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raymondjeffrey
Apr 5, 2005, 5:02 PM
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Is Chrimson Crysalis a III or a IV? I'd say it is a solid III.
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numbnut
Apr 6, 2005, 12:27 AM
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III for sure
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vegastradguy
Apr 6, 2005, 12:48 AM
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well, the old urioste guide calls it a IV...but these days it seems that its more like a III, although i'd consider Crimson a bigger day than Frogland (a grade III), but a shorter day than say a route like Black Orpheus (a grade IV).
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noshoesnoshirt
Apr 6, 2005, 12:52 AM
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it's a pile
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thomaskeefer
Apr 6, 2005, 12:56 AM
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no way it is a 4... not long enough and goes reallyt fast since every anchor is bolted..
Try comparing it something like sun ribbon arete (temple crag - IV) or even to Swiss Arete (Grade III)
Fun none the less..
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ricardol
Apr 6, 2005, 1:08 AM
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III
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brianinslc
Apr 7, 2005, 7:35 PM
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In reply to: Is Chrimson Crysalis a III or a IV? I'd say it is a solid III.
I think we started climbing at 7am, topped out at noon, back to the ground by 2pm, car by 4:30 or so.
Climb itself? Probably a grade III. With an approach and egress, was around a 12 hour day. Half a day = grade III? Sounds about right. I'd think we were pretty "average" (whatever that means!).
Brian in SLC
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polarwid
Apr 8, 2005, 1:39 PM
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polarwid moved this thread from Climbing History & Trivia to Trad Climbing.
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slackattack
Apr 8, 2005, 5:19 PM
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III or IV, who cares? Its one $#%*& of good route!
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brutusofwyde
Apr 13, 2005, 12:13 AM
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In reply to: well, the old urioste guide calls it a IV...but these days it seems that its more like a III
Crimson hadn't been over-bolted into submission when the old Urioste guide called it a IV.
When I climbed it the first time, it was definitely a IV.
Long III or short IV now. or a V if you get behind a real slow party of 3.
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flamer
Apr 13, 2005, 1:03 AM
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Call this Spray if you want.....
I rope soloed(free) the route Car to car in 9 and a half hours, and I wasn't trying to move fast. I'd call it low end III.
Don't take anything bigger than a #2 camalot(you might not even need that!) Get up early, Park at oak creek, and haul ass.
josh
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pt
Apr 13, 2005, 1:06 AM
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Routes on the Diamond are Gr IV done in a day. CC isn't even in the same ballpark, I'm with Flamer - low end III.
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vegastradguy
Apr 13, 2005, 5:24 AM
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yes, but the Grade of a route needs to be taken for the average party- and Josh, you dont count- you're twice as fast as most fast parties, and five times as fast as average ones- and when you're rope soloing, you're still two to three times faster than an average party... :roll:
Crimson, for the average party that can lead at or near the grade, is a solid Grade III, without question.
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brutusofwyde
Apr 15, 2005, 3:43 PM
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In reply to: Call this Spray if you want...
OK.
In reply to: I rope soloed(free) the route Car to car in 9 and a half hours, and I wasn't trying to move fast. I'd call it low end III.
Royal Arches has been free-soloed by below-average climbers in 3 hours car-to-car. That makes Crimson 3 times as long as another Grade III. I'd call it a long Grade III.
Heck, Snake Dike has been climbed in 9.5 hours car to car, again by average folks, and it's a Grade III with a much longer approach.
In reply to: Don't take anything bigger than a #2 camalot(you might not even need that!) Get up early, Park at oak creek, and haul ass.
And you still may find yourself behind someone else.
In which case it might be a V.
Is anyone bu me disturbed that the originator of the thread couldn't even spell the route's name correctly?
Brutus
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flamer
Apr 15, 2005, 6:02 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I rope soloed(free) the route Car to car in 9 and a half hours, and I wasn't trying to move fast. I'd call it low end III. Royal Arches has been free-soloed by below-average climbers in 3 hours car-to-car. That makes Crimson 3 times as long as another Grade III. I'd call it a long Grade III. Is anyone bu me disturbed that the originator of the thread couldn't even spell the route's name correctly?
More Spray for you.....
I onsighted Royal Arches CTC WITH A PARTNER in under 3 hours.
Free soloing is obviously different then free-rope-soloing(you know this Brutus!) Basically I climbed the route twice in that time....
Low end III.
Yes alittle disturbed......
josh
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brutusofwyde
Apr 17, 2005, 1:22 AM
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In reply to: I onsighted Royal Arches CTC WITH A PARTNER in under 3 hours. Free soloing is obviously different then free-rope-soloing (you know this Brutus!) Basically I climbed the route twice in that time....
Well my first time up the route it took us 2 hours 45 minutes to top out, but I was carrying a 45-pound pack. CTC was something like 11+ hours, 'cause we made a detour up Crest Jewel on the way down.
High end III. (giggle)
In reply to: Yes alittle disturbed...... josh
OTOH, my "friends" say I'm disturbed, regardless...
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flamer
Apr 17, 2005, 8:14 PM
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In reply to: [we made a detour up Crest Jewel on the way down.
A fine way to "descend" from RA!!
josh
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robman
Apr 21, 2005, 6:34 PM
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supper cool route did it last weekend :lol:
in the real world it's ez grade 3 ...
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ricardol
Apr 22, 2005, 9:26 PM
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gotta love the spray ..
tee hee ..
You can free solo After six in a leisurely 30 minutes .. (i think the record is something like 7 or 8 monutes?) ..
... and i've been on a party that took 5+ hours to climb it
.. grade II? -- nah ..
-- ricardo
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david.yount
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Apr 22, 2005, 10:31 PM
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I suppose I'd put it at Grade III for the average party; solid III.
It's got far more character if you avoid protection bolts except ?P6 and maybe a few of the many on P9. Oh! But you'll certainly want to carry a BD #2 and likley several larger units too.
Besides, those 1/4" or 3/16" rusted bolts on P9 don't look so healthy _and_ there's adequate pro (small stuff, surely).
There are many instances where bolts lure the leader from the nice corner/crack/chimney though safe pro is available in the dominant feature.
david yount.
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