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mjroche
Apr 18, 2005, 5:21 PM
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Anyone have suggestions about locations to get some practice aiding/hauling etc. in Colorado. My only experience so far is grabbing gear, but I would like to get some experience. Also, if anyone else wants to get out and practice this, PM me. Thanks
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zozo
Apr 18, 2005, 5:24 PM
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PM on the way.
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euroford
Apr 18, 2005, 9:42 PM
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i'm kind of in a simular situation, we are planning on being in the estes park area in a couple of months and i would like to introduce my partner to aid climbing.
any recomendations on good aid in c2ish range? 2-3 pitches would be good enough.
thanks!
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abisharat
Apr 18, 2005, 9:47 PM
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There's a ton of good clean aid climbs gone free in colorado national monument that would be great 3-4 pitch first-time-aid-climbing climbs.
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mother_sheep
Apr 18, 2005, 9:49 PM
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This is a good route:
http://climbingboulder.com/...triple_exposure.html
I did it about 2 years ago. One time failing miserably, backing off and having my partner finish my lead. Yeah, I jugged it. Then back again for a successful ascent later that year. I'm an aid n00b and this route turned out to be a lot of fun.
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maldaly
Apr 18, 2005, 9:52 PM
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Boulder Canyon: Castle Rock: Country Club Crack (bring a stick for the reachy bolts): Gill Crack
Lumpy Ridge: Little Twin Owls Finger crack-1 pitch: Lot's of good stuff on the Owls.
Mal
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tradklime
Apr 18, 2005, 10:32 PM
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If you are going to practice aid Country Club Crack, be respectful of free climbers. It is an extremely popular free climb. While it does offer great A1 climbing, if you are going to spend half a day on a single pitch there are probably better options.
Another popular practice aid line is Sphinx Crack in the South Platte. Certainly not much of a line to free this one.
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squeakyclimber
Apr 18, 2005, 11:59 PM
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PM sent
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lokiraven
Apr 19, 2005, 1:44 AM
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Count me in, I wanna learn.
Hey zozo, whats your discipline?
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euroford
Apr 19, 2005, 1:53 AM
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In reply to: This is a good route: http://climbingboulder.com/...triple_exposure.html I did it about 2 years ago. One time failing miserably, backing off and having my partner finish my lead. Yeah, I jugged it. Then back again for a successful ascent later that year. I'm an aid n00b and this route turned out to be a lot of fun.
it would be more fun to climb a more 'gear intensive' route for sure, but for a first timmer this really looks like a great aid climb. you can spend more time getting movement down and a little less time sorting gear and being freaked.
awsome, thanks for the recomendation!!
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mikeehartley
Apr 19, 2005, 3:23 PM
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First of all I'm a wimp so factor that into the recommendations below...
Here's a thought or two on Triple Exposure in the Garden of the Gods. I soloed that quite a few times last year. It looks like a straightforward bolt ladder and largely it is. But there are spots where the pins are missing and you'll need to do some VERY high steps, place some techie gear, bang a pin, or do some insecure freeclimbing. I did a lot of C2/3 in other areas last year and I was never as nervous as on TE. Its not that its not a good route but its not necessarily the beginner route it appears to be. The second pitch is pretty spectacular (for the Garden) with great exposure and things like a 1/4" bolt to a cam to a rivet to a 30 year old pin - not a big deal but still exciting for soft sandstone.
A better beginner route is Sphinx Crack in the Platte. Slightly overhanging, good gear, nice little roof - and you probably won't find a line of freeclimbers at the base either. It's easy to break it into two pitches also to work on transitions. The .11a around to the right would probably be good also.
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mother_sheep
Apr 19, 2005, 4:14 PM
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In reply to: First of all I'm a wimp so factor that into the recommendations below... Here's a thought or two on Triple Exposure in the Garden of the Gods. I soloed that quite a few times last year. It looks like a straightforward bolt ladder and largely it is. But there are spots where the pins are missing and you'll need to do some VERY high steps, place some techie gear, bang a pin, or do some insecure freeclimbing. I did a lot of C2/3 in other areas last year and I was never as nervous as on TE. Its not that its not a good route but its not necessarily the beginner route it appears to be. The second pitch is pretty spectacular (for the Garden) with great exposure and things like a 1/4" bolt to a cam to a rivet to a 30 year old pin - not a big deal but still exciting for soft sandstone. A better beginner route is Sphinx Crack in the Platte. Slightly overhanging, good gear, nice little roof - and you probably won't find a line of freeclimbers at the base either. It's easy to break it into two pitches also to work on transitions. The .11a around to the right would probably be good also.
Ah yeah, you're right. Sphinx crack is better. The insecure free climbing that you're talking about, was that on P1? I remember some slabby 5.6ish short sections that I had to climb before reaching a bolt and also some slabby climbing before the 1st placement that was a little sketch for me but aside from that, I don't remember anything else. I placed a couple of copperheads on P1 where the ladder ran out pretty good. Is this where you are talking about?
Sorry to hijack the thread.
