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ubotch
Apr 25, 2005, 4:08 AM
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Registered: Jul 19, 2002
Posts: 191
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I was just reading about the climbing death on Walk on the Wild Side in December. This is a route I was planning on doing soon. Now I am a little worried. The rating does not worry me at all but it sounds like route finding could be an issue. I am a solid 5.9 trad leader (I know WOWS is bolted but not exactly sport) so I can handle a run-out 5.7 as long as I don't wander onto a .12 or something. My question is, should I be worried or is it easy enough to stay on route? I will be wearing a helmet.
Also I think I read somewhere that I should just skip pitch 3. Is it worth doing?
Thanks for your tips.
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halepierce
Apr 25, 2005, 5:04 AM
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Registered: Apr 26, 2003
Posts: 38
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I did the route for the first time a few months ago and found it to be safe. However, care should be taken getting to the second bolt as it's a bit runout (although not the crux).
I found the route-finding not an issue. You can scope where the belay is from the ground and follow the bolts fairly easily if you keep your destination in mind.
As for the second and third pitches; It's easy to combine pitches two and three with a 60m rope. The climbing is very runout at the top, but easy. If you don't want to deal with the down-climb and/or rappelling off slings, you can rap. I enjoyed pitch two and three and would climb them again because of the superb views and the fact that there just aren't too many multi-pitch climbs in J-Tree.
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snoopy138
Apr 25, 2005, 5:11 AM
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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I did the route a week ago. Route-finding was a bit tricky, but basically you just have to traverse right after you pass the bulge, then go to the anchors straight up, not out right. The correct anchor is above the middle of three huge dishes. From these anchors, you can go to the top in one pitch with a 60m, just clip one of the bolts on the intermediate anchor as you go by. You can also find good info here:
http://www.climbingjtree.com/...n_the_wild_side.html
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jcpace
Apr 25, 2005, 5:46 AM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2003
Posts: 155
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its not a dangerous route. the guide book gives a fairly good idea of the route path
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erclimb
Apr 25, 2005, 11:29 AM
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Registered: Aug 23, 2002
Posts: 204
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i did the first pitch a couple years ago and thought it was suh-weet! keep in mind that vogel's "j-tree classics" gives the route a 5.8, and it has a reputation for being sandbagged--typically among crack climbers; i think it's fairly consistent for j-tree face climbing...echo rock is a good place to warm up--stichter quits and stick to what
take a couple tcus (i think i used the orange one--my favorite) to protect the flake between bolts 2 and 3 and a couple slings to keep the rope in line...i think the crux is between the last bolt and the first set of anchors (got a locking biner here for my first j-tree booty--woohoo!)--very slabby
and wear a helmet
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murf
Apr 25, 2005, 3:31 PM
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Registered: Mar 15, 2002
Posts: 1150
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WOTWS is an old trad route. Remember to take the path of least resistence and you'll be OK. The shortest distance between two points may make you fall.
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