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climbhigh2005
Apr 19, 2005, 6:59 PM
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Registered: Jun 14, 2003
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Simon and I will be heading out to T-wall this Sunday... We were just wondering if anyone could show us around... We dont need anyone to climb with unless you don't have a partner... but mainly we are just looking for someone to show us around the area, and then we will leave ya alone and let ya climb your hard stuff.... haha... we probably wont climb harder than 5.8! :) peace
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tradalltheway
Apr 19, 2005, 7:13 PM
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do you have dixie cragger's atlas. if so then I could reccomend a few climbs. if not, i may be in the area this sunday. i need to get out and climb some instead of being lazy. let me know if you want my route reccomendations.
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climbhigh2005
Apr 20, 2005, 2:33 AM
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In reply to: do you have dixie cragger's atlas. if so then I could reccomend a few climbs. if not, i may be in the area this sunday. i need to get out and climb some instead of being lazy. let me know if you want my route reccomendations.
yes please give me routes and beta and anything would be helpful. i do have the dixie craggers. so if you decide to climb sunday, let me know
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tradalltheway
Apr 20, 2005, 4:17 AM
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starting from page 150
"Art" 5.8 - Awesome climb. I'd reccommend belaying the second from the top.
"Plastic Toys" 5.7 - Nice, Low angle, good warmup.
"Let's Face It" 5.7 - It's all about the traverse on the second pitch, which I'd reccommend combining with the first. Great climb.
"Puppy Ride" 5.9 - In my eyes it's the best moderate there. I loved it. tough start then an easy corner all the way up.
Jump to page 192; the only thing I've done on the south side
"Talon" 5.8 3 pitch - The start is either a 5.5 scramble left around a roof or a shit protected 5.8 roof. I took the scramble. that's P1. P2 is the corner and it's nice, It's why you climb this route. nice belay ledge at the end of P2 or just travel a little ways more to the top, but beware of rope drag if you combine the last two pitches. and if you see a #4 rockcentric at this ledge then let me know.
There are many more awesome climbs, but these are my reccommendations. I'll have to wait until later in the week to see if I can come, but if I do then I wouldn't have a partner and would need to tag along. Good luck, Twall rocks; have ya'll tried Sunset yet? Sunset is pretty nice too.
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one900johnnyk
Apr 20, 2005, 10:42 AM
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is plastic toys the one you belay off the boulder? if so that climb f'in sucks especially for beginners. do jaywalker if it's dry cause it never is. nutrasweet is a nice easy climb and you can walk over and top rope golden locks or cake walk just to the left...
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thegodfather
Apr 25, 2005, 1:47 AM
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where can i get a copy of this dixie craggers atlas?
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one900johnnyk
Apr 25, 2005, 1:51 AM
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nowhere right now. but the new one will be out in a few weeks, so you'll have to just sit tight for a while..
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dirtineye
Apr 25, 2005, 2:11 AM
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Puppy ride is way easier than golden locks, especially for a couple of boulderers turned traders. THe 9 part is the start. Any boulderer could do it with ease, then you are in a nice dihedral crak with featured faces.
Sanskrit (7) is good, you can work on your jams on the first part.
Sport climb "A turn of the page" 10a/b is great, way down to the left though.
Exposed agregate is fun.
Razor worm is a 9 next to cake walk you might try.
Superslide is great, you cna climb the 5.8 to the right and top rops superslide, it's a 10 and sort of run out, all little edges though, lots of fun.
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climbhigh2005
Apr 25, 2005, 11:23 AM
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In reply to: Puppy ride is way easier than golden locks, especially for a couple of boulderers turned traders. THe 9 part is the start. Any boulderer could do it with ease, then you are in a nice dihedral crak with featured faces. Sanskrit (7) is good, you can work on your jams on the first part. Sport climb "A turn of the page" 10a/b is great, way down to the left though. Exposed agregate is fun. Razor worm is a 9 next to cake walk you might try. Superslide is great, you cna climb the 5.8 to the right and top rops superslide, it's a 10 and sort of run out, all little edges though, lots of fun.
Curt
I was hoping to meet up with you yesterday... but since I never made plans with anyone to meet up with I didnt even go.. plus it was the day after prom and rather chilly... if you want to meet up sometime I would love to... . take it easy and thanks for the advice
peace
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saxfiend
Apr 25, 2005, 11:46 AM
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Registered: Dec 31, 2004
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In reply to: is plastic toys the one you belay off the boulder? if so that climb f'in sucks especially for beginners. do jaywalker if it's dry cause it never is. nutrasweet is a nice easy climb and you can walk over and top rope golden locks or cake walk just to the left...
My favorite of the routes mentioned would probably be Razorworm. Shiva's Last Dance is another nice 5.9. I want to do Puppy Ride next time I'm there.
JL
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bootleg
Apr 25, 2005, 11:19 PM
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Registered: Jun 28, 2003
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I also recommend the climb Lets Face It. I think the book only gives it one star or no stars but I think its a must do.
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