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beetleman
May 11, 2005, 6:03 PM
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My climbing partner was recently nice enough to drop one of my BD Camalots from atop a short 20m climb it bounced off the face then landed on pretty solid ground. :cry:
It looks ok, but I'm unsure.
I know if it were a biner I would retire it, Should I retire the cam?
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altelis
May 11, 2005, 6:07 PM
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yes, you should definitely retire it!! No questions. but don't forget, you need to dispose of retired climbing gear in the proper manner (much like batteries, in fact). Its actually very complicated and costly, so i am going to do you a huge favor-just send me the cam and i'll take care of it for you 8^)
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csproul
May 11, 2005, 6:09 PM
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If it looks and works ok, it is ok. And a biner dropped in a similar manner would also be fine if you couldn't see otherwise.
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craftedpacket
May 11, 2005, 6:10 PM
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I think BD is now saying that you can still use a dropped cam if there are no evident signs of damage. Sorry altelis, I know you wanted to help him dispose of it :p.
A question I have is if you take a leader fall onto a cam do you retire it? Or do you go by the same principle of inspecting it for damge, and continuing to use it if there are no visable signs of damage?
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davidji
May 11, 2005, 6:16 PM
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In reply to: A question I have is if you take a leader fall onto a cam do you retire it? Or do you go by the same principle of inspecting it for damge, and continuing to use it if there are no visable signs of damage?
I guess if you're not comfortable using it, you might as well let one of us "dispose" of it for you.
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altelis
May 11, 2005, 6:22 PM
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In reply to: DO NOT LISTEN TO THIS MAN. He's a swindler who's just trying to get you to send him your gear. He's a cheap bastard... a con man...
you say this like its a bad thing 8^)
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shakylegs
May 11, 2005, 6:29 PM
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You guys really need to look into the concept of "originality." In this case, that would mean avoiding the old "oh, it's bad, send it to me" canard.
Just a thought.
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azrockclimber
May 11, 2005, 6:37 PM
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retarded answers.
Here is the the answer to your question...Do you mind having possible micro fractures, or other problems in a life saving device? I you don't mind..keep it. If you do mind toss it. I have tossed a cam that I thought took a bad tumble..I have kept a cam that I was not willing to get rid of. It may or may not be fine. I'll have to wait and see....Do I think about that cam when I place it in a serious ass situation...you better F'ing believe it. I usually back it up asap. thats it....totally personal preference....you could drop it 10' and have it be seriously compromised..you could drop it 100' and have it be fine..who knows??
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epic_ed
May 11, 2005, 6:51 PM
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Microfractures? :roll:
Any idea where you tossed that cam, Wes?
Ed
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azrockclimber
May 11, 2005, 7:24 PM
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i actually gave it to someone...who didn't mind. I think he uses it for slacklining in his back yard.
and Ed, if you are advocating using gear that has been dropped onto rock from 60' you're an ass man. Or if you are trying to making it sound like my decision is dumb..your an even bigger ass.
Do some of you assholes realize that people who may not have the experience to judge the condition of a cam read this stuff...I guess I don't really need to worry about you though, ed..reckless behavior eventually cathces up with you..more likely your a poser trying to sound hard...get off it loser and give sound advice to people who need it...
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lazyjammin
May 11, 2005, 7:30 PM
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I dont understand, isnt the point of making a redundant anchor so that you never trust your life to one piece of gear, and if you never trust your life to one piece of gear and it fails then its not the big of a deal. Maybe dont use it on death runouts but why not keep using it.
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csproul
May 11, 2005, 7:32 PM
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Sure, if you have a bad "feeling" about your gear, or YOU don't trust it, that is a great reason to retire gear. But after talking to various gear manufacturers/engineers and people from the AMGA, I don't believe the whole microfracture thing. I don't believe that there is any reason to not use gear that otherwise looks and performs ok. If you can show me any research that shows the contrary, I'd be happy to re-assess my views, but until then...
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shakylegs
May 11, 2005, 7:34 PM
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In reply to: i actually gave it to someone...who didn't mind. I think he uses it for slacklining in his back yard. and Ed, if you are advocating using gear that has been dropped onto rock from 60' you're an ass man. Or if you are trying to making it sound like my decision is dumb..your an even bigger ass. Do some of you assholes realize that people who may not have the experience to judge the condition of a cam read this stuff...I guess I don't really need to worry about you though, ed..reckless behavior eventually cathces up with you..more likely your a poser trying to sound hard...get off it loser and give sound advice to people who need it...
wow, do you ever get indignant easily.
