|
z_rock90
May 3, 2005, 8:42 PM
Post #1 of 32
(4289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 18, 2005
Posts: 126
|
do you belay with your belay loop or your two harness loops?
|
|
|
|
|
thedukezip
May 3, 2005, 8:43 PM
Post #2 of 32
(4289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 27, 2005
Posts: 8
|
The belay loop is called that for a reason. You technically should not belay with your tie in loops since the two tie in points, along with the belay device, creates three points of contact/pull on (hopefully locking) biner. The Biner is designed to be pulled on in two directions at two points, the belay device and the belay loop.
|
|
|
|
|
hosh
May 3, 2005, 8:45 PM
Post #3 of 32
(4289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2003
Posts: 1662
|
agreed. I used to use the tie-in points, but no more. The belay loop is WAY safer, it doesn't load the biner in uneven ways.
hosh.
|
|
|
|
|
kungfuclimber
May 3, 2005, 8:49 PM
Post #4 of 32
(4289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 6, 2002
Posts: 162
|
Belay off the belay loop, for the reasons efficiently and adequately stated above.
:deadhorse:
|
|
|
|
|
aaronbr86
May 3, 2005, 8:51 PM
Post #5 of 32
(4289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 231
|
I give it a T4
They put the belay loop on your harness for belaying....thats why its there. I dont know why you wouldnt use it. It keeps everything nice and straight and the harness was designed for it to be used this way.
-Aaron
|
|
|
|
|
mcfoley
May 3, 2005, 8:57 PM
Post #6 of 32
(4289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 15, 2002
Posts: 644
|
BELAY loop
|
|
|
|
|
urbanfood
May 3, 2005, 9:01 PM
Post #7 of 32
(4289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 7, 2005
Posts: 127
|
leg loops :shock:
backed up by gear loops. :nono:
bomber :roll:
|
|
|
|
|
bluenose
May 3, 2005, 9:04 PM
Post #8 of 32
(4289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2005
Posts: 227
|
What?
You mean that I shouldn't be just holding the Grigri in my hand? :shock:
Jeff.
|
|
|
|
|
cerikpete
May 3, 2005, 9:05 PM
Post #9 of 32
(4289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 22, 2002
Posts: 4043
|
Hip
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
May 3, 2005, 9:17 PM
Post #10 of 32
(4289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
Ah yes. An oldie but a goodie. And just when I was getting tired of the 'rap bolting' and 'bolted crack' threads. 8^)
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
May 3, 2005, 9:30 PM
Post #11 of 32
(4289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
I know it's called a belay loop for a reason and that on most models, it's the strongest part of the harness. I also know the reason why this is true, and I also belay off the loop. But, I honestly don't think it makes all that big a difference, as long as you keep an eye on the biner and make sure it's oriented correctly.
|
|
|
|
|
z_rock90
May 4, 2005, 3:23 AM
Post #12 of 32
(4289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 18, 2005
Posts: 126
|
I use both depends on what the case is.
|
|
|
|
|
z_rock90
May 4, 2005, 3:24 AM
Post #13 of 32
(4289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 18, 2005
Posts: 126
|
I use both depends on what the case is.
|
|
|
|
|
korntera
May 4, 2005, 3:41 AM
Post #14 of 32
(4289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 14, 2004
Posts: 422
|
Belay loop, because when i am on multipitch, i don't hae enough room through the other two loops to attach a big pear biner. although i did get yelled at, at the college wall for not using both loops, she didn't understand that a belay loop is ok for belaying.
|
|
|
|
|
sick_climba
May 4, 2005, 3:49 AM
Post #15 of 32
(4289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2005
Posts: 508
|
the loop dude. hence its name belay loop. it would be hard and uncomferitable to clip your locking beiner through your harness loops. :lol:
the only way i see that hapening is by using quick draws but as sum one said that would put three pressure points on the beiner and they are not desinged for that hence the fact that they are oval not triangular :idea:
|
|
|
|
|
veritasmmv
May 4, 2005, 3:51 AM
Post #16 of 32
(4289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 23, 2004
Posts: 72
|
never even OCCURED to me to tie in through the leg loops... :?:
|
|
|
|
|
cliffhanger3786
May 4, 2005, 4:07 AM
Post #17 of 32
(4289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 8, 2005
Posts: 18
|
belay loop all the way...if for no other reason, it helps keep down on clutter in that region.
|
|
|
|
|
erbolache
May 4, 2005, 4:23 AM
Post #18 of 32
(4289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 9, 2002
Posts: 65
|
belay loop
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
May 4, 2005, 5:13 AM
Post #19 of 32
(4289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
i belay using the belay loop. its there for a reason.
