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climbhigh2005
Apr 18, 2005, 12:26 AM
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I will be in Boone April 29th-May 1st and was wondering where the best place to climb easy trad was... ?!?? My partner and I just recently got into trad, so we need all the beta possible... we've climbed about 4 climbs on trad... I heard table rock was good? any other suggestions?? and what climbs do you recommend? thanks
peace
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cutiger
Apr 18, 2005, 1:16 AM
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I'd have to say go to the Linville Gorge and check out Table Rock and the Amphitheatre area. At the Amphitheatre there's the Mummy Buttress with the Mummy and the Daddy (5.5 and 5.6 respectively). They're both great multi pitch trad routes. Also in that area is the Prow. I think it is 5.5, I've never climbed it. My .02.
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glyrocks
Apr 18, 2005, 1:32 AM
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About what grades are you looking for? 5.6? 5.9?
There are good easy ones on Table Rock, some 5.7 to 5.9 at Shiprock that are generally pretty good and are much closer to Boone than Table Rock.
If the weather is good that weekend, send me a message and I don't mind giving you some better directions and info or showing some people around.
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kilgymrats
Apr 18, 2005, 1:43 AM
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If your in Boone...Ship Rock is closer than Linville and Edge of a Dream(5.7) and Lost at Sea(5.8) are two nice short trad routes w/ good views and bomber gear. Left of Buffalo Nickle(5.5) on Ship seems easy too..I've never done it..but I don't think it would be too hard. Just some suggestions.
Like everyone said..Table would be good too.
~jOsh
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cjstudent
Apr 18, 2005, 2:34 AM
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Here's my opinion.
Table rock is not all that exciting. But there are some routes there you may want to check out. Its about 1hr from boone. Jim Dandy, Cave Route, and My Route are all like 5.5-5.6 but they are bolted. U might want to put in a trad piece here or there, but i don't. On the good side...these routes are multi pitch and go for about 400 feet. you didnt mention if you want multi pitch or not.
Ship rock is the shinizzle if you want close to boone. 20 min away. like was mentioned, Lost at sea is a nice 5.8, edge of a dream is a classic 5.7, and Borrowed time is a cruxy 5.9 to a easy 5.7 layback. All with BOMBER gear. If you want something taller, Boardwalk is a 180' 5.8...just a touch harder than Lost at Sea in my opinion though.
The Amphiteatre is an awesome climbing place. Very remote, great views. Stellar routes. But there is a downfall. Its pretty remote, and hard to find if you dont know where you are going. The Daddy is an excelent route, 5 pitches of 5.5-5.7 climbing. Its just a hard area to find. Its also 1hr of driving from boone, then about an hour approach/bushwack...and thats if you know where you are going.
So if you are looking for afternoon cragging. Go to Ship Rock. I can give you more beta there than you will ever need to know. I think i am at ship more than i am at class. If you want EASier go to Table and do those semi-sport routes. If you have a whole day and want adventure, go to the Amphiteater.
Like glyrocks said, drop me or him a PM when you are in the area maybe we can show you around. Glyrocks (aka Dylan) is a better climber but im better looking.
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braaaaaaaadley
Apr 18, 2005, 3:04 AM
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In reply to: If your in Boone...Ship Rock is closer than Linville and Edge of a Dream(5.7) and Lost at Sea(5.8) are two nice short trad routes w/ good views and bomber gear. Left of Buffalo Nickle(5.5) on Ship seems easy too..I've never done it..but I don't think it would be too hard. Just some suggestions. Like everyone said..Table would be good too. ~jOsh
Left of buffalo nickle is pretty dirty imo. Best climb either buffalo nickel (runnout off the ground), edge of a dream, or on borrowed time5.9, but only a one move wonder boulder move right off the ground. Anything at table is great also.
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climbhigh2005
Apr 18, 2005, 11:19 AM
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we have only climbed up to 5.7 on trad, but sport around 5.11a... We are up for multi pitch if there is some kind of cable or anchors... thanks so much!!
peace
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joshy8200
Apr 18, 2005, 1:52 PM
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If you've only done a handfull of trad climbs...even though The Mummy and The Daddy are pretty easy I wouldn't suggest these routes to y'all. They're remote and do take a bit of route finding. There are no bolted belays on either of those routes.
Ship Rock is going to be your best bet. Get all the beta you can from CG about the different routes. Borrowed time is a pretty casual route (if you're sporting 11a the 'cruxy' 5.9 move at the bottom isn't going to give y'all any kind of problem). Hindu Kush is a pretty wild 5.8. I don't know if I would suggest it if you don't feel solid at the grade. You have to make this crazy, exposed mantle move up onto a diving board ledge.
There's also a couple of routes that can be top roped toward the top of the trail. Anguish of Captain Bligh (5.11) and Harpoon (sweet crack 5.10a) can both be accessed from the top. They'd be a lot of fun to work.
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glyrocks
Apr 18, 2005, 2:06 PM
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In reply to: Glyrocks (aka Dylan) is a better climber but im better looking.
Hah, I'm hardly a better climber, but I'm certainly better looking. You've never seen me flex, have you?
