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greenketch
May 3, 2005, 3:16 AM
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Registered: Jan 12, 2005
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Hey all, I am done with the remodel on my wall. At least far enough to get a few good pics. It has been fun. I have made it work all within a 8'6" piece of the wood shed beside my house. This is with the exception of the adjustable crack that is outside the door. The Basic wall it seems is pretty close to the one that Tradnomad posted a while back.
One comment up front. I did most all of the rework with Mooched or dirtbagged supplies. I painted everthing with whatever colors that were free in the right kind of paint so no comments about scheme accepted, anything else is fair game.
I started with removeing all the sideing from the end of the shed and the preexistant wall. Then framing changes to reinforce the end rafter for use later and paint on everything.
Here is the framing showing the full up position.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=53544
Here is another shot that shows the full down position. In this one you can see part of the rigging that makes it work.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=53545
A little later I have the wall in and then I modified an adjustable crack to have a gimble on the bottom. It then shackles to a row of eye bolts in the reinforced barge rafter. This way I can make the crack lean to one side or the other. Also I am thinking of small pieces of chain would allow overhanging a bit. In the pic the siding is going back on and only some of the eyes are visible to one side of the crack.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=53546
Here is a shot after the wall is together with it fully up.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=53547
And a last shot with it completley done looking in the door.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=53551
A couple notes. The whole thing fit into a 8'6" x 6' section of the woodshed. The small upper section extends over the path adding 3' to the length. total heigth is 7'6".
I have for a while used an idea that I picked up from the kids playground. I have a bed of 6" of peagravel as a crash pad in the area beside the walkway. This has been a good thing.
I tried with the mooched paint (in this case oil based floor enamel) stirring in 2 cups of thinset mortar that I had left over from somewhere as a texture on the climbing surface. This seemed to work real well, not as rough as sand, and the cement added quite a bit of body to the paint.
When I built the first framed section I framed it at 19.2" o.c. vs 16"o.c. to save a little weight. It worked well to get the rigging to work, but missing the frames with the t-nuts was more of pain than it was worth.
In my last remodel I added the side walls too. I placed t-nuts on an arc that I could use for saftey pins. They seem to hold well but I will let you all know later if there are durability issues.
Hope you don't mind the long post. I wanted to share for other creative venures too. There are a few more pics in my gallery feel free to scope them out or ask questions. I use an old boat trailer winch to raise and lower. It takes 30-40 sec. to go one way or the other fully.
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greenketch
May 3, 2005, 3:25 AM
Post #2 of 12
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I don't know what happened to the pic links. I will look at later.
(edit) Pics fixed, thanks for the tip Jorian. I am much better at the construction thatn the computer :lol:
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jorian_nl
May 3, 2005, 10:14 AM
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Registered: Apr 27, 2004
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You have taken the url of the page where your pics are on.
For linking your photo's you have to take the url of the photo: http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/photos/jump.cgi?Detailed=53547
Looks like a great wall.
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tradnomad
May 3, 2005, 11:36 AM
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Registered: Sep 1, 2004
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Nice wall!! I don't the colors are bad at all :)
How is the top edge of the wall attached? I couldn't see too well from the photos, but it looked like it was hanging off some cables?
TN
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greenketch
May 3, 2005, 3:49 PM
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Registered: Jan 12, 2005
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Good catch on that, The top of the wall rides on a rail. I have a piece of 3/4" pipe that goes throught the ends of the framing. In the ends of this is a steel pin that I made so that a bearing can roll on a piece of angle iron. This is another of the changes I made in the last refit. When I took the picture I had been climbing and playing a bit. I decided to pull out that axle to make some changes when I took the pic. It was temporarily supported by a rope. I can get a better pic of that now. The winch that makes it all work is on the the back of one of the posts across the walkway from the wall.
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fender13
May 3, 2005, 8:06 PM
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Registered: Mar 14, 2005
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That's a nice wall 8^)
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blkdiamond
May 3, 2005, 8:41 PM
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Registered: May 3, 2005
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Very nice setup.
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nich_popsicle
May 8, 2005, 6:08 PM
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Registered: Apr 26, 2005
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DUDE!! That is freaking AWESOME!! Beautiful example of a little unused space put to GOOD use!
That crack, however, makes me a little nervous; how is it anchored to keep it from tipping over? Not saying it looks unsafe, or questioning your skills, just intrigued...
Congrats again on the awesome setup!
-N
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lucas_timmer
May 8, 2005, 7:58 PM
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Registered: Dec 28, 2004
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That's just awesome
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fender13
May 8, 2005, 10:46 PM
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Registered: Mar 14, 2005
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Are the holds adjustable :?:
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greenketch
May 9, 2005, 1:13 AM
Post #11 of 12
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Registered: Jan 12, 2005
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In reply to: That crack, however, makes me a little nervous; how is it anchored to keep it from tipping over? Not saying it looks unsafe, or questioning your skills, just intrigued...-N
Thanks for the good words.
As to the crack it doesn't show real well in the pics. That was how the whole remodel got started. The crack itself is a fairly standard design. The 2"x10"s are spaced with pieces of 3/8" all-thread and I can set the width or taper from tips to offwidths. (1/2" - 9" anyway). I built that gimble thing that you see on the ground. That has a 14" x 24" base and is staked in to the ground with 24" steel stakes at each corner. There are two seperate hinges that allow side to side or front to back pivoting built into that unit. I removed the siding and reinforced the Barge rafter (If your not a carpenter, that is the end of the roof that is hanging past the wall). Into this I placed 3/8" eye bolts that have cast washers on the back side. They are spaced 6" apart over 3' of the end of the shed. In the side of the crack there is also eye bolts. When I want the crack to be vertical the middle eye bolts are in use and I can fit an anchor shackle on each side. By changing which eyes I line up I can tillt it to a little more than 15 degrees either side of vert. If I insert a link or few of chain I can cause it to overhang slightly.
I hope this makes a bit of sense. If not say so and I will post some pics.
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greenketch
May 9, 2005, 1:18 AM
Post #12 of 12
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Registered: Jan 12, 2005
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Fender 13, yes the holds are adjustable. In the movable panels and the lower fixed walls the walls have t-nuts on a 6" grid. In the two side walls that are swept by the moving parts they are all screw ons. These all are no more than 1" in height so that the panels can move past them.
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