at least a dozen times on this site. And, while I would usually be rating about using the search button to find "recommended reading", I'm going to let you search for one of my other rants on that topic.
Today's rant topic is about how you (and everyone else who asks that same question) is asking the WRONG question. Figuring out what books to read is the easy part ... in fact, you wouldn't go too wrong by going to amazon, typing in climbing and buying the first four or five books they list. A book is a book is a book, right? They all contain decent information about climbing, but, with a few exceptions, none of them tell you how to read a book about climbing.
There are a variety of things I think you should keep in mind when reading a book about climbing. First, you need to realize that the people writing them are merely other climbers that happen to have THREE things: (1) the ability to form cogent sentences in the english language, (2) the ability to compile their thoughts in a semi-logical fashion and (3) enough credibily to convince a publisher that they worth publishing and know what they are tlaking about. But for numero 3, i'd be published. And, with self-publication, who knows. I know you're response to this paragraph is duh, but people forget that ... these experts aren't extolling the hidden words of the "guide to rockclimbing", they are merely restating what works for them, in some circumstances, at that time. They must all be taken with a grain of salt.
Second, there is not "right" answer in rockclimbing. This is hard to imagine, considering the life-threatening nature of the sport, combined with a long history of mountaineering and outdoorspersonship. You'd think we, as a community, would have developed a technical manual that would dictate the "way" to do something. However, what's "right" in Yosemite is "wrong" in Smith Rock. What "works" in Seneca "fails" at Looking Glass. The local flavor, style, and ethics fade into obscurity when the exposure to climbing is through a nationally published how-to guide. Granted, there are certain principles, such as physics, which are universal, but in most cases, there isn't a "right" answer, merely the "best" one. And, in some circumstances, you have to accept the "least bad" solution. Wisdom is knowing when you have to settle with "least bad" and when you need to keep working for "best". (Yes, those are technically the same, but that's part of the point).
Third, ask questions. I like reading climbing books. I like reading old climbing books. If you want a list of examples of horrible advice, read the first edition of Freedom of the Hills. I don't have it front of me right now, but I know there are multiple examples of the text saying to do "A", but now, we all "know" that "A" is stupid and you should do "B". FOTH is on its 7th edition, How to Climb is on its 4th, et al. Just because its committed to paper doesn't mean its safe.
Fourth, to get utility out of climbing books, you have to be an active reader. If you are reading the section on knots and don't have a heap of rope, cord and webbing with you, odds say you are wasting your time. THere are some people who can learn the same through visualization as through actually doing it, but most people can't. And, I'd say, doing both visualisation and actually doing it will increase comprehension. If you are learning to make a cordalette, you don't need placements in rock, you just need three points. I learned to make a cordalette on shoelace, shoelace, and a sling around coffee table. Just reading how to do it won't help you.
Prime example: I worked at a climbing wall. I spent time reading and practicing escaping the belay (a skill I felt was necessary because we would often have only two people at the wall when two people were climbing (each belayed by a staff member). A staff member who read voraciously, but never practiced, attempted to do it. It took about 8 minutes to get it done, including two slips of the rope. Just for comparison, it took me about 35 seconds. Now, imagine that this was the real thing, not something to pass the time at work? Having just read the instruction on how to escape a belay, could you do it in practice? What about if it was necessary? What if it was your best friend, hanging 75 feet up in the air, limp and lifeless, as the rain fell and you knew you were 4 miles from a trailhead? Or would your brain completely forget that little bit of reading you'd done back when you'd started climbing?
Knowing what to read is important, but knowing how to read it is even more important. Keep in mind that this isn't the holy bible of climbing -- its some person's opinion. You will find contradictory information, you will find debate among the experts. Is the Euro-Death Knot safe? What about the American Death Triangle? What's the best way to rig an anchor on a sport climb? I have my opinion, others have theirs, but you should have your own opinion, founded on your knowledge and experience. Don't trust what Robbins says because he's Robbins, trust what he says because he's told the you reasons why he's right and you believe those reasons.
coylec
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maculated
Apr 5, 2005, 4:49 AM
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I like books.
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jfk
Apr 5, 2005, 5:00 AM
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coylec, great post. keep thinking.
the Mountaineers Handbook has some intersting pionts about fall forces, but isn't too good for a beginner.
john
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