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Access in Baihe river (outside Beijing)
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climbnhi


May 11, 2005, 12:48 AM
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Registered: Jul 15, 2003
Posts: 19

Access in Baihe river (outside Beijing)
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I just returned from a trip to Baihe. I was suprised to find out that the 'good morning' wall has been exploited by local's and possibly some folks from Beijing. They are now charging a few to climb the routes there. In addition, they filled in the base of several climbs, making them 2-3 meters shorter. This is a problem for one route in particular, 'pumpy machine', if you fall at the crux without clipping the draw beforehand you could have a nice ground fall. I prefer to clip this bolt after doing the crux sequence to save energy (which has resulted in some really nice air time).
My friends thought they could argue thier way out of paying the fee, this was not happening, so we left.
It seems the locals climbers are unhappy with this new development. They have taken off the first hanger on most routes. The new proprieters also told me they put the routes up themselves, which I found interesting since I know most of the route makers, and made one of the routes myself.
The routes do not appear to be in good condition. The increased amount of road traffic has covered the wall with a thick layer of dust. Most of the hangers I saw are loose, and from the ground I could tell that some of the top anchors are rusty.
If you decide to climb here, good luck!! Hopefully there can be some kind of compromise with the party who claims to own this cliff, to clean up the routes, and make things safer for the newer climbers in Beijing who don't know any better.


guangzhou


May 11, 2005, 1:33 AM
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Registered: Sep 26, 2004
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Re: Access in Baihe river (outside Beijing) [In reply to]
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Capitalism is alive in well in CHina.

Youngshuo went throught the same thing a few years ago, but through hard work climbers have won out.

Get your localclimbing community together and have them deal with the issue in force instead of on an indivisual basis.


calvinzeng


May 11, 2005, 2:01 AM
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Registered: Sep 7, 2002
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Re: Access in Baihe river (outside Beijing) [In reply to]
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It's pity.Last year i went to BaiHe.Same thing was happen on us.
But worst than that, a team went to climb HuaShan of ShanXi province a few weeks ago.The management of HuaShan asked them stop when they start climbing.The reason is fee.Fxxk!


cosmin


May 26, 2005, 10:55 PM
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Registered: Oct 3, 2004
Posts: 131

Re: Access in Baihe river == On the matter of fees [In reply to]
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Is there any official policy one can invoke when setting up fees for rock climbing areas in China, outside the already established 'scenic places'?That is: is there any legal ground for such practice and if there isn't what can be done?
Cheers,
Cosmin

PS am interested in Hua Shan myself...


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