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genlock


Jun 30, 2002, 9:57 PM
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Since I've started reading in the aid forum, I'm seeing "hooks, rp's, RUPS, fifi, heads, pins... Can anybody tell me what they are, their uses and how to use them? It might help me to understand a bit.


- Genlock

[ This Message was edited by: genlock on 2002-06-30 22:27 ]


rickoldskool


Jul 1, 2002, 2:09 AM
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genlock, that is no small question. So here is a picture of some "aid" gear.
Aid Trinkets
Ooo! nice photo of a cam hook here,Cam Hook
OK that's all you get. How do you use it all?
There are many posts adressing that, Good Luck! I gotta go to bed.

[ This Message was edited by: rickoldskool on 2002-07-01 02:11 ]


apollodorus


Jul 1, 2002, 2:21 AM
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That stuff you mentioned is mostly used for aid climbing. Aid climbing is when you hang on your gear, instead of grabbing at the rock. It's usually done on steep walls that have small cracks. A FIFI hook is used with a short length of 7mm rope as a tether from your harness to a cam, stopper, pin or bolt. RPs are tiny brass nuts, or microwires. RURPS are small hatchet-like pitons for very small cracks. Pins are pitons. Heads are like nuts or stoppers, except the head is soft enough to smash into a shallow crack with a hammer so it will stick. Hooks are used on small edges to hang from.

Here's a photo of an aid pitch that required hooks, pins and heads:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=5257

[ This Message was edited by: apollodorus on 2002-07-01 02:25 ]


genlock


Jul 1, 2002, 9:58 AM
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thanks for the clarification...


How are RURPs, leeper cam and hooks compared to nut and hexes on supporting a fall?

I understand that leeper cam and rurps are to be placed in cracks, thus making it more reliable than a hook right?

would them be a nice addition to my trad rack?


- Eric


bradhill


Jul 1, 2002, 10:23 AM
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Most of the specialized aid trinkets are pieces of last resort where you can't place a good nut or cam. They're not as strong or secure as traditional free climbing gear. Most often they are only rated to take body-weight placements. Heads and RURPS require a hammer to place, which makes them a heavy addition to your free climbing rack.


RPs (aka micronuts, swedges) are a pretty standard part of a trad rack, though.


apollodorus


Jul 1, 2002, 10:53 AM
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Cam hooks usually fall out as soon as you take your weight off. You could try duct-taping them in place as pro. Regular hooks can be used as pro if you tape them down. You'd have to be pretty desperate, though. They'd be about the same as no pro at all with a small chance of holding a fall.


passthepitonspete


Jul 1, 2002, 11:45 PM
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RURP is an acronym for Realizable Ultimate Reality Piton, and is about the size and thickness of a regular postage stamp.

Place with prayer.


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