The cam didn't fall onto rock, if I read correctly. It bounced off rock to land on solid ground.
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extrasketch
May 11, 2005, 7:35 PM
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In reply to: i Do some of you assholes realize that people who may not have the experience to judge the condition of a cam read this stuff..
Anyone who seriously take advice from strangers they have never met over the internet on life saving issues has more of a probelm then wether or not to use a dropped cam, imo
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azrockclimber
May 11, 2005, 7:38 PM
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oops...are you an idiot...you are just as bad as the "people" taking the advice then if you think it is alright to give bad advice... or advocate suspect ideas. wow..DUMB.
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coldclimb
May 11, 2005, 7:40 PM
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I know how it is to be a climbing bum with no or little money, so I'll tell you what: I'll do you a favor and pay shipping to send the cam to me. I have access to the necessary equipment for proper dismantling and disposal of climbing accessories, and I also like to do a little investigation into the possibility of failure of suspect gear. I'm really interested in examining and experimenting with this cam. Think about it. ;)
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azrockclimber
May 11, 2005, 7:44 PM
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In reply to: Sure, if you have a bad "feeling" about your gear, or YOU don't trust it, that is a great reason to retire gear. But after talking to various gear manufacturers/engineers and people from the AMGA, I don't believe the whole microfracture thing. I don't believe that there is any reason to not use gear that otherwise looks and performs ok. If you can show me any research that shows the contrary, I'd be happy to re-assess my views, but until then...
okay..so what you are saying is that until someone presents you with research you are going to continue to back the "if it looks okay uie it principle?" Hmm..I can think of a few things that I just don't even need hard evidence to know not to do.
I didn't say don't use it...read what my advice was...
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j_ung
May 11, 2005, 8:06 PM
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In reply to: i actually gave it to someone...who didn't mind. I think he uses it for slacklining in his back yard. and Ed, if you are advocating using gear that has been dropped onto rock from 60' you're an ass man. Or if you are trying to making it sound like my decision is dumb..your an even bigger ass. Do some of you assholes realize that people who may not have the experience to judge the condition of a cam read this stuff...I guess I don't really need to worry about you though, ed..reckless behavior eventually cathces up with you..more likely your a poser trying to sound hard...get off it loser and give sound advice to people who need it...
OK, I'll give you a serious answer. Microfractures are a myth. You're wrong and you're uptight today. Hope that helps. :D
In other news, yes, I am guilty of the same tired old send-me-your-gear joke. I'm sorry, but it just never seems to get old. Flog me.
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jt512
May 11, 2005, 8:07 PM
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In reply to: and Ed, if you are advocating using gear that has been dropped onto rock from 60' you're an ass man.
Then, Ed and I have at least two things in common: we'd both use dropped gear, and we're both ass men. Hillary should be able to confirm both of these things.
-Jay
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jt512
May 11, 2005, 8:10 PM
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In reply to: retarded answers.
...and then went on to give an example.
-Jay
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csproul
May 11, 2005, 8:10 PM
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I think you'll find that what I said was more along the lines of: if you are that uncomfortable with the gear, or you'll think about it every time you use it, then by all means retire it. I have done a little research and asked people I think are more qualified than myself to assess potential damaged to climbing gear, and the answers I have come up with would lead me to believe as I do. Of course I don't need hard proof to know that certain things might be bad for me.
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j_ung
May 11, 2005, 8:10 PM
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OP, sorry for the sarcastic response to your answer seeking. If you're worried about the cam, contact BD and talk with them about it. None of us are as good a source as THE source of the gear.
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shakylegs
May 11, 2005, 8:14 PM
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In reply to: OP, sorry for the sarcastic response to your answer seeking. If you're worried about the cam, contact BD and talk with them about it. None of us are as good a source as THE source of the gear.
okay, you've redeemed yourself. now the op should send the cam to me. bwahahaha! (gosh, it is funny when you write it, isn't it?)
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azrockclimber
May 11, 2005, 8:15 PM
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j-ung...what do you think BD will say??!!
...& JT512..I have dropped gear that I use as well...thats great for both of us...big Fucking deal..that wasn't my point..
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