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actionfigure
Aug 22, 2004, 2:16 PM
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Registered: Aug 18, 2004
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Learning how to bolt is not something that should be self taught. For example, one Las Vegas local decided he was going to teach himself how to bolt by replacing old bolts at the gallery of all places. First of all, the only things that needed to be replaced there were some chains that were wearing thin. Second, he used glue ins and botched it big time. There is dried glue dripping from the bolts. And one of the bolts that was removed obviously didn't come easily, it's scared up all around the old bolt which I remember as being a little bit of a spinner, but solid placement in general. Please, if you feel the need for glory or some sort of recognition in your local climbing community, learn by spending a little time with a veteran first ascentionist. :idea:
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sed
Aug 22, 2004, 3:13 PM
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Registered: Aug 3, 2003
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Your ranting and raving have a point. i know of quite a few bolts placed or replaced by people without any instruction and i don't want to increase anyone's anxiety level but they are accidents waiting to happen. this is one reason i prefer a bomber piece of trad gear to an unknown bolt.
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james_climber
Aug 22, 2004, 4:28 PM
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Registered: Feb 11, 2004
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In reply to: Your ranting and raving have a point. i know of quite a few bolts placed or replaced by people without any instruction and i don't want to increase anyone's anxiety level but they are accidents waiting to happen. this is one reason i prefer a bomber piece of trad gear to an unknown bolt.
hey i think that we need to do is give some advises at those that u know that are replacing and making a new route
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skymeat
Apr 10, 2005, 6:50 PM
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Registered: Apr 9, 2005
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I'm not exactly new to bolting, but not an expert. I have been playing with my new drill on a few pet rocks out front and have been running into a problem. I'm trying to place 3/8" x 3 3/4" fixe wedge anchors, and the hole is coming out slightly to small, the anchor won't go home, but binds on the sleeves. Would using a sleeve type anchor (like the powers powerbolt) help?
Drill: Bosch 11524
Bit: Milwaukie 3/8" SDS+
Anchor: Fixe 3/8" x 3 3/4"
Rock: Basalt
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slobmonster
Apr 10, 2005, 7:14 PM
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Registered: Jul 28, 2003
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Are you sure your bit is 3/8" ?
Are you sure your hardware is also 3/8" ?
Just double check...
Personally, I've always found wedge bolts to be far easier to place. More intuitive, fewer parts to wrangle themselves loose, that sort of thing.
You do have to tap the bolt in there with a hammer, it should not just slide in on its own...
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asandh
Apr 10, 2005, 7:17 PM
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:)
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skymeat
Apr 10, 2005, 7:29 PM
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Registered: Apr 9, 2005
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I just broke out a pair of calipers and you're right, the sleeve is actually much larger than the bit head by a few thousandths.
I just tried the bit I had in my hand drill which is Bosch made and it was larger.
Problem is the only 10mm I can fins is a Hilti costing WAY more than the 3/8".
Do you know is the sleeve style anchors are slightly undersized, or actually 3/8?
I don't want to skimp on the anchors, but I wold like to pay 3$ for a bit as opposed to 30+$
Thanks
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asandh
Apr 10, 2005, 7:36 PM
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Registered: Nov 13, 2002
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:)
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hosh
Apr 10, 2005, 8:18 PM
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
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Get ready to flame me for this one, but how hard is it to hand set a bolt in granite? Is it actually worth it to hike a powerdrill out for this or will a hand drill work?
hosh.
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rowdyburro
Apr 10, 2005, 8:46 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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a hand drill can take you from a 1/2 hr. to 3 hrs. depending on the length of bolt and the hardness of rock your drilling. I have personally bent bits hand drilling in hard granite. One thing I like about hand drilling, I believe one takes a little more forethought on where and when one will set their bolts. I use a battery testing dropper for a blow tube and a wire gun brush for cleaning the holes. I only bolt near my own crag, and therefore I can take my time. If it takes me a year to set a good route, that's fine cause I can enjoy it for the rest of my life. I have used 12 volt drills in combination with a hand drill. Some day I'll pay for the big gun and really
"Feel the Power."
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skymeat
Apr 10, 2005, 11:43 PM
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Registered: Apr 9, 2005
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I've hand drilled bolts in basalt & granite, usually I averaged about an hour per hole for a 4" x 3/8". I got the power one because I have gotten really tierd of pounding on the thing (good for your forearms though). The power one only weighs about 15lbs, I don't think I'm going to regret lugging it. But I think my hand drill made the holes slightly larger (see above). If you got the cash and want to make more than a few holes I say go for it.
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overlord
Apr 11, 2005, 11:45 AM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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we actually have bolting courses that are conducted by our sport climbing organistion. if you complete one you are enven entitled to free bolting gear. you just need to make a project (not stricly climbing speaking, it can be etiher bolting a new route or replacoing old bolts on an established one), cross your fingers and usually get the gear.
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hosh
Apr 11, 2005, 4:06 PM
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
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thanks, the reason I ask is there's a climbing area that's about a five mile hike and was wondering if it'd be worth it to lug the power drill out there or just bring a hand drill... Thanks!
hosh.
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gladiatoron
Apr 11, 2005, 4:14 PM
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Registered: Feb 7, 2004
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Hmmm...I have been wondering for a while on how to do this. I wasn't about to be a n00b and try without instruction. All this helps me out. Thankz for all the info that has been provided.
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