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foucol
Apr 25, 2005, 9:01 PM
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Has any one going climbing in the Adirondacks before, I am going this summer and i am wandering it mostly pre bolted or do you need cams and nuts?
Do you know of how to contact?
:?: :idea: :?:
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ben87
Apr 25, 2005, 9:04 PM
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A I understand it, the vast majority of routes in the adirondacks require trad pro.
I have no idea what you mean by your second sentence.
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sbaclimber
Apr 25, 2005, 11:42 PM
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You will definitely want a trad rack! There are some bolted routes, but only in 2 main areas I can think of (King Wall and Roger's Rock), and the King Wall doesn't have many easy routes.
For more info check out the areas listed under Adirondack Park here:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...hp?CountryStateID=59
What type of climbing are you looking for? Maybe I/we can give you some tips on what area might be suitable....
Edited to add 1 more 'bolted' area: Buck Mountain
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foucol
Apr 26, 2005, 8:22 AM
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I don’t thick I have sufficient gear for trad routes; on the other hand I do have sufficient gear for pre bolted routes.
So far I have lead (bolted routes) a 6b this was in west Malaysia, I have also done the same on trad routes.
I am just looking for something interesting and to keep me occupied for a good full day. Preferably trad routes.
King Wall and Roger's Rock do you know what Mountain they are on? The Adirondack park section is out dated 1970 is the newest entry.
Ben87 – “Do you know of how to contact” I mean this by in the Adirondack park is there anyone that u could contact for more information on climbing (Web pages) can be also useful :?:
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changling
Apr 26, 2005, 8:45 AM
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The guide book you should look into is Climbing in the Adirondacks, by Don Mellor.
If you want to contact someone you can try The Mountaineer, or Adirondack Rock and River. Both excellent sources of information on the area.
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piton
Apr 26, 2005, 12:38 PM
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bring a rack for the daks! word has though there are some nice sport climb that have just gone up on pok o. you won't see me on them but i think 1 is to the left of gamanship.
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phaedrus
Apr 26, 2005, 1:14 PM
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phaedrus moved this thread from General to Regional Discussions.
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shakylegs
Apr 26, 2005, 1:42 PM
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As changling mentioned, get Don Mellor's book. If you don't have a full trad rack, there are still a lot of crags you can hit for single pitch or top-rope, especially around the Chapel Pond area, i.e. Creature Wall, Jewels and Gems and, though it can get busy, Beer Walls.
You'll find bolted routes here and there, but they're usually in the 5.11 and up category.
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moonshine505
Apr 26, 2005, 1:44 PM
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when I was living there 5 years ago, bolts were very few and far between. The idea of "sport climbing" didn't seem to exist. Perhaps that's changed, although I can't really think of where you would bolt sport climbs on Poke 'o Moonshine per a previous post. I seem to remember a small wall we called the "beer wall" that had sport-ish routes, but still, trad gear/skills are a necessity.
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tradnomad
Apr 26, 2005, 3:04 PM
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Not anymore... The Mountaineer has pulled all the local info off their website, and Rock and River only has information about their guide services and lodging... :(
Is there anyplace else on the web that has local info? Like what areas are closed for falcons??
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changling
Apr 26, 2005, 3:35 PM
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As adamd said, just give them a call. People of both businesses have always been very helpful and willing to provide information.
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tradnomad
Apr 26, 2005, 5:05 PM
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Thanks for the link (that's what I wanted to know)...
And I know calling is always an option (people at both places have always been real friendly when I've stopped in)... But it was nice (and convenient) when they had the information on their sites, that's all.
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sbaclimber
Apr 26, 2005, 10:08 PM
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King Wall is here: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...n.php?SectionID=1672
Roger's Rock is here: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...Area.php?AreaID=1746
Buck Mountain here: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...Area.php?AreaID=6503
Ignore the 1970 date, it isnt correct..... most of the beta has been added in the past 2 years.
My recommendation for 1 day would be Roger's Rock. You can do Little Finger with a couple sets of nuts (though a couple of small (tri-)cams can be useful). Plus a number of other routes on the slab are bolted. There are some other bolted routes up behind the campground as well, but I am not sure where you would be able to find beta on them (I do not think they are in Climbing in the Adirondacks). btw, use a canoe to get to the slab, the hike sucks!!
Added after seeing adamd's post: if you are going before August, Roger's Rock may well be closed to climbers as well, due to Perigrins.
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foucol
Apr 27, 2005, 8:10 AM
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I have located an ok article on the Adirondacks. It talks about the 2 main rock-climbing areas in the Easter parts of New York (the Adirondacks and the Shawangunks). The part on the Adirondacks gives some climbing areas and there grades. Might be good for thus people that know the areas better then I do.
