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what's the feel when you climb on the top?
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pumpkin_man


Jul 5, 2002, 11:21 AM
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what's the feel when you climb on the top?
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i am always wondering what's the feel when people climb on the top? plus, how do they get down from the crag? climb down? rappel? or helicopter?


interruptor


Jul 5, 2002, 1:45 PM
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It deppends on the situation. It depends on how hard the climb was and on how it was done (top-rope or lead). When I'm top ropping it's usually a feeling of mission acomplished, I just lay back, relax, look arround and smile. Then i look down at my friends, make a joke or answer back to theirs and enjoy the ride down. When I'm leading or have to prepare the rappel down (wich happens most of the time to save the rope) I stay alert till I finish the manouver and i only relax when I touch the ground.

P.S. - I'm having lots of doubts about my Inglish. Iff yu don't onderstand something, pleeze furgive mi. Tank you very nice!


interruptor


Jul 5, 2002, 1:48 PM
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When you say "rappel", you don't mean coming down in to-rope, do you? I usually rappel in double rope down.


doosh


Jul 5, 2002, 2:08 PM
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Generally, I just walk off.

Bouldering rules!

f--- all that dicking about with gear.


interruptor


Jul 5, 2002, 2:46 PM
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Hey doosh! Are you afraid of heights???


doosh


Jul 5, 2002, 3:27 PM
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No.



micahmcguire


Jul 5, 2002, 7:42 PM
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Bouldering is never as stimulating as real climbing. You don't have to use a singular spark of intelligence to climb on little rocks . The top is seldom more than ten feet and three or four moves away. All you need to be a decent boulderer is strength. No matter the intensity of the moves, its mere training compared to an actual climb where it takes not only all your brute strength, but also all your guts and a keen mind to get to the top.

"F#^king around with all that gear" is awfully rewarding to those who have the patience, the intelligence, and the money to use it. And like I said, it takes balls to use it too. Bouldering never has and never will be as exhilarating, terrifying, and sublime as building your own safe highway up the side of a God-forsaken cliff, moving with your body and your mind one absolutely deliberate anchor at a time.

Bouldering is fun, but it will never be real climbing, it will always be merely bouldering. There is no big air on a boulder, seldom a comparable view, nowhere near the sense of accomplishment, and dare I say (depending on the boulder and the climb) nowhere near the challenge. Ha! Let's see what kind of hornet's nest THAT stirs up!


doosh


Jul 5, 2002, 8:12 PM
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Thanks for your opinion.

It will be summarily disregarded.

Even climbing a ladder is "real" climbing.


micahmcguire


Jul 5, 2002, 8:51 PM
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whatever suffices to entertain the simple I suppose, keep climbing them ladders!


doosh


Jul 5, 2002, 8:54 PM
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OOOOh. BUrn.

Keep being a judgemental chuffwit...

Noone really cares what your definition of "real climbing" is. "Real" climbers know that different folks dig different strokes.



micahmcguire


Jul 5, 2002, 9:13 PM
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you being one of those "real" climbers, lacking the balls to climb up past 20 so feet and all. hmmm


doosh


Jul 5, 2002, 9:27 PM
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Again, why does every rope climbing chuffer assume that a passionate boulderer is afraid of heights.

Not only do I do unroped boulder problems that are taller than 20 feet, but I have climbed quite a bit on rope, to dizzying heights, no less!

Look, it works like this: The nearest trad climbing is 2 1/4 hours away by car. The nearest sport cliff (not counting the urk greenbelt) is about 45 minutes away by car and chipped, drilled and glued all to hell. The nearest boldering zone is 10 minutes from my front door.

If I go sportclimbing, I have to drive, hike in, flake half my rope, warm up on some ez clipups, and then start climbing towards my level. I have to trade off with my partner for the lead, and clean each madly overhung sportclimb before moving on to the next one.

I am already 2.5 hours out and, assuming I don't fall, have done only 3 v7ish moves.

