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granite_grrl
May 9, 2005, 11:30 AM
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A friend and I are thinking of heading up there some weekend to check things out. Things that I already know about the area are: You have to sign a waver and pay a fee for Old Baldy and there's not easy free/cheap camping around.
We were thinking of maybe doing some "overnight parking" on Sat night, bad idea? Our cooking would probably consist of runs to Tim Hortons for breakfast, lunches at the crags and eat out for dinner so we wouldn't have to set up camp anywhere.
I like leading both sport and trad, but she mostly topropes. Are there problems for setting up topropes at the crags around there?
Thanks for any info provided!
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tradnomad
May 9, 2005, 12:43 PM
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There use to be good free camping at the base of Metcalfe's, even had a spring for water...
Has this changed??
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downshift
May 9, 2005, 1:56 PM
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The campsite at Metcalf was closed last year. From what I've heard they have not been re-opened.
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ecocliffchick
May 9, 2005, 2:00 PM
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There is no more camping at Metcalfe. They are trying to rehabilitate the area at the base of the cliff where the vegetation has been lost due to trampling, firewood collecting, etc. I've only done day trips to the Beaver Valley area... so I can't help out on the camping information. I don know that there have been tickets given to cars parked outside of Metcalfe on the road after dark...
You won't really have a problem with setting up top-ropes if you are planning on leading and just having your partner second the route at Baldy as there are top anchors on almost all the sport routes. If you really want to just set up top-ropes and forgo leading altogether, Metcalfe would be better than Baldy. There are always guide services at Metcalfe because there are easily set up topropes on relatively easy to moderate climbs.
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tradrenn
May 9, 2005, 10:50 PM
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More info is at www.climbers.org
You can crash at my place. ( if it helps)
I'm at Erin Mills / 401
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granite_grrl
May 10, 2005, 11:19 AM
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In reply to: More info is at www.climbers.org You can crash at my place. ( if it helps) I'm at Erin Mills / 401
My friends lives in Burlington, so I don't think she's too much further away from Metcalf than you. Thanks for the offer.
From the above site about Metcalf: "There is free camping here, with water available from a spring near the base of the crag." Is this info up to date? I was sure that at least last year I was told there was no free camping around there.
PS, tradrenn - what are the dates you're heading to NH? You want to try to squeeze in a bouldering session some afternoon before you go?
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arjunrattan
May 10, 2005, 12:15 PM
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regarding metcalfe rock top roping is not a problem I believe. I'm part of the U of T outing club and as you prolly know we have a huge cabin right by metcalf rock. in the last few UTOC meetings we did talk about opening the cabin to climbers in general. if you want I could find out about staying over at the cabin for you guys.
edit : camping is no longer allowed by metcalfe rock. But the U of T cabin is right by the rock and is an awwwsome place to stay. Yes water is available (the natural spring).
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tradnomad
May 10, 2005, 12:24 PM
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In reply to: From the above site about Metcalf: "There is free camping here, with water available from a spring near the base of the crag." Is this info up to date? I was sure that at least last year I was told there was no free camping around there.
I think it is out of date... see ecocliffchick's post.
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*thriller*
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May 10, 2005, 12:49 PM
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Camping at Metcalf was nice back in the day. The problem was that it was ruined by high-school kids having raging drunken bush parties that involved cutting down trees with chainsaws for big bonfires. Now nobody's allowed to camp in the area. The "no camping" is generally enforced by the "no overnight parking."
I would think that as long as you found somewhere else to park, you could camp out further along the bruce trail not too far away. Just remember the 'leave no trace' ethic and you should be fine. This is assuming that camping along the bruce trail is legal - am I right on that one? I know it's not all crown land, but is there some sort of moratorium of understanding?
Ian
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tradrenn
May 11, 2005, 2:03 AM
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In reply to: PS, tradrenn - what are the dates you're heading to NH? You want to try to squeeze in a bouldering session some afternoon before you go?
PM Grant about camping, he will know the most.
As far as NH goes I don't think I'm going.
1 I cannot go with somebody that tells me all the time what to do. ( how I rack, what I think, and her idea of me climbing on two 10.5 mm ropes) I will tell you more next time I see you.
2 One guy from this site wanted to go but now he is non responsive
I will send him email tonight and I will see what happends.
Do you have any plans for May 24 long weekend as of yet ?
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cgarstin
May 31, 2005, 3:21 AM
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To add to the confirmations already posted here, camping is NOT permitted at Metcalfe Rock. I was one of the lucky ones who spent my early years camping and climbing at there, but alas, no more.