The web site address I got it form is listed billow.
http://www.adksportsfitness.com/...cles/rock_climb.html
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sbaclimber
Apr 27, 2005, 10:55 AM
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okay....... the article is a little sparse, but the list of routes is kinda a good place to start. Seeing as they are not associated with any areas, you will definitely need the guide to find them (although I could tell you where 50% are off the top of my head).
Another link that popped up in a thread under the Keen Valley area: http://www.adackclimbs.com
The site has some pretty good pics on it.
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cfnubbler
Apr 27, 2005, 1:37 PM
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Buy Don Mellor's guidebook, and scrounge a rack or a partner with a rack. The best routes typically require at least some gear.
In reply to: I can't really think of where you would bolt sport climbs on Poke 'o Moonshine per a previous post.
There has indeed been a bunch of new route development at Poko in the last few years- without trying too hard, I can think of nearly 50 pitches on the main face alone put up since the last edition of Mellor's book. There are more still on the Upper Tiers. Some are fully bolted, others are mixed gear and bolts. They are mostly in the 5.10 to 5.11+ (6a to 7a+) range, and many are excellent. PM me if you want further information- Poko is a great crag.
-Nubbler
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foucol
Apr 28, 2005, 12:55 PM
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all this help is greatly appreciated thanks for the info. is bouldering in NYC as fun as i am told??
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piton
Apr 28, 2005, 12:59 PM
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In reply to: There has indeed been a bunch of new route development at Poko in the last few years- without trying too hard, I can think of nearly 50 pitches on the main face alone put up since the last edition of Mellor's book. There are more still on the Upper Tiers. Some are fully bolted, others are mixed gear and bolts. They are mostly in the 5.10 to 5.11+ (6a to 7a+) range, and many are excellent. PM me if you want further information- Poko is a great crag
some of these bolted lines may be replacements from when ken N, did his chopping, (man that guy should go out to New Jack city). i hear the bolted lines are real sweat.
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cfnubbler
Apr 28, 2005, 1:31 PM
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In reply to: some of these bolted lines may be replacements from when ken N, did his chopping
No, though some of those lines have indeed been rebolted (Le Spirale, for example). I've been climbing at Poko for quite a few years, longer than I'll publically admit, in fact, and I know the history of the area pretty well. I climbed many of the chopped routes before it all went down, and the routes I referred to earlier are new, or at least new variations on old and largely forgotten routes. Smear Campaign falls in to this later category, for example.
-Nubbler
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pico23
Apr 29, 2005, 3:23 AM
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Wow, from the postings you would think the Daks were some sort of mystical place found only in folklore.
Yes, because of the Gunks the Daks only see more adventurous souls or people from north of Albany who find it easier to travel to the Daks. Personally I feel fortunate to have cut my teeth in the Gunks but I consider my real climbing to have been done in the Daks. The only place I've yet to climb in the Daks on intention is the Beer Walls. They are IMO the Gunks of the Daks. It's the only place in the Daks where you might have to wait in line for a climb and you will have to deal with beta sprayers.
The Daks are predominantly trad and offer thousands of routes spread out over 6 million acres. There are crags all over the park. The epicenter is the Keene Valley area BUT BY NO MEANS IS THIS THE BEST AND ONLY CLIMBING. Some have pointed out Rogers Rock, Moxam Dome comes to mind and so does Crane and Huckleberry Mountains. Good Luck Lake also has some cliffs. Do you see where I am going? No? well these places are all over the park. Head north and you can find some climbing on Azure Mountain. There are cliffs all over the place and still potential for quality first ascents. Lake Lila has some interesting slabs located not too far off it's shores that have named climbs on them. I've taken my rack with me a few times while paddling and it's a great experience. I'd love to explore the Bog River flow and see if there is any FA potential but it's a long paddle just to get to the cliffs.
The King wall, Spiders Web, and Poko probably offers the highest concentration of the hardest overall rated routes in the park. True sport though is scarce and technically bolts are prohibited based on Preserve rules. The ethic is strongly traditional and even on runnout trad routes bolts are only placed sparingly for necessary protection. Current DEC regs are supposed to limit all forms of fixed anchors including rappel anchors (webbing).
As far as finding the climbs, the Daks offer far more of a challenge. The climbs in all but a few areas aren't neatly placed on a single wall like the Gunks. They are on various wall all over the place. Sometimes the crux is finding the route in the first place after hiking/bushwhacking in a few miles. Don Mellors guide book, while entertaining and expansive, is often vague. At first this irritated me and at times still does but sometimes I enjoy the challenge of finding the climb in the first place. You won't find chalk marks or a bunch of people spewing "beta" while you figure out a problem on your own. It's just you and your partner. You get up and you get down on your own.
Best climbing in the east (aside from Katahdin).
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