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dirtyleaf
Apr 28, 2005, 7:19 PM
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I just bought my first rack and headed out for my first climb last weekend. I climbed the Blueberry Route in Darrington, WA 7 pitches 5.8-5.9. My partner and I have never taken a climbing class or climbed with more experienced climbers. We climbed up to pitch 4 and then had to bail because it was getting dark. I have DMM sizes 3/4 to 2 and Camalot size 1-3, plus a set of BD stoppers. I just wanted some feedback from some experienced climbers on the best and safest way to learn.
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taualum23
Apr 28, 2005, 7:22 PM
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T0-
Please God, I pray this is a T0-
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cwinter
Apr 28, 2005, 7:31 PM
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You should definitely post this on cascadeclimbers.com. The folks over there are real friendly like and will give lots of helpful advice.
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machino
Apr 28, 2005, 7:46 PM
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The first time I placed gear I was traverse bouldering but I guess multipitching a seven pitch 5.9 at the end of the day would give your more experience. My advice to you if your serious is to stick with a chalk bucket and pad till you read something on trad or someone shows you how to place gear. TO
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euroford
Apr 28, 2005, 7:52 PM
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well shit, it sounds like we should all be asking you for some advice!
:roll:
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urbanfood
Apr 28, 2005, 7:59 PM
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i might have believed it if the guy just said he climbed one pitch, but he had to throw in 3 more pitches and make it multi pitch. big time troll :shock:
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davidji
Apr 28, 2005, 8:14 PM
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In reply to: i might have believed it if the guy just said he climbed one pitch, but he had to throw in 3 more pitches and make it multi pitch. big time troll :shock:
Bailing after 4 pitches makes sense too. He didn't say what time they started, but things typically take longer before you're used to the processes.
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dirtyleaf
Apr 28, 2005, 8:15 PM
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It took us 4 hours to climb those 4 pitches, which I know is really slow. We took our time, placed as much gear as possible, and spent a lot of time testing each piece of pro, placing a long runner, and moving on. I've been climbing for about a year mostly bouldering and sport climbing and spend most of my free time reading up on climbing,(Mountaineers and their alpine and trad books.) This doesn't replace qualified instruction but I just don't know a lot of climbers to learn from and/or just want to go for it. I figured I'd get a bunch of negative unhelpful feedback with a question like that thank you for any input as I could use any and all. -Dirtyleaf :D
p.s. One pitch was 5.9, one 5.8, and the rest were 5.5-5.7
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taualum23
Apr 28, 2005, 8:19 PM
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Helpful feedback:
Don't troll internet forums for fun. Try rockclimbing. It's fun.
When you do try rockclimbing, get qualified instruction, or at least find a mentor. If there are none near you, go to where they are. Learn how to do it, before I have to suck it up and be nice to someone who knows you because your dumb ass gets himself killed, and then everyone will say "Now's not the time to critique his judgement, now is the time to gie condolences and thoughts and prayers," and they'll be right, but you'll still be a dead fool.
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davidji
Apr 28, 2005, 8:24 PM
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In reply to: It took us 4 hours to climb those 4 pitches, which I know is really slow.
Going with a more experienced climber would still be a good idea.
I learned traditional climbing in class, which included my first lead.
Then did a couple of multipitch climbs with a friend who used to guide, but I didn't lead 'til the 2nd climb.
After that I climbed with another very experienced partner, and found that I still had a lot to learn. Still do I'm sure.
For techniques, etc, read Freedom of the Hills, if you haven't.
To help make things more efficient, read Climb On!, by Florine and Wright.
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dirtyleaf
Apr 28, 2005, 8:27 PM
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I don't know forum lingo. What is time trolling :?: I'm not lying or looking for a couple of laughs. I just want some advice on climbing.
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azrockclimber
Apr 28, 2005, 8:28 PM
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SLOW DOWN or you will die! Not even kidding. Please do Lots of reading and some easier single ptich climbs before you even think about doing that again.
Take the advice...it's good.
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azrockclimber
Apr 28, 2005, 8:30 PM
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I do have to say that that was quite an accomplishment. I didn't wan to slam you completely. However man, you really don't know enough about it to be able to handle the infinite number of things that can happen when you start trad climbing. And that leaves out all the shit that can happen 1000' off the deck. BE CAREFUL and go slower. No rush dude. good luck
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dirtyleaf
Apr 28, 2005, 8:33 PM
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What would you specifically recomend? Do more sport climbing, Do low fifth single pitch trad climbs, join a gym, or just hire a guide for a day/take a class
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davidji
Apr 28, 2005, 8:36 PM
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In reply to: ... or just hire a guide for a day/take a class
If you hire a guide, make sure you'll really learn traditional climbing. Most guiding arrangements involve the client following. I doubt that's the way you want to learn.
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holmeslovesguinness
Apr 28, 2005, 8:45 PM
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Assuming this is not a troll - I started out basically the same way. I sport climbed for about two years, got some trad gear, read some books, practiced building anchors on the ground, then went and did a couple of relatively easy multi-pitch routes that had straightforward placements. Everything went well and I had a great time. Ignorance was bliss.
