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klaudio75
Apr 5, 2005, 8:54 PM
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Hi everyone... I am new here ...
I have a consultation:
it´s Safety to occupy knots fixed permanent? ... I want to say ... it is possible to trust of the fixed knots if are positions in the rock permanently?
sorry for mi terrible english... i´m from Chile (i speak spanish)
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jbell2355
Apr 5, 2005, 8:57 PM
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Yo no habla el Spanglish!
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urbanfood
Apr 5, 2005, 9:34 PM
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i think what you are asking is "is it safe to use webbing as rap anchors or top rope anchors if they are already in place (someone has already put them there); wrapped around a rock, tree, bolts and secured by some kind of knot?"
the answer is an ABSOLUTE NO. do not trust any kind of found webbing and treat all anchors as suspect. NEVER TRUST one anchor. always back them up.
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blackgoldgator
Apr 5, 2005, 9:45 PM
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In reply to: i think what you are asking is "is it safe to use webbing as rap anchors or top rope anchors if they are already in place (someone has already put them there); wrapped around a rock, tree, bolts and secured by some kind of knot?" the answer is an ABSOLUTE NO. do not trust any kind of found webbing and treat all anchors as suspect. NEVER TRUST one anchor. always back them up.
GOOD TRANSLATION... i would have never got that... and He is absolutley correct!
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shogun
Apr 5, 2005, 10:16 PM
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i actually think he is asking about "fixed nuts" as oppossed to "fixed knots" in which case the answer is "it depends"
-=g=-
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taraus_de_bull
Apr 5, 2005, 10:29 PM
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I was kinda thinking he really meant fixed knots. Like they use in germany, tie a knot in cord and use them as nuts.
if thats the case, i'd say if you how how to place them right they are safe, i've met people who do it, but i'd be careful.
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theledge
Apr 5, 2005, 10:33 PM
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This is almost like verbal sherades (sp?).
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klaudio75
Apr 6, 2005, 1:16 PM
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In reply to: i think what you are asking is "is it safe to use webbing as rap anchors or top rope anchors if they are already in place (someone has already put them there); wrapped around a rock, tree, bolts and secured by some kind of knot?" the answer is an ABSOLUTE NO. do not trust any kind of found webbing and treat all anchors as suspect. NEVER TRUST one anchor. always back them up.
My doubt owes to an affirmation in a web page of mountain that initiate a debate (I attach a part of the text):
"According to what people say, it might be a real highlight among the other areas around, easy to reach and with comparatively good rock.
Don´t be afraid of the jammed knots, you can check them thoroughly and usually trust in, but always carry some ropes (9-11mm) to be able to replace or improve belays.
"
I can trust of the jammed knots??? :roll:
When is it not necessary to use or must not use jammed knots in the rock? :?:
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keithlester
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Apr 6, 2005, 1:39 PM
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troll
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vegastradguy
Apr 6, 2005, 2:02 PM
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not a troll. many rap anchors here in RR have a jammed knot in them as part of the rap anchor....
the thing with a jammed knot is that, like anything else, it needs to be inspected very carefully. because its made of cloth, however, it can be less trustworthy than a regular stopper that has been left as part of the station.
in other words, inspect it carefully, and if theres any doubt in your mind, then either replace it or leave a regular metal stopper as part of the anchor (unless you're in an area that does not allow this...)
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brolloks
Apr 6, 2005, 2:46 PM
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Klaudio,
o preguntale en Espanol, huevon ! Varias personas aqui hablan la lengua.
Aaaah, vamos... Chile.... mie...... !
(Lamentemente yo no puedo ayudar con tu pregunta, porque no tengo experiencia en usar nudos para proteccion.
Saludos
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klaudio75
Apr 6, 2005, 6:55 PM
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In reply to: Klaudio, o preguntale en Espanol, huevon ! Varias personas aqui hablan la lengua. Aaaah, vamos... Chile.... mie...... ! (Lamentemente yo no puedo ayudar con tu pregunta, porque no tengo experiencia en usar nudos para proteccion. Saludos
Gracias...
en realidad mi pregunta tiene relación con el uso de los nudos empotrados en la roca en vez de usar seguros fijos (chapas) u otros seguros móviles como la gran gama de ferretería para empotrar (friends, stopper, clavos, hexagonales, etc.).
Bueno, concretamente, ¿los nudos empotrados permanentemente en la roca son confiables? Y además ¿cuándo no hay que usar nudos empotrados?
Hay fabricantes que indican la resistencias de cuerdas y cordínes, si nos basamos con estos datos, los nudos empotrados tienen un porcentaje de riesgo muy alto.
bye
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jaedward
Jun 1, 2005, 5:53 PM
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use the fucking knots!!!!!
They are bomber, we already rappelled from them, several times
and let me ask you something:
have you ever been to the damn fucking place, or seen any bitching jammed knot?
go there, see and realize how sure they are
en buena
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gat
Jun 1, 2005, 6:06 PM
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In reply to: They are bomber, we already rappelled from them, several times
That's classic. Right along the lines of this true story:
"Does this rope have any life left in it?"
"Sure, I just used it to lower my couch from the third story balcony and it was fine!"
OR (my buddy the truck driver hears this one a lot)
"You know you are overloaded?"
"Don't worry, I overload it all the time and haven't had a problem yet!"
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wjca
Jun 1, 2005, 6:26 PM
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In reply to: use the f---ing knots!!!!! They are bomber, we already rappelled from them, several times and let me ask you something: have you ever been to the damn f---ing place, or seen any b---- jammed knot? go there, see and realize how sure they are en buena
I had no idea Tourettes Syndrome showed up in an afflicted person's writing. Do you randomly cuss out loud for no logical reason, or is it just when you write?
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isaacct
Jun 1, 2005, 6:40 PM
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Klaudio, hace varias semanas iniciaste una discusión sobre el tema en el foro de Escalada en Español.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/topic/85860
Hubo varias respuestas y hay varias discusiones en inglés sobre el tema aqui en rc.com. Porqué no seguimos la discusión ahi?
Isaac
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tradrenn
Jun 1, 2005, 7:32 PM
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ha ha :D :D :D :D :D
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