|
bluenose
May 13, 2005, 2:13 PM
Post #1 of 11
(1885 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2005
Posts: 227
|
Unbelievable!
I did a quick search "best shoes" as I was looking for an answer about buying non-climbing shoes to start in. Need shoes anyway so go multipurpose for the easy climbs I expect to do this season. Spend the extra next year when they will actually be of use.
2921 matching threads (or posts?)
I found two related threads about non-climbing shoes for climbing in the first 100 or so matches.
I did find my answer but 2921 threads? Probably more by now, right, at least 2922 :oops: .
|
|
|
|
|
landgolier
May 13, 2005, 3:14 PM
Post #2 of 11
(1885 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 3, 2005
Posts: 714
|
Multiple term searches go a lot better if you use quotes if possible, otherwise it does get pretty ugly. Unfortunately, whatever search logic generates the related topics at the bottom of a thread seems to work way better than just searching :D
On this subject, good luck, there has never been some magical uberthread where the Best Shoe Ever was discovered. You can read reviews, but keep in mind who is writing them (i.e. 90% of the Mad Rock reviews are written by noobs who have never worn anything else, Mythos have a loyal following that would still wear them if Sportiva shipped each pair stuffed full of goat nuggets, etc...). I can't resist joining the fray, though: You can climb the big juggy stuff in approach shoes, but you're not going to learn much about footwork, and you're going to want something real pretty soon. You're also going to be buying a shoe that is going to wear really quickly in normal use (especially on pavement). Don't waste your money.
If you've never had climbing shoes before, get MR flashes. The rubber is softer, but you're going to kill your first shoes with bad footwork anyway, and you're going to want your next pair smaller. Lay down your $55 at REI, and 6 months from now you're going to buy Evolvs and use the mads only for easy stuff.
|
|
|
|
|
firemonkey
May 13, 2005, 3:29 PM
Post #3 of 11
(1885 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2005
Posts: 22
|
my first shoe was a madrock flash, i climbed 2 routes in them and they were so agonizingly painful that i couldnt give em the chance to break in.. i even took em back and tried differnt sizes, and climbed all over rei's wall, but i had the problem of feeling like my toe split open when ever i put striaght-on pressure on my foot, so i tried out the mythos and was utterly amazed how much more comfy they were right off, well worth the extra money, in my opinion...
but if you want a normal shoe that you could climb in too, i might suggest a shoe from Inov-8, they're a pretty new in the US, based in britain, trail running shoe company and their awesome... i just got some Flyroc's and i love em, they're super snug and ultra-light. my foot doesnt move one little bit, even when running downhill, and they have a pretty soft rubber... theid probly get torn to shreds on rock pretty quick thogh, they all have lightweight mesh uppers...but for just playing around on easy routes, i bet they'd do pretty good.
|
|
|
|
|
mistajman
May 13, 2005, 3:33 PM
Post #4 of 11
(1885 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 15, 2005
Posts: 136
|
My second shoe was the scarpa reflex. I really liked this shoe and one can find it for very cheap on the internet. I know have red chili phantoms and absolutely love them, it is worth the extra money.
|
|
|
|
|
bigjonnyc
May 13, 2005, 3:43 PM
Post #5 of 11
(1885 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 17, 2004
Posts: 369
|
Check out the 5.10 Guide Tennie. I've not tried them or heard anything about them, but the look pretty good for hiking and easier climbs. Just a quick suggestion.
|
|
|
|
|
firemonkey
May 13, 2005, 4:11 PM
Post #6 of 11
(1885 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2005
Posts: 22
|
oh yea, i saw a blurb for them 5.10 tennies, it said something like "can easily handle a 10 mile approach then tackle a 5.13 without losing a stride" they mighta been exaggerating a bit but sounded pretty cool...
|
|
|
|
|
cactusjack
May 13, 2005, 4:51 PM
Post #7 of 11
(1885 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 27, 2004
Posts: 62
|
Dude, you'll just need to go and try stuff on. We can recomend till our fingers are tired of typing, but its all about how your foot is shaped, and how much your willing to contort them into a tiny ballet slipper known as a climbing shoe.
Just don't go climbing in tennis shoes, you'll tear them up. Just swing by REI, or your other local vendor and check stuff out, find out what fits you, and then come back and search for peoples rating on those shoes.
|
|
|
|
|
kyote321
May 13, 2005, 4:58 PM
Post #8 of 11
(1885 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2005
Posts: 636
|
Mad Rocks have been pigeonholed as beginner shoes, but have been climbing for 15 years and i love thier fit, the rubber, and the price. they seem soft at first, but the rubber lats longer than you'd expect at first. Koyamada climbed the wor'd's hardest problem in their $90 Locos!
|
|
|
|
|
gat
May 13, 2005, 5:10 PM
Post #9 of 11
(1885 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 3, 2003
Posts: 420
|
Here's a suggestion that takes a different route...are you a backpacker/hiker? Do you have some boots with a stiffer sole (the stiffer the better)? If you answered yes, I personally would suggest using your boots. They will edge better than a regular running/tennis shoe. Obviously there will be absolutely no sensitivity, but on easier routes that won't matter.
|
|
|
|
|
bluenose
May 13, 2005, 5:17 PM
Post #10 of 11
(1885 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2005
Posts: 227
|
In reply to: Here's a suggestion that takes a different route...are you a backpacker/hiker? Do you have some boots with a stiffer sole (the stiffer the better)? If you answered yes, I personally would suggest using your boots. They will edge better than a regular running/tennis shoe. Obviously there will be absolutely no sensitivity, but on easier routes that won't matter.
Actually, I thought of that but figured the sole is SUPER stiff and wouldn't work well, sensitivty being the issue. Also, I wouldn't want to crap out my good boots on the rock either and have to replace them, then I wight as well have bought good climbing shoes, they're