There is a nice little privately-run campeground about a 10 minute drive north on highway 2. It's nothing special, but I like the appeal of a low-key, rustic campground. It has showers and wood and a small convenient store.
Info:
WILLIAM STEWART & DAUGHTERS
RR #2
CLARKSBURG, ON
N0H 1J0
(519) 599-3800
If you just wanted directs, it's simple.
- From Metcalfe Rock, go back to Highway 2
- Go North on Highway 2 until you're about 1km from the T intersection with Highway 26.
- The campsite is on the left, before a small bridge, you can't miss it.
More info:
http://www.georgiantriangle.com/members/showBusiness.php?memberId=150
I'm plugging the place cause they've been so nice and it's comforting to not have to worry about getting parking tickets, or adding to the list of reasons why people can't camp at Metcalfe by camping when you shouldn't.
Peace,
Gar
campergar AT yahoo DOT ca for more info
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darkside
May 31, 2005, 11:50 AM
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In reply to: Camping at Metcalf was nice back in the day. The problem was that it was ruined by high-school kids having raging drunken bush parties that involved cutting down trees with chainsaws for big bonfires. Now nobody's allowed to camp in the area. The "no camping" is generally enforced by the "no overnight parking." I would think that as long as you found somewhere else to park, you could camp out further along the bruce trail not too far away. Just remember the 'leave no trace' ethic and you should be fine. This is assuming that camping along the bruce trail is legal - am I right on that one? I know it's not all crown land, but is there some sort of moratorium of understanding? Ian
Too bad about the rowdies screwing up the camping. They almost got climbers blamed for it and the crag closed too but we managed to avoid that and it was kept to a camping ban.
I'm not going to state specifically that camping is prohibited along the Bruce Trail in this area but I do recall reading the BT Guide and it saying that camping was only allowed in designated campsites. You may want to read the guide to see where they are located.
While camping is allowed on most crown lands, there are some restrictions and in any case, less than 40% of all land in S. Ontario is crown land. N. Ontario has more than double that percentage of crown land.
While poaching a night in your car in a parking lot may not create many problems, setting up a tent anywhere within walking distance of Metcalf is inviting trouble. The camping posted by cgarstin sounds like the best way to go
Top roping at most of the crags in the central escarpment area is not a big problem although this shouldn't be taken as a licence to act irresponsibly. Finding loopholes in regulations (camping or otherwise) will only lead to problems ultimately. Act as stewards of your climbing areas if you wish to continue climbing there. (even if you don't want to continue climbing for that matter).
For Old Baldy there are the following guidelines. Note that they are based on climber suggestions from the guidebook.
In reply to: Grey Sauble Conservation Authority Old Baldy Rock Climbing Guidelines Schedule "A" 1. NO REPELLING. 2. NO TOP ROPING OFF TREES. 3. DO NOT CHIP OR DRILL HOLDS. If you can not climb without chipping or drilling, find another route. 4. DO NOT CLIMB ALONE. 5. NO INSTRUCTIONAL GROUPS. 6. Do not cut or damage any trees, no matter how small they are. The size of a tree has very little relation to its age on the escarpment. 7. Avoid trampling seedlings at the base or top of the cliff. 8. Do not pull out any plants from the face of the cliff; they are probably older than you are. 9. Do not injure or disturb snakes or other fauna. 10. Stay on existing trails to avoid causing unnecessary erosion. 11. Carry out any garbage you take in, and help out by picking up any that you see on the ground. 12. Report any problems or concerns to the Grey Sauble Conservation Authority. (519 - 376-3076) 13. Do not retrobolt.. get permission from the first ascensionist, and use natural protection wherever possible. 14. Think before putting up new routes. If a route is vegetated and dirty it is a prime seedling recruitment site and may be home to rare flora and fauna. This also goes for established routes. If it looks dirty and overgrown find somewhere else. 15. Use 3/8" by 2 ½" or preferably ½" by 2 ½" stainless steel bolts or better. 16. Paint any fixed gear, and avoid pins, as they leave unsightly rust stains on the rock. 17. Place painted hangers (natural colours) and place rap anchors. DO NOT USE TREES. 18. Climb Safe. Taken in part from "The Escarpment- A Climbers Guide”, by Marc Bracken, Judy Barnes, Chris Oates, Borealis Press, 1991 (Recommended reading) |
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geezergecko
Jun 2, 2005, 1:01 PM
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In reply to: ...Too bad about the rowdies screwing up the camping. They almost got climbers blamed for it and the crag closed too but we managed to avoid that and it was kept to a camping ban... |
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