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clovissprout
Apr 18, 2005, 7:30 AM
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Registered: Aug 18, 2004
Posts: 36
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Obviously everyone has their own system that works for them, but how is it generally done? I'm not wanting to do anything where i'm nailing or putting in bashies, just stuff that goes free... but i don't understand how its done. I've read a decent amount of stuff but none of it really spells it out. Lets say i'm in a crack. hanging from (below) a piece i just placed. i pull out my aiders and clip to this piece and stand on them... As a trad leader i place my cam (or other pro) in the direction of expected pull in event of a fall. (downward). If i clip in short and stand in the top of the aiders doesn't that put a horizontal pull on the piece to pull it out? or is my body weight down in the aiders on the piece enough to counter the up or backward force as i move up? Once i'm up, place another piece, when do i clip the rope into either? Any info would be helpful... i just can't seem to find anywhere that REALLY spells it out. Thanks.
sprout
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ammon
Apr 18, 2005, 8:08 AM
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Registered: Feb 27, 2004
Posts: 220
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Well, I'm not going to "spell it out" for you.... but, I do have a few minutes.
A bomber cam in a crack can be pulled out somewhat. I use a fifi (some use adjustable fi's). Your feet/foot is in your aider taking most of the direction of the pro.
Your waist is pulling a bit on the piece (hopefully the spine of the biner) but most of the direction is being pulled downward. Use your legs, they are stronger than your arms. Watch the shift of your fi, if that's what you're using.
On other gear like heads, hooks and sketchy pins..... well, the less outward force... the more likely they are going to hold. But, you can high-step and balance with a minimal outward pull.... on some incredible features.
Get out there and practice above good protection. It's all about getting familiar with it.
Cheers-
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