Also, my first aid lead was the Gill Crack at Castlerock. The gear was good and there was some trickyness getting to the anchors.
Oh and I'm a whimp too and have not climbed that much aid. But from one green person to another, I'm offering some suggestions to Mike based upon what I experienced as a gumby. :-)
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mjroche
Apr 19, 2005, 4:42 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions. Now I just need to find a partner and enough gear and guts to string some of these up. Sphinx crack in particular sounds really cool, plus, aiding it is the only way I'll ever get off the ground on that mother!!!
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zozo
Apr 19, 2005, 4:46 PM
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Hey Mike,
If a friend of mine let's me borrow his gear when he is in Iraq we will have all the gear we could ever need.
We will talk. Im thinking of Anaconda in the garden.
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mother_sheep
Apr 19, 2005, 4:51 PM
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In reply to: Hey Mike, If a friend of mine let's me borrow his gear when he is in Iraq we will have all the gear we could ever need. We will talk. Im thinking of Anaconda in the garden.
You'll be placing more gear on Anaconda than Triple Exposure. FYI. . .
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mikeehartley
Apr 19, 2005, 5:23 PM
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Triple Exposure thread hijack...
There are three spots on the 1st pitch of TE where bolts are missing. The 1st is about at the 4th bolt. It can be passed with weird .8 or so free or a good large (4") piece in a pothole. The second is about 3 placements higher. You can by-pass it with an ultimate top step (russian aider directly into the pin) to a pin which sticks out of the rock about 3". Very little of it is in the rock. Off of this not very inspiring pin you reach the last missing bolt. You will need to place something manky in the crack to the right to reach the end of the troubles. Its awkward and I'm pretty sure it won't feel like A1. If you fell and the suspect pieces pulled you take a decent ride possibly hitting a small slab below. That's what I found as of last summer anyhow.
Anaconda would be a nice aid climb but its also very popular as a freeclimb. I've always felt too guilty to tie it up aiding. Great freeclimb though.
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zozo
Apr 19, 2005, 5:32 PM
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In reply to: Anaconda would be a nice aid climb but its also very popular as a freeclimb. I've always felt too guilty to tie it up aiding. Great freeclimb though.
Yeah but for practice.........Ive never seen anybody on this route.
I may free the first pitch. The 11D second pitch not so sure :)
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flamer
Apr 19, 2005, 5:45 PM
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In reply to: Boulder Canyon: Castle Rock: Country Club Crack (bring a stick for the reachy bolts)
Come on Malcolm!!
You don't need a stick clip to reach these bolts!!
There's a small rivet(actually a n old chopped bolt) to use to reach the first, then you can easily top step to the secon(I'm only 5'8!).
Country club crack is a very good pratice aid line...
josh
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flamer
Apr 19, 2005, 5:50 PM
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In reply to: I placed a couple of copperheads
You didn't place copperheads....you probably used RP's, which are made out of copper, but there is a HUGE difference between these and copperheads(which you generally can't place in sandstone).
For more paractice aid.....
The Practice aid roof at castle rock.
Anaconda on Twin owls(lumpy)
Or just find a crack line in the 5.11-5.12 range....
josh
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mother_sheep
Apr 19, 2005, 7:11 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I placed a couple of copperheads You didn't place copperheads....you probably used RP's, which are made out of copper, but there is a HUGE difference between these and copperheads(which you generally can't place in sandstone).
Yep. Yer right. Small copper thingy that looked like a small stopper. I know jack about aid.
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tradklime
Apr 19, 2005, 8:34 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: I placed a couple of copperheads You didn't place copperheads....you probably used RP's, which are made out of copper, but there is a HUGE difference between these and copperheads(which you generally can't place in sandstone). Yep. Yer right. Small copper thingy that looked like a small stopper. I know jack about aid.
RP's are made of brass.
They have value in free climbing as well.
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atg200
Apr 19, 2005, 8:37 PM
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yup. i did a double take there trying to figure out how you would get a head to stick in the garden. good practice for jim beyer fisher tower routes i would think :)
its been many years since i have done TE, and it changes from time to time of course, but i just hooked with a talon in the one missing bolt hole that i came across. no big deal.
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mother_sheep
Apr 19, 2005, 8:40 PM
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In reply to: yup. i did a double take there trying to figure out how you would get a head to stick in the garden. good practice for jim beyer fisher tower routes i would think :) its been many years since i have done TE, and it changes from time to time of course, but i just hooked with a talon in the one missing bolt hole that i came across. no big deal.
hehe. . .sorry bout that. :lol:
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flamer
Apr 19, 2005, 9:08 PM
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In reply to: RP's are made of brass. They have value in free climbing as well.
OOps! That's what I meant....thanks for the correction.
Rp's are awesome!! In places like Eldo there are invaluable!!!
josh
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zozo
Apr 19, 2005, 11:45 PM
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In reply to: Hey zozo, whats your discipline?
I think this question threw me? Are you refering to the sig? If so Shoalin Kempo and Krav Maga.
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