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azrockclimber
Apr 8, 2005, 4:30 PM
Post #26 of 38
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hey ..if you can do it and don't need the first bolt then don't put it there. That means that you are ascending this route (albeit sport) with some style. That means "I" will have to get to the point where I am comfortable going through the crux and then clipping. If I don't then I can't do the route. thats the way it goes. NO WAY SHOULD YOU PUT A BOLT THAT YOU WOULD HAVE TO STICK CLIP if you don't need it. Unless there is a cliff there or something..that you could fall off of.
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azrockclimber
Apr 8, 2005, 4:34 PM
Post #27 of 38
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In reply to: In reply to: Have a bold style come on. If this is a sport route (i.e. you are rap-bolting it, etc), anyone talking about boldness should be ignored. They obviously do not understand sport climbing. Place the bolts the way that protects the route the safest. Stick clipping is standard practice, so if the best way to protect the beginning is with a high, stick-clipped first bolt, do it.
B.S. to this man. okay fine not necessarily a bold style but a style nonetheless. I climb mostly trad but that doesn't mean that I don't believe that there are different "styles to bolting". If I can do the moves without stick clipping..which I almost definitely would not..then someone else can certainly handle it if they want to climb the route. The suggestion you make would be in a basically PANSY style. 10' off the ground..c'mon.
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micronut
Apr 8, 2005, 4:51 PM
Post #28 of 38
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Have a bold style come on. If this is a sport route (i.e. you are rap-bolting it, etc), anyone talking about boldness should be ignored. They obviously do not understand sport climbing. Place the bolts the way that protects the route the safest. Stick clipping is standard practice, so if the best way to protect the beginning is with a high, stick-clipped first bolt, do it. B.S. to this man. The suggestion you make would be in a basically PANSY style. 10' off the ground..c'mon.
az, you don't understand the situation. you're about ten feet up when you start a big sequence, which ends fairly high, with crushing boulders awaiting. falling off is unthinkable. it'll work out, i just want to make it perfect, like the man said.
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fluxus
Apr 8, 2005, 5:00 PM
Post #29 of 38
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There are numberous routes where stick clipping the first bolt is the most common form of ascent. If the route is really hard and there is not at least a dogging bolt in this crux section then you are going to turn people away from the route. I'd say worry only about pragmatic issues, rope handling, the fall, red point clipping and dogging. balance out these issues to make the decision.
peace.
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sub-zero
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Apr 8, 2005, 7:46 PM
Post #30 of 38
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Uh yah...
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jt512
Apr 8, 2005, 7:56 PM
Post #31 of 38
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In reply to: 10ft off the ground? what does the landing look like? if it is a dangerous landing situation, stick clip it. if the landing is flat and could be protected with a bouldering pad, difficult clip just my two cents
Bouldering pads are for bouldering; stick clips are for sport climbing.
-Jay
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t-dog
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Apr 8, 2005, 8:00 PM
Post #32 of 38
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yay, another stick-clip flame-fest/war , woohoo!!!!!!!
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tigerbythetail
Apr 8, 2005, 8:32 PM
Post #33 of 38
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In reply to: NO ROUTES require a stick clip. If you bolt a route in the middle of a crux especially routes harder than 10, that kind of ruins it for the people who don't stick clip! If you cannot clip the bolt don't place it there. Now people are freakin' bolting for stick clips? What is the world coming to.... Have a bold style come on.
You can't be serious...can you? True, no route requires a stick clip, but making the crux of the climb clipping a bolt is retarded, not to mention you'll deck if you blow it. Consider also we are talking a sport route (did you notice the forum this is in?) - so go somewhere else and troll. BTW - you can always skip the stick clips if so inclined and make the route harder, bolder and lamer.
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tigerbythetail
Apr 8, 2005, 8:38 PM
Post #34 of 38
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Jay (micronut) -
I've read your description of the route (your new one at Tattoine no doubt)
In reply to: now to the route itself. it starts with a couple of easy, 4th class almost, moves to a big stance where your feet are roughly 5 feet off the ground, head 10 to 11 feet up. this is where one possible first bolt could be. but then it launches into wierd, off balance moves for four moves before you latch a positve hold with feet, at which time you'd be at groundfall. now let's talk about the landing. there is a huge boulder directly behind the start. falling off and making it is not an option.
If you want to bolt it (no big deal really) why not scramble up the easy bit 5 feet up and then stick clip? That way you'll have the bolt as high as possible and the next one might not need to be too close. Having a low first bolt means having another bolt nearby (and maybe even the third bolt close too) so you don't deck. Sometimes a high first bolt (stick clipped) is the way to go. Good luck whatever your decision and SEND!! (The flowers must be crazy out there right now!)
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powderhound
Apr 8, 2005, 8:50 PM
Post #35 of 38
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In reply to: Bouldering pads are for bouldering; stick clips are for sport climbing. -Jay
Screw that stick clips are for fire wood, If you don't feel comfortable climbing it then leave it alone and come back when you have a bigger set and if not then go to a gym and practice. Don't be afriad run that shit out just put the first bolt beyonnd the crux and add an X to the grade :D
-BFS-
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kpj240789
Apr 8, 2005, 9:09 PM
Post #36 of 38
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In reply to: there is nothing wrong with a stick clip...what is wrong is taking stupid risk. stick clip it or be pretty darn sure you can hold on and clip.
If you can't hold on and clip you shouldn't be on the route. Who ever did it originally obviously could so it's not impossible.
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saskclimber
Apr 8, 2005, 9:57 PM
Post #37 of 38
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In reply to: Screw that stick clips are for fire wood, If you don't feel comfortable climbing it then leave it alone and come back when you have a bigger set... |
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micronut
Apr 12, 2005, 5:39 PM
Post #38 of 38
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update: i think i'm going to place two bolts, one located in the middle of the hard section with a chain draw for a one motion waist clip. this will be used as a first stick clip by those wishing to do it in that style, while a lower bolt will protect the moves up to the hard clip for those who want to do it in that style. it all really just comes down to saving one bolt, as the hard clip will be in roughly the same position as it would be if i went the pure stick clip option.
thanks all for the input,
In reply to: !! The flowers must be crazy out there right now! |
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