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sjuclimber
Apr 25, 2002, 10:27 PM
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Registered: Apr 23, 2002
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I havent been able to find good info or directions from the internet on Susquehanna State Park in Maryland. I was wondering if anyone knew about the rocks there, ratings? Also, how exactly you get there? If anyone can answer these questions or, I will be at home, which is 15 mins from the park from May 12-30. Just learning to top rope, and would love to learn about this crag since it is only 15 mins from my house.
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maxx
Apr 25, 2002, 11:58 PM
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Registered: Oct 27, 2001
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this comes directly from - Indy's Underground Climber's Guide of Maryland
SUSQUEHANNA STATE PARK
There is some climbing up and down the Susquehanna River in Maryland and Pennsylvania. Much of this is on private land (90% of that you should steer clear of!), but there is a little on public land. Specifically the old quarry in the Susquehanna State Park.
The rock here is a granite, like that across the river at Port Deposit. It is of pretty good quality, but there IS loose rock around - be careful!. There is climbing upwards of 5.9 or so in difficulty. Probably not a destination for your way-honed hardman climber, but a nice diversion from all the other places around.
Access to this little crag is difficult for now. Either you can canoe in along the river, or walk along the old canal tow path, following the railroad tracks (be careful that you have to work around some questionable bridges). Please keep clear of private property, and if confronted about trespass issues, please don't get all up in arms with the nearby landowners. The Park is trying to get a trail system in, and any antagonistic actions between you and the local landowners will hamper their efforts.
Ultimately it is hoped that the Greenways Trail System will be finished to go up/down the Susquehanna, and when it is done, the trail will take you right past the rocks. Access at that point will be a LOT easier! Just be patient for the time being, okay?
As with all Park property, there is NO bolting allowed on this rock.
TRAVELLER'S ADVISORY: as of Aug 2001, there have been numerous break-ins of cars (convertibles seem most vulnerable) at the various crags up and down the Susquehanna (whether the crags are on private or public land makes not much difference). The Cauldron (a private land area and will probably ultimately be closed to climbing in any event; the landowners are cracking down on trespassers via the state troopers) has seen over 30 car break-ins in the past 3-4 months - WARNING! Don't take valuables with you and leave them in the car! Out of sight or not. This should go for most all areas, but it seems the Susquehanna region is being plagued more with assholes who get off on this sort of thing [breaking into cars and vandalism]. Thanks to Joanna of Baltimore for the warning (who also suffered from the predations of these people).
Now, if you still want to go, you can, but I would suggest going to Rocks State Park
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climbracer
Apr 26, 2002, 1:02 AM
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Registered: Apr 18, 2002
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Another web site with beta is: www.nobeta.com look under the guides section.
Good Luck! Sounds a bit flaky.
Kathy
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sjuclimber
Apr 26, 2002, 4:44 PM
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Registered: Apr 23, 2002
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MAXX- yeah I had foung that site, but it didnt have any specific directions as to where the place was. But thanks.
climbracer- Thanks for the maps that helps alot, now to figure how in the hell im going to get there. Anyone have any idea of some basic road directions on how best to get as close as possible, without parkin on some crazed farmers private property? Also, anyone ever been there? Worth going or not?
Thanks again,
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svilnit
Jul 7, 2002, 5:34 PM
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Registered: Jun 19, 2002
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I believe you are better off going to Rocks State Park. Not much furthur away, however you will find a world of difference in the climbing..
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