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bluenose
May 4, 2005, 9:27 PM
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I saw a setup in Climbing mag that uses the same rope for rapelling AND belaying from the top. It depicted four anchors, two for the belayer and two for the rapeller/climber. I don't have the mag here so I can't explain it properly. It could be completely different at the top depending on the terrain, but has anyone used this general setup for this method?
While it was aimed at not having to be lowered to start a climb, giving the climber more control but it looks like a safe way to introduce or practice rapelling (I'm thinking more for kids here but any new climber could benefit).
Any thoughts?
Jeff.
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fatman
May 4, 2005, 9:38 PM
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i don't have the article you're talking about, however I've seen similar setups for practicing rappelling. If the rappel is shorter than a half ropelength you could fix a rope a the center on an anchor, so as to allow a single rope rappel. Then a belayer can have the climber tie in on one end and rappel on the other. I dunno about using 4 anchors, because I think at the most I'd use one for the rope, and another for the belayer. Rappelling is pretty static, and while redundence is good I've never seen 4 separate anchors for two people.
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bluenose
May 5, 2005, 1:20 PM
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The article depicted cams for two two point anchors and the extra redundancy of having separate anchors for each person looked good under the circumstances. I meant to bring the mag in to clarify this but forgot. I think the same thing can be achieved using a tree as an anchor (one of large enough girth, at least) and just using a pair of lockers for attachment points, maybe with a pair of slings for redundancy.
Jeff.
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slobmonster
May 5, 2005, 7:58 PM
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This is a common and secure way to teach a beginner how to rappel.
To clarify the above explanation:
Tie a figure-8 on a bight in the middle of the rope, and attach this bight to the anchor with a locking carabiner, or two ovals reversed & opposed.
Toss one end down; have your n00b tie into the other end.
S/he'll then rappel on the strand already tossed (make sure it touches the ground), while you belay using the other strand. I usually use a Munter hitch directly on the anchor, but re-directing off your waist will give you enough freedom to move around a bit, and give enough slack that your n00b doesn't get short-roped.
Having two independent "master points" can make this setup slightly more manageable, but it's not necessary.
Cheers.
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altelis
May 5, 2005, 9:26 PM
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yep, thats right...i use this method ALL the time-its a lot safer if you are the only experienced person b/c you can be at the top and check the tie-in and the harness and belay device and not half to worry about inexpereinced climbers giving a fireman's belay without being supervised. another advantage is if something like clothing gets stuck in the device you have a seperate rope already in place to unweight the device with and solve your problems
note-this method can be used with one rope or two, doesn't make a diffence....you can also just use a clove hitch instead of a figure eight on a bight-makes getting the knot out an easier task...
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