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iceisnice
Apr 19, 2005, 5:16 PM
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is the only decent off of the cat in the hat route in red rocks the double rope rappel? i'm gonna solo the route this week and didn't want to carry much of anything with me, just wondering if there is a possible walk off or rappel that can be done with a single rope. if not, i'll probably just downclimb the route.
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flamer
Apr 19, 2005, 5:32 PM
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You can climb all the way to the top of the Mescalito with maybe one more pitch of 5.6?(maybe 5.7I'll have to check) then walk off into the north fork of pine creek.
This wouldn't be a very good route to down climb, or solo at all really.
WAY to many people...most of whom are gumbies....on the route.
josh
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asandh
Apr 19, 2005, 5:39 PM
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:)
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jfk
Apr 19, 2005, 5:43 PM
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I would think that asking for descent beta is not bragging...it's simply a sensible way to avoid killing yourself on an otherwise moderate route.
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flamer
Apr 19, 2005, 5:52 PM
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In reply to: I don't think Peter Croft ever Bragged to the entire world about a "planned" solo ascent. If you're not doing it "Totally" for yourself, you're doing it for the wrong reason.
STFU
josh
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trevzilla
Apr 19, 2005, 5:59 PM
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What does STFU mean?
Also, I wouldn't plan on downclimbing that one either. I've never done it without running into people climbing when I want to rappell down. Hence, you'd probably run into a group when you were downclimbing. Either way, Have fun!
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bandycoot
Apr 19, 2005, 6:02 PM
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If you're going to FREE solo it then just bring a harness and see if you can bum a ride down with some other climbers. It's a popular climb right?
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asandh
Apr 19, 2005, 6:02 PM
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:)
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kungfuclimber
Apr 19, 2005, 6:28 PM
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Get there early. When I was there I saw at least 5 other parties on the climb. And all the raps are directly on the climb. Unless you like getting whipped by ropes as you solo, go early.
As for the walkoff I got conflicting info on that one. Some people told me its a bunch of 4th class and a pitch of 5.7, some other person told me it was another 6-7 pitches with some loose stuff.
Make the call thats right for you.
cheers
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jon06
Apr 19, 2005, 6:29 PM
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My guid book says that the "walk off" that flamer mentioned requires several long repels and they describe it as "infamous"?!?
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tradnomad
Apr 19, 2005, 6:31 PM
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In reply to: What does STFU mean?
Google says...
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iceisnice
Apr 19, 2005, 6:41 PM
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thanks for the info. i'll give the "walk off" descent a try since it sounds like the regular descent could be a cluster f!@!#$. if it turns out to be an adventure then it wil just be even more fun, lol.
bragging? i guess it is possible for anyone to make something from nothing. i solo because i enjoy it. i asked about the decsent cuz i didn't want to carry 2 ropes on a solo climb. i felt the need to mention it was a solo because i knew i would get a bunch of people telling me to just take the normal descent route. do you honestly think that peter croft never mentioned his solos before he did them? he planned them all my friend, and he got beta for them all. its not something you just wake up in the morning and go do. peter croft is amazing (personally, i feel he is one of the greatest climbers of our time), but he still got information (through his own research or from others) before he did the climb. my question on this subject wasn't bragging, but you may want to ask yourself why you got so defensive on the subject.
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flamer
Apr 19, 2005, 6:49 PM
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In reply to: My guid book says that the "walk off" that flamer mentioned requires several long repels and they describe it as "infamous"?!?
I just double checked an invaluable resource...Red Rock Odyssey(Larry Deangelo and Bill Thiry 2004)
You will need at least one rope to descend off the back....supposedly there is a way to do it without a rope, but nobody I know has been able to find it.
The final crux pitch is listed as 5.5-5.7, it appears to depend on how you do it.
josh
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iceisnice
Apr 19, 2005, 6:53 PM
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flamer, thanks for the info. i'll try and get an early start to beat the crowds, lol.
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jsj42
Apr 19, 2005, 7:03 PM
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I've thought a lot about this one myself and here's my opinion on the matter. I'll take the road less taken and suggest down-climbing it, that is, if you can't borrow a ride on someone else's rappels.
I haven't done the walkoff, but it certainly doesn't look trivial - quite a bit more climbing and scrambling to the summit of the Mescalito.
I've been tossing the idea around of a MHA solo linkup that would include this climb - this happens to be the only one that requires a cord for the rappels (and two nonetheless - a 70 won't do it) - which makes it rather inconvenient for a quick solo. The climbing is all super positive though, and it would be easy to down climb.
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asandh
Apr 19, 2005, 7:22 PM
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:)
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megableem
Apr 19, 2005, 7:27 PM
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.
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jsj42
Apr 19, 2005, 7:38 PM
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In reply to: I'm not against soloing, I just think lots of young climbers (don't know how old you are) do it for the wrong motivations. Its a personal inner thing, not a public thing .... which is exactly what this forum thread has made it for you.
Who are you to tell someone what the motivations for soloing are? Or for climbing in general? Derek Hersey himself has said that he loves that climbing has no rules. The fact is climbing is selfish. This guy can solo, or do any kind of climbing he wants for that matter, for whatever reasons he wants. Then you go and insinuate that young climbers are wrong in their motivations... Derek was young. So is Tim Kemple and other bold climbers. Just because your belief system concerning climbing is different doesn't mean his is wrong.
Explain to me what a good motivation for soloing is? Say iceisnice only solos to stoke his ego through the recognition of the web surfers who read this thread (which by my interpretation of the original post seems highly doubtful). Is that motivation somehow more wrong than your motivation to go climbing? Afterall, you could be using your time and money in more constructive ways than climbing. Maybe ALL climbers are wrong in their motivations.
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asandh
Apr 19, 2005, 7:49 PM
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:)
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jsj42
Apr 19, 2005, 7:55 PM
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So now I'm a mental twelve year old because I don't agree with you? And I suppose you've ascended to a new level of enlightenment because you are building upon 1 million years of human psychology?
You could just be straightforward and say what you believe: That you hate to see people needlessly risk their lives and die soloing, or that you hate to see blood and guts on the climbs you want to do.
This might be a better approach than claiming others have poor motivations and effectively assuming the role of a moral judge over your fellow climbers.
Iceisnice just wanted to know how to get down from Cat in the Hat, and he explained that he was soloing so he wouldn't get the usual "duh, you rap the route" response. Jeez.
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vegastradguy
Apr 19, 2005, 8:05 PM
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for those who care:
there is a ropeless, 3rd class descent off Mescalito via the north side- i recently did the descent with Larry DeAngelo after topping out on Deep Space. the key is to stay high and keep following the slabs, which eventually work their way down into the canyon just past a large waterfall on the north side.
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asandh
Apr 19, 2005, 8:09 PM
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:)
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lucander
Apr 19, 2005, 8:18 PM
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My partner and I got in a fight on top of the Mescalito about how to get off that ended up in us cursing "Sacry Larry and his Rack of Antiquities". We made it, the climb was great, and there was no chalk on holds above where most parties rap off. All told, it was a great adventure. The point is: getting off the "Gato" (Cat) could be long.
David
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flamer
Apr 19, 2005, 9:14 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I'm not against soloing, I just think lots of young climbers (don't know how old you are) do it for the wrong motivations. Its a personal inner thing, not a public thing .... which is exactly what this forum thread has made it for you. Who are you to tell someone what the motivations for soloing are? Or for climbing in general? Derek Hersey himself has said that he loves that climbing has no rules. The fact is climbing is selfish. This guy can solo, or do any kind of climbing he wants for that matter, for whatever reasons he wants. Then you go and insinuate that young climbers are wrong in their motivations... Derek was young. So is Tim Kemple and other bold climbers. Just because your belief system concerning climbing is different doesn't mean his is wrong. Explain to me what a good motivation for soloing is? Say iceisnice only solos to stoke his ego through the recognition of the web surfers who read this thread (which by my interpretation of the original post seems highly doubtful). Is that motivation somehow more wrong than your motivation to go climbing? Afterall, you could be using your time and money in more constructive ways than climbing. Maybe ALL climbers are wrong in their motivations.
Well said....glad you typed it out...all i had the motivation for was a STFU!!!
Also what is an "MHA LINKUP"?
josh
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asandh
Apr 19, 2005, 9:44 PM
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:)
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