However, the more I climbed (and had a few close calls), the more I realized that I was nowhere near prepared enough to deal with what *could* happened on those first few routes. You owe it to yourself and others to be as well prepared for worst case scenarios as you possibly can. Find an experienced partner, maybe take a self rescue course and first aid class, read as much as you can, practice at home, etc. Be prepared and use common sense.
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golsen
Apr 28, 2005, 8:48 PM
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dirtleaf,
if you are not trolling, my hats off to ya! The fact of the matter is that many of us old timers learned in a similar fashion but on easier climbs. so for advice sakes....A very experienced climber can help. Personally, I would not hire a guide. Read alot...anchors, accidents, and take everything you read on here wi a grain of big salt!
Climb some really good cracks at easy grade. Hell, just go climbing and try not to get in a place where you can fall on trad gear, you will learn just fine. there is no better belay than what exists in your head....If you are trying a climb that is hard for you, then make sure your pro is BOMBER. However, with your limited experience at placing pro, be careful of what you think is good. Practicing aid is a good way to check out your pro.
Have fun
G
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dirtyleaf
Apr 28, 2005, 9:23 PM
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Although i am new to this site I AM NOT TROLLING. I don't know exactly what it means but I am not lying. I caught the climbing bug 2 years ago and have been sick as hell ever since. Thanks for the advice. I am 22 yrs. old and want to climb everything. Most climbers I meet who are my age have been climbing more than twice as long as I have so I feel like I need to catch up.
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golsen
Apr 28, 2005, 9:32 PM
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You dont have to catch up....I was climbing long before your parents caught the bug......Be patient, willing to back off, and you already show a skill most people on this site dont have.....a willingness to go for it. In the old days we climbed stuff that we knew we could, (ie: falling was not normal). If this approach is taken far a while, it will serve you well....
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thedejongs
Apr 28, 2005, 10:05 PM
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First- Trolling is an experienced climber asking dumb questions or posing stupid situations in order to get a rise out of the folks online. Your post falls in the latter category. If this is a troll, you've got me twice-- nice work.
Second- Your post falls in that category because, although folks have already told you that they learned the same way back in the day, in the modern age of climbing there is really no excuse for you not hiring an expert to (1) teach you gear placement on the ground, (2) check your gear placement on the ground, (3) and then climb some very easy material with you doing the placement and them evaluating your placements and giving constructive professional feedback. This may set you back a couple of hundred bucks for one-on-one instruction but that seems to me a small price to pay for keeping your hide intact, not to mention that of your partner-- a particularly important point when you partner up with someone you don't know, they see your gear's used and you've climbed some decent stuff, they lead pitch one of nine, and then find out as they're cleaning pitch 2 that your gear placement was, let's say, less than bomber--and this poor fella finds he's hanging out with a gumby. Be patient. Find an AMGA guide or a good service like AAI. Spend a little money. Become competent. Your other option is to fool yourself that you're competent and only find out you're not when it's a matter of life or death. Books are great, but you can't learn everything out of them. You need some hands-on time. Take it slow. The crags aren't going anywhere.
Cheers.
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sbaclimber
Apr 28, 2005, 10:21 PM
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In reply to: in the modern age of climbing there is really no excuse for you not hiring an expert
If you have the cash to burn, sure, hire someone competent to teach you properly. If you dont, find someone who is experienced, competent and willing to 'show you the ropes'. Follow them a lot, paying attention to what they do, how they place gear, etc. Cleaning gear is the best way to learn what a bomber piece of pro looks like.
Practice close to the ground, and once both of you feel you are ready, go for it and have the experienced person critique your placements/anchors/etc.
Someone mentioned earlier taking advice with a grain of salt. This even applies to stuff you learn from the old crusty trad climber you are following. Read books, ask questions, compare notes. Some things are a matter of style, some are a matter of safey, learn the difference.
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sticky_fingers
Apr 28, 2005, 10:25 PM
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Are you sure you were trad climbing? How do you know you were trad climbing :)
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korntera
Apr 28, 2005, 11:20 PM
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#1 Find someone with experience #2 buy a trade rack #3 practice following up and taking OUT their placements so you know what a good placement is #4 lead something super easy, maybe a 5.5 or at least 4 grades below what you can climb so you have time to mess around and make sure everything is perfect #6 lead harder single pitch and #7 lead whatever you want and then you can teach someone. I myself am learning trad and am at step #6 right now. This way seems to work great for me.
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vegastradguy
Apr 28, 2005, 11:55 PM
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climb more trad- preferably closer to the ground until you're comfortable at a particular grade.
try not to hop on routes that are tougher than 5.7- just because you can crank off 5.12 sport doesnt mean shit when it comes to trad- mentally they're worlds apart.
once you get your time and rate on the easier ground, work your way higher up in both altitude and grades at whatever pace you feel comfortable doing.
the key is stay safe and have fun.
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tradrenn
Apr 28, 2005, 11:55 PM
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Maybe you are just born to climb, most people will aproach you with disbeleve ( spelling ) but don't worry about it. The best you can do is keep thinking positive and please do climb lower grades at least for one year and you will see that some of those routes are full of surprises. I would also advice you to climb few times with more experienced climber and ask him/her what he/she thinks about your placements, I did that and I'm quite huppy about it.
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