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cleaning a solo aid traverse
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justus


Apr 6, 2005, 6:57 PM
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Registered: May 8, 2004
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cleaning a solo aid traverse
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So i've soloed a few aid pitches before and i was thinking of doing one in particular which consists of a rising traverse. It got me thinking: were i to be up a few pitches, how would i clean the traverse? I understand how to clean normally, just not the mechanics of rapping traverse-wise or whatever has to happen.


Please help me.


Justus


markanite


Apr 6, 2005, 7:12 PM
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Re: cleaning a solo aid traverse [In reply to]
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I wouldn't start to think I could explain the process well ...

but I do know Hans Florine's speed climbing book goes over this issue in detail.

Mark


guanoboy


Apr 6, 2005, 8:25 PM
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Re: cleaning a solo aid traverse [In reply to]
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I have always rapped my haul line. Once you hit the low point you can yard on the rope to get yourself back to the anchor (if it isn't a long traverse), otherwise you slap your jugs on the haul line and jug back up to your anchor. Cleaning a real traverse requires re-aiding the gear, back-cleaning, and swinging through the hook moves.


ullr


Apr 6, 2005, 9:27 PM
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Re: cleaning a solo aid traverse [In reply to]
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In reply to:
So i've soloed a few aid pitches before and i was thinking of doing one in particular which consists of a rising traverse. It got me thinking: were i to be up a few pitches, how would i clean the traverse? I understand how to clean normally, just not the mechanics of rapping traverse-wise or whatever has to happen.


Please help me.


Justus

Sounds an aweful lot like the third pitch of Moonlight Buttress in Zion. Is that your intention?


justus


Apr 7, 2005, 1:00 PM
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Re: cleaning a solo aid traverse [In reply to]
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Not yet. I was just worried i'd find myself at the end of a traverse one day and have to figure things out on the fly as to how to get my rope back.



Thanks for the responses everyone.


So you aid backwards and clean, or aid backwards and then clean like you would if you're seconding?


Justus


Partner mr8615


Apr 7, 2005, 2:02 PM
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You can trolley yourself across, by fixing your rope at both ends, attaching yourself to the lead (fixed) line and rappelling from the trail line (basically a back up). When you get to the bottom, lower your haul load out, clean the anchor and jug/clean/re-aid the lead line just like you are seconding.

Mark


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