If I boulder, I drive 10 minutes, walk 5 mintues, warm-up on the warm up circuit for 20 minutes and then, 35 minutes from the front door, have done 3 v7s already.

I am then primed to start working some heinous s--- and keep hardwiring strenuous moves into my brain.

This is what I prefer, based on my personality type, my love of natural features (glue sucks!) and my group of friends.

I might slag you off for being a judgemental idiot (welcome to Amerika!), but I will never make a statement like "Trad climbing isn't REAL climbing."

Now that you have stirred up what you wanted to stir up, you end up looking like a total fool. Congrats, buddy, you just helped give trad climbing a bad name...


stevematthys


Jul 5, 2002, 11:02 PM
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i agree with doosh when he said:

"Noone really cares what your definition of "real climbing" is. "Real" climbers know that different folks dig different strokes."

nothing could be more true.


verticallaw


Jul 5, 2002, 11:06 PM
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I say encouage DOOSH's want to boulder. He seems to enjoy being close to the ground ( and hey we can all rope up and go to better ground where there is no doosh )

and remember
no doosh is good doosh.


micahmcguire


Jul 6, 2002, 1:04 AM
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Again, whatever floats your boat. I guess I should feel privileged to live closer to taller climbs. Keep bouldering if it makes you happy. Its not so much that I dissaprove of bouldering as I dissaprove of you, Doosh.


doosh


Jul 6, 2002, 2:00 AM
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You really got me there, champ.

Limestone is where it is at.

LIMESTONE ROCKS YOUR DOME.

Do you live near tall limestone trad climbing? You might be the coolest guy to ever live.


micahmcguire


Jul 6, 2002, 3:37 AM
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limestone eh? no limestone up here, just lots of granite, shale, and basalt. Is limestone any good? I've always had the preconception that it was kinda crumbly and unreliable.


child_of_problems


Jul 6, 2002, 6:30 AM
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I agree With doosh Bouldering rules.


doosh


Jul 6, 2002, 11:47 PM
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Crumbly and unreliable?

http://www.bloodyflapper.com/images/ped5.jpg

Like people ???

see, limestone has personality, man. I even prefer the natural limestone to reinforced (glued) or manufactured shit.. sure some of it breaks off, but the moves are incredible.

http://www.bloodyflapper.com/images/backyard18.jpg

Natural limestone is dead space pockets created by the abscence of matter as organisms decomposed millions of years ago.
It is a porous and interesting stone.

http://www.bloodyflapper.com/images/tonk15.jpg

It is not good for taking trad gear, and often the cliffs are short, but the moves that survive erosion are crazy... they boil down to a new persepective on movement... movement as weight management in space.

http://www.bloodyflapper.com/images/archamedis1.jpg

it's what the Draw is all about.

We have decent granite, but limestone just ROCKS THE DOME.

come and see, I'll give you a tour...

[ This Message was edited by: doosh on 2002-07-06 16:54 ]


doosh


Jul 6, 2002, 11:58 PM
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Seriously... come for the crack

http://www.bloodyflapper.com/images/erock2_20.jpg

Stay for the boldering...

http://www.bloodyflapper.com/images/erock2_9.jpg

then, dig on POCKETS.


micahmcguire


Jul 7, 2002, 12:36 AM
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wow, that rock looks amazing. What part of the country is that?


doosh


Jul 7, 2002, 1:16 AM
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Austin, Texas, baby...

God's Country.


child_of_problems


Jul 7, 2002, 6:49 AM
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Doosh

its me the one with bad english, but oh well.
Those pics look like some sick prob's. What are the ratings on those. I dig limestone to. Have you ever climbed in American fork canyon. It has some limestone. But ya those pics are sick. Texas right.


doosh


Jul 7, 2002, 3:48 PM
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Ratings SHMATINGS!

Just climb!


child_of_problems


Jul 7, 2002, 5:57 PM
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Cool
Just wondering. Do you mainly boulder

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