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studiggity
Apr 15, 2005, 8:17 PM
Post #26 of 34
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Registered: Jan 5, 2004
Posts: 85
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In reply to: i've never used a crash pad in 4yrs of bouldering, never had to. i know people who highball boulder v6s. they dont use crash pads. they also don't fall.
I think you have an interesting approach to bouldering and I'm being serious. I like to boulder because I like to climb things that seem impossible - not things that I know I can climb. I expect to fall tons while I am working on a project and if I don't then I'm not pushing my physical or mental limits. I need that crash pad because hitting the ground does not feel good and I expect to fail many many times before I succede. That is what I enjoy about the activity - if I never fell then I would have no interest in bouldering.
I have heard and read tons of criticism of bouldering in general. Your comments have given me some insight into that criticism. If your approach to climbing was that you should know your limits and never fall then I can see how you can have an amazing time on a multipitch trad line but bouldering couldn't possibly be more than a warmup. I'm not saying bouldering isn't silly but I think what's interesting about it is that its an excellent way to expand your limits.
You should try bumming a pad from someone and spend an entire day trying to climb something that you can't pull yourself off the ground on when you first try it. You might like it.
Stuart
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mazzystr
Apr 15, 2005, 8:38 PM
Post #27 of 34
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 450
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Stuart,
I enjoy all forms of climbing. ice, multipitch, sport, trad.....bouldering. I practise self rescue in the trees out side of my apt. I dont live close to any climbing areas, nearest is 4hours. When I climb, I try and get as much variety as possible. Most people climb in the morning, take a break for lunch...climb for a couple hours in the evening. Not me. i climb from sun up to sun down and somtimes well into the morning hours. I expect that out of my partners. They know when we climb we don't dick around waiting in lines at popular sport areas. one of my partners is 2yrs out from a bone marrow transplant.
Leaders motto The leader must not fall...doesn't mean we don't push the limit. personally, i climb balls out. i climb just as hard bouldering, sport, trad, or ice... it doesn't matter if i'm protected or not. being unprotected just makes you climb that much harder. i can't tell you how many times i've been sketched out, run out, looking at a 40-50-60foot runout, knowing that if i stopped to monkey with gear i would blow...keep pushing...keep climbing, then finally find a good stance to plug gear. thats the old school way. its how 5.11s were climbed in 1960 when there were no stick clips, crash pads, friction shoes....
I'll boulder with ya one day. I don't mind falling and projecting routes. In return I'll drag ya up Seneca Rock *grins*
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studiggity
Apr 15, 2005, 8:46 PM
Post #28 of 34
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Registered: Jan 5, 2004
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In reply to: In return I'll drag ya up Seneca Rock *grins*
I really don't think you want to see me cry all the way up a freakin' 5.6. I may have strong fingers but my head is pathetic. On second thought, perhaps I should take my own advice and try pushing my limits.
Cheers,
Stuart
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mazzystr
Apr 16, 2005, 2:48 AM
Post #29 of 34
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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hahaha! i did the same thing...cried up a 5.4 dihedral!
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g-funk
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Apr 16, 2005, 5:30 AM
Post #30 of 34
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In reply to: the reason i wear i a helmet is because i do mostly boulder by myself and often i find myself 300ft off the deck...
Glad to hear you're ok mate but 300 feet off the deck and that helmet is wearing you for protection, not vice versa.
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cf
Apr 18, 2005, 10:19 AM
Post #31 of 34
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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In reply to: i'm one of those guys who say The leader must never fall and I don't.
Actually, I guess we know that isn't true.
In reply to: i can't tell you how many times i've been sketched out, run out, looking at a 40-50-60 foot runout, knowing that if i stopped to monkey with gear i would blow...keep pushing...keep climbing, then finally find a good stance to plug gear. thats the old school way.
It sounds as though you idealize yourself. Its almost pathetic. Knowing that I put myself in a position to take a 60 foot fall isn't something I would be proud about. Sounds as though your prone to doing stupid shit. Give it time, and eventually you'll slip\pumpout\brakeahold\... and take that fall, and if your trad judgement is as good as your bouldering judgement you'll probally rip out your gear and take a ground fall.
Also if you fall from 300 ft a helmet is worthless. Why can't evolution take over here?
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sbclimber
Apr 18, 2005, 10:46 AM
Post #32 of 34
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Registered: Mar 2, 2003
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In reply to: the reason i wear i a helmet is because i do mostly boulder by myself and often i find myself 300ft off the deck...
That's not bouldering, it's soloing...(Totally different, mentally and physically) I would, however, LOVE to see this 300 foot "boulder" you speak of. Sounds more like a cliff to me. Anyways...
I think somebody mentioned the helmet wering you for protection. It seems somebody knows their Seinfeld stand-up comedy well. (or a random coincidence?) Either way, it's true a helmet wont do sh*t in a 300 foot fall, but it could help from rockfall, (again, not bouldering, say it with me........."sssooooooolllllllllooooooiiiiinnnnnngggggg. Got it?...SOLOING)
Glad you weren't hurt from the mishap, keep climbing hard.
Robbie
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organic
Apr 18, 2005, 12:55 PM
Post #33 of 34
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Registered: Jul 16, 2003
Posts: 2215
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If this isn't T4 it should be rated n00b 15. First off freesoloing 300 feet of 5.0 doesn't make you billy bad ass. Also what route did you get the first ascent on in the gorge? You bagged an FA and yet cannot climb 5.11 trad? This is a sad sad thread. The only accident that seems to have occured is that someone let you climb and the only injury is to my intellect from reading all this.
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mazzystr
Apr 18, 2005, 4:59 PM
Post #34 of 34
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 450
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In reply to: Actually, I guess we know that isn't true.
i've fallen alot less on gear than some topropers and sporties that i've seen.
In reply to: It sounds as though you idealize yourself...
of course. show me a climber that doesn't...
In reply to: Knowing that I put myself in a position to take a 60 foot fall isn't something I would be proud about.
i'm not bragging about it. talk to any trad climber. it just happens and it scares the crap out of you everytime.
In reply to: sounds as though your prone to doing stupid s---. Give it time, and eventually you'll slip\pumpout\brakeahold\...
i hope so. i'd much rather die climbing than wasting away in a hospital bed with ass cancer.
In reply to: and take that fall, and if your trad judgement is as good as your bouldering judgement you'll probally rip out your gear and take a ground fall. Also if you fall from 300 ft a helmet is worthless. Why can't evolution take over here?
don't you have any bolts to go clip? jeesh....
In reply to: That's not bouldering, it's soloing...
i totally agree.
In reply to: First off freesoloing 300 feet of 5.0 doesn't make you billy bad ass.
i never said i was anyone important....
In reply to: Also what route did you get the first ascent on in the gorge? You bagged an FA and yet cannot climb 5.11 trad?
i havent named it nor rated it yet. i'm heading out next week with ynot to verify that it is a FA. my guess is its like a 5.8.
In reply to: This is a sad sad thread. The only accident that seems to have occured is that someone let you climb and the only injury is to my intellect from reading all this.
i'm sorry your intelluct is injured too. maybe you should go climb...
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