and i tie into the tiein points.
|
|
|
|
|
takanhase
May 4, 2005, 6:09 AM
Post #20 of 32
(4289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 8, 2004
Posts: 141
|
Is this a trick question! ummm... uh.. ummm... Man I just dont know it's all to complex. sorry no insult intended, just use the belay loop and all your troubles will be solved.... well not all, but that and always keep your hand on the brake side of the rope (the side that you pull the rope toward your hip with in case of a fall) and then many of your belay troubles will be solved :)
|
|
|
|
|
jimdavis
May 4, 2005, 6:14 AM
Post #21 of 32
(4289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1935
|
In addition to tri-loading the biner, it also takes the rise out of your harness (bad for you lower back) and puts a big chunk of metal right up agaist your genitals.
No thanks, belay loops are stronger than your friggin hips anyways. What most people fail to understand is belay loops have 2 loops sown together into one. They say clipping into both is more redundant. I'd like to ask everyone saying that: how many biner's do you have in your hand? How many belay devices?
Think about it, it's made for belaying...I bet it's "strong enough".
Cheers,
Jim
|
|
|
|
|
brokenn
May 4, 2005, 12:58 PM
Post #22 of 32
(4289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 27, 2005
Posts: 4
|
Let me first state that I'm perfectly happy for someone to belay me off the belay loop on their harness, that's what it's made for afterall.
However, from trying a few times on mine, I find that the belay biner kept on rotating, often ending up with the gate being loaded which is NOT a good thing.
If I clip it through the leg loops AND the waist loop, the biner is in a much more 'stable' position, and I can avoid it being loaded on the gate. Also, in this configuration both harness attachment points sit at the same position on my biner, so I'm not getting the tri-loading on it which would also be bad.
My point is that on my current harness it just seems to work much better clipping into my leg loops and waist loop, and not the belay loop.
b
|
|
|
|
|
kubi
May 4, 2005, 1:17 PM
Post #23 of 32
(4289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 15, 2004
Posts: 815
|
In reply to: However, from trying a few times on mine, I find that the belay biner kept on rotating, often ending up with the gate being loaded which is NOT a good thing.
I had the same problem, which is why I invested in one of these:
http://www.usoutdoorstore.com/...ges/p/p-5592!559.jpg
DMM Belay Master. That plastic tab ensures that the biner can never rotate into a loaded across the gate position. Unfortunatly using this for belaying doesn't keep me any safer...I really should be making the people who belay me use it :-).
|
|
|
|
|
altelis
May 4, 2005, 2:18 PM
Post #24 of 32
(4289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 2168
|
no matter how close you think the two tie in points are, when you catch a fall on a belay device clipped into a biner clipped into the tie in points you can almost guarantee that there is some tri-loading going on....to what extent and exactly how dangerous, i don't know....but it IS getting triloaded....
that, and both a tube style device AND a grigri are positioned correctly when clipped into the belay loop and therefore are actually positioned 90 degrees twisted out of the correct orientation.....now this doesn't actually effect the use of the device THAT much, but it is another small consideration....
|
|
|
|
|
cjstudent
May 4, 2005, 2:34 PM
Post #25 of 32
(4289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 21, 2003
Posts: 369
|
I for one, very rarely belay using my belay loop. The main reason I do not use the loop, is it seems that every time I do...and I catch a fall I end up with the biner being loaded across the gate. To me, using the belay loop is just too flimsy, as you are going through the belay movements everything can flop around. And yes, I am sure they have those trick biners that are supposed to keep everything lined up correctly, but I don't want to carry specialized biners.
And as far as belaying off the tie-in loops cross loading the biner, I dont really see that happening. It seems that, maybe not every time, but most of the time, when i catch a fall while belaying from my tie-in loops both of the loops are resting at the bottom of the biner, with the belay device and rope properly positioned at the top. Maybe it varies with what biners you use. I usually carry two large locking biners when i climb, both BD Airlock.
I also rap using the tie-in loops. Some people say that using the belay device this way twists up the system, but I again do not see this happening. When you are rapping, with the rope off to your side, thats the way the ATC is pointing anyways, so everything lines up correctly, and I have not noticed any increase in kinking of my ropes either.
To each their own, but this is the way that I have been doing it for years. I dont really think that it matters if you use the belay loop or the tie-in loops, but I don't see the flaming against using the tie-in loops to be appropriate. In addition, I have a BD Alpine BOD harness that doesn't even have a belay loop!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