--
Sounds like you guys should stick to Ship Rock. It really is a cool place to climb and there is a good number of routes around your trad level and a few harder ones to top-rope
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bumblie
Apr 18, 2005, 3:32 PM
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The downside for Ship is it may be pretty cold. Most of the routes don't get sun until the afternoon. It's quite possible to have a steady breeze with temps in the 50s.
If you do go to Ship, I recommend Boardwalk (5.8). Take plenty of long runners.
Table Rock offers some excellent 5.8 trad.
True Grit/White Lightening(5.8) 2 pitches. Double rope rap or finish on North Ridge.
Second Stanza(5.8) - 3 pitches. the crux is supposedly 5.9-, but it's one move and well protected.
Cracker Jack (5.8)
If you intend to top out on Table Rock (the views are worth the effort), leave your packs at the base but take shoes for the walk back down.
The Mummy and the Daddy are both great climbs, worth the hike. Unfortunately, they tend to be crowded.
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joshy8200
Apr 18, 2005, 6:55 PM
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Blumblie makes a good point about the weather at Ship Rock. Check the temperatures for Boone and think at least a couple of degrees cooler at Ship Rock.
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gasdr
Apr 19, 2005, 12:57 AM
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Shortoff Mtn, south of Table rock is great. It's not crowded but it's is a little difficult to get to and a strenuous but relatively short hike straight up the mountain. Maginot Line (a classic) and Paradise Alley are 5.7 and 5.8 resp.
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kilgymrats
Apr 19, 2005, 8:26 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Glyrocks (aka Dylan) is a better climber but im better looking. Hah, I'm hardly a better climber, but I'm certainly better looking. You've never seen me flex, have you?
Well...they're both gay and climb like cream puffs (meow!)...so you don't have to worry...they're not hitting on you.
Haha...gotcha'
~jOsh
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climbhigh2005
Apr 27, 2005, 6:52 PM
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well I leave in 2 days and Im not sure where to go yet... any more advice??
thanks
peace
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noell
Apr 27, 2005, 8:07 PM
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Go to Ship rock. Easiest approach, fairly easy to find routes, has some nice single pitch trad lines and the ability to TR some harder stuff, don't need to bush wack or hike really far if you find out it's not the place for you. AND if you don't find something you really like, or want to vary your days, you can always pick one of the awesome bouldering spots to visit nearby for an afternoon.
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cjstudent
Apr 27, 2005, 8:11 PM
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Noell, wen are you coming back to boone????
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climbhigh2005
Apr 28, 2005, 11:13 AM
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What about Table Rock?? How is the approach to it?
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bumblie
Apr 28, 2005, 12:01 PM
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Table Rock is a moderate approach. The first 100 yards is the only aerobic(sp?) section. If the climbing there is to your liking, I'd go with it. Sunny and 60 seems like perfect conditions.
If the forecast is correct, I still think climbing at Ship will be cold.
The approach to the Daddy is long but easy. If you do want to climb it, I'd recommend you check out the flatliners website. It has good directions for getting to the base of the climb.
If you want specifics on routes, drop me a PM.
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jon
Apr 28, 2005, 1:29 PM
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hate to tell you Bumblie that ship really isn't that cold of a place. many of us climb there through the winter - temps in the 50s or 60s = great climbing there.
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bumblie
Apr 28, 2005, 1:40 PM
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I stand corrected.
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noell
Apr 28, 2005, 1:44 PM
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Boone is calling for a high of 68 and wind/possible showers/storms on Saturday, and highs in the low 60's on Sunday. Too cold? Nah! I climb in pretty much any weather, just find the most sun that I can if it's chilly out.
I guess I suggest Ship b/c I know that it's less of an investment, if the weather does turn out rainy/windy. They can easily and quickly find the cliff, easily identify routes, easily head into Boone or boulder if the weather or whatever isn't to their liking. And if they have questions, there will most likely be other people around.
Just my opinion. :roll:
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noell
Apr 28, 2005, 1:46 PM
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Oh yea, when am I headed back to Boone? I was up there bouldering some this winter. Perhaps this summer once the New is way to hot and humid I might make a few trips up to Ship for some trad. It'll be a little while though!
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bumblie
May 3, 2005, 11:29 AM
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Rumor has it, the conditions were entirely too cold at Ship on Sunday. :roll: :roll: :roll:
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cjstudent
May 3, 2005, 12:31 PM
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In reply to: Rumor has it, the conditions were entirely too cold at Ship on Sunday. :roll: :roll: :roll:
It wasn't entirely too cold, the wind was blowing entirely too hard. I went up there in the morning around 10 or so, and the wind was blowing at least 30mph. I wasn't about to go to Table rock or the Linville Gorge since I excpected the wind to be bad there too. So we went to The Dump and did some sport routes for a few hours, then went back up to ship later in the day when the wind had died down and had a perfect finish of the day. It was only cold when a few wind gusts blew by, other than that...afternoons on ship are usually in the sun.
(but then again, I live in boone, and climbed there every month through this winter, so my perception of pleasant days at ship might be off)
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