Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
futuristic portaledges: calling all dreamers/engineers
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Big Wall and Aid Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


anjalidas


May 4, 2005, 3:20 PM
Post #1 of 22 (5196 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 31, 2004
Posts: 4

futuristic portaledges: calling all dreamers/engineers
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Recalling that a U in Colorado dished out a 25k grant and somone got a master's degree for the creation of Splitter gear, I'm interested in how big we can dream on the portaledge design.....my two personal favs are:

The burly version of the rachet up and down pool lounger--I mean, would it get any better than a sweet belay chair that folds down flat when you've had too much to drink, I mean climb.

or how about a snap-together plastic model--they have portable jacuzzi's made of plastic panels that snap together in minutes and hold the force of dozens of gallons of water, what if we had two plastic pieces that snapped together in the middle--and we could kiss bed-sag goodbye forever.

Let's hear it--what is the portaledge of the future?


veganboyjosh


May 4, 2005, 3:24 PM
Post #2 of 22 (5196 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 21, 2003
Posts: 1421

Re: futuristic portaledges: calling all dreamers/engineers [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i'm wondering if anyone has used a plain old hammock to sleep on the wall...


iamthewallress


May 4, 2005, 3:26 PM
Post #3 of 22 (5196 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 1, 2003
Posts: 2463

Re: futuristic portaledges: calling all dreamers/engineers [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
i'm wondering if anyone has used a plain old hammock to sleep on the wall...

I like the original poster's suggestions better. :wink:


davidji


May 4, 2005, 3:28 PM
Post #4 of 22 (5196 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 30, 2003
Posts: 1776

Re: futuristic portaledges: calling all dreamers/engineers [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
i'm wondering if anyone has used a plain old hammock to sleep on the wall...
That's old-school (pre-portaledge). Slept in a hammock lately? It's workable, but less pleasant than it sounds.


veganboyjosh


May 4, 2005, 3:31 PM
Post #5 of 22 (5196 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 21, 2003
Posts: 1421

Re: futuristic portaledges: calling all dreamers/engineers [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i actually do sleep in a hammock. every ngiht. i gave up my bed when i moved so as to have more work space...it's damn comfortable, but the anchor points are on the diagonals of my room, so i think they might be too far apart for use on a big wall.


jderekforrester


May 4, 2005, 3:35 PM
Post #6 of 22 (5196 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 14, 2002
Posts: 104

Re: futuristic portaledges: calling all dreamers/engineers [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Here is a thought. If you had a small seat say 2*2 feet made out of a light carbon frame, you could have a slider that would allow two other 2*2 carbon board runners to come out from underneath the original seat. Then you just attatch an adjustable rigging system. Strong, light, and doubles as a belay seat. You could even add in a few drainage holes to lower the weight a bit more. The only downside would be that it would need to be out all the time, but it would be comfy to sit on.


golsen


May 4, 2005, 3:42 PM
Post #7 of 22 (5196 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 28, 2005
Posts: 361

Re: futuristic portaledges: calling all dreamers/engineers [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=50042

BAT Tent, Basically Absurd Technology, invented by the man himself (I think) Warren Harding....


Partner gunksgoer


May 4, 2005, 3:42 PM
Post #8 of 22 (5196 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 1290

Re: futuristic portaledges: calling all dreamers/engineers [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
i actually do sleep in a hammock. every ngiht. i gave up my bed when i moved so as to have more work space...it's damn comfortable, but the anchor points are on the diagonals of my room, so i think they might be too far apart for use on a big wall.

in addition to not being comfy, sleeping in a hammock can give you back problems after a while (if not immediatly). there is the parasite however, made by pika http://www.pikamtn.com/9bivouacgear.html wich is designed to be slept in and the suspension is supposed to make it more comfy. sounds like a good cheap bigwall solution to me.


veganboyjosh


May 4, 2005, 4:09 PM
Post #9 of 22 (5196 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 21, 2003
Posts: 1421

Re: futuristic portaledges: calling all dreamers/engineers [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
...sleeping in a hammock can give you back problems after a while (if not immediatly)....

do you have a source for this?


crotch


May 4, 2005, 4:21 PM
Post #10 of 22 (5196 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 15, 2003
Posts: 1277

Re: futuristic portaledges: calling all dreamers/engineers [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
i actually do sleep in a hammock. every ngiht. i gave up my bed when i moved so as to have more work space

How does that work out on dates? :P


crotch


May 4, 2005, 4:23 PM
Post #11 of 22 (5196 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 15, 2003
Posts: 1277

Re: futuristic portaledges: calling all dreamers/engineers [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Killer pic, Golsen!


iamthewallress


May 4, 2005, 4:27 PM
Post #12 of 22 (5196 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 1, 2003
Posts: 2463

Re: futuristic portaledges: calling all dreamers/engineers [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
in addition to not being comfy, sleeping in a hammock can give you back problems after a while (if not immediatly). there is the parasite however, made by pika http://www.pikamtn.com/9bivouacgear.html wich is designed to be slept in and the suspension is supposed to make it more comfy. sounds like a good cheap bigwall solution to me.

It's not quite as deluxe as it sounds....More of a "how much sleep do you really need for just one night out" OR "what if I don't make it to the bivy ledge" kind of thing.

Getting into the parasite and then getting into your sleeping bag while in the parasite is a bit of a party trick too. I recommend ground school for this one.


veganboyjosh


May 4, 2005, 4:34 PM
Post #13 of 22 (5196 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 21, 2003
Posts: 1421

Re: futuristic portaledges: calling all dreamers/engineers [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
In reply to:
i actually do sleep in a hammock. every ngiht. i gave up my bed when i moved so as to have more work space

How does that work out on dates? :P

works out great.


stymingersfink


May 4, 2005, 4:37 PM
Post #14 of 22 (5196 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250

Re: futuristic portaledges: calling all dreamers/engineers [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

tell ya what, veganboyish, take that guatemalan handmade hammock out, hang it out the side of your dorm room windows, tie in and sleep there for a few nights in a row. The empiricall evidence will present itself to you immediatley.

I don't think when people referr to hammocks for big wallin' they mean the heavy duty rope ones with the handy dandy spreader bars at either end. As heavy as those things are, you might as well haul up a double porta-ledge.

back to the topic at hand:

Lightweight, bombproof construction that can be driven over by a semi truck and still set up licketty-split during the darkest wettest night in the past decade.

and if wishes were horses, beggars would ride, soooo... it will ACTUALLY levitate up the wall carrying the haul bags with it, self-deploy on command and provide fresh espresso at first light. :lol: 8^)


Partner climbinginchico


May 4, 2005, 8:08 PM
Post #15 of 22 (5196 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 23, 2004
Posts: 3032

Re: futuristic portaledges: calling all dreamers/engineers [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
and if wishes were horses, beggars would ride, soooo... it will ACTUALLY levitate up the wall carrying the haul bags with it, self-deploy on command and provide fresh espresso at first light. :lol: 8^)

If the ledge did your hauling for ya, you can afford to sleep in with the time saved hauling! I say espresso at 9 AM :wink:


davidji


May 4, 2005, 10:34 PM
Post #16 of 22 (5196 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 30, 2003
Posts: 1776

Re: futuristic portaledges: calling all dreamers/engineers [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
i actually do sleep in a hammock. every ngiht.
Sleeping in a hammock makes my back hurt. But it's interesting to know it works for somebody.

If I needed to replace my bed with work space, I'd be tempted to buy a flip-up wall bed. Cheapness might lead me to using a couple of sleeping pads & a sleeping bag though. More comfy for me than a hammock.


crshbrn84


May 4, 2005, 11:21 PM
Post #17 of 22 (5196 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 22, 2004
Posts: 223

Re: futuristic portaledges: calling all dreamers/engineers [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

look in alex hubers yosemite book there is a pick of Robbins and Yvon Chinorard on el cap sleeping in hammocks


Partner kimgraves


May 5, 2005, 7:27 AM
Post #18 of 22 (5196 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 13, 2003
Posts: 1186

Re: futuristic portaledges: calling all dreamers/engineers [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hi Gang,

I seem to remember that there is whole new class of materials or technology that can “remember” what shape it should be in. Like if you crumpled or rolled up a plastic bottle it would grow back to it’s original shape no matter how long it stayed crumpled. Any engineers out there who know what I’m talking about? I can’t remember if they are metals or plastics. Anyway, NASA is looking at them as a way to make large structures in space. The structure would be stored rolled up. When unrolled it would assume a rigid complex shape. Using these materials, I could imagine rolling up a portaledge – like a yoga mat – and then unrolling it into a rigid platform. I hate to think what these things would cost.

Hammocks were the “original” portaledges. In 1972, Chouinard Equipment started selling one – see below. I never tried it, but understand that they abandoned it favor of ledges because it was so uncomfortable and difficult to manage. GPIW catalog page from climbaz.com.

Best, Kim



jello


May 5, 2005, 9:00 AM
Post #19 of 22 (5196 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 20, 2003
Posts: 89

Re: futuristic portaledges: calling all dreamers/engineers [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I slept in a hammock on the captain as recently as eight years ago. It kinda sucks but......when ya wanna climb and don't have a ledge......just watch out for the ants. :shock:


Partner ctardi


May 5, 2005, 7:11 PM
Post #20 of 22 (5196 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 8, 2004
Posts: 1278

Re: futuristic portaledges: calling all dreamers/engineers [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Here is a thought. If you had a small seat say 2*2 feet made out of a light carbon frame, you could have a slider that would allow two other 2*2 carbon board runners to come out from underneath the original seat. Then you just attatch an adjustable rigging system. Strong, light, and doubles as a belay seat. You could even add in a few drainage holes to lower the weight a bit more. The only downside would be that it would need to be out all the time, but it would be comfy to sit on.

Easier said then done.


climbhigher


May 6, 2005, 12:56 AM
Post #21 of 22 (5196 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 5, 2002
Posts: 224

Re: futuristic portaledges: calling all dreamers/engineers [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I am thinking light...Seems like everyone is trying to make lighter gear with still good strength. Light and small would be good. Making a light one season portaledge and a more heavier 2/3/4 season one. Seems like bigwall climbing deals with such heavy gear.


climbhigher


May 8, 2005, 5:10 PM
Post #22 of 22 (5196 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 5, 2002
Posts: 224

Re: futuristic portaledges: calling all dreamers/engineers [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

how much lighter would titanium make a ledge? And way not use that single wall fabric that black diamond useses for there new tents for the rain fly. That would make everything more light. oh yeah, for the webing use that super light stuff that Mammut is using for there slings.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Big Wall and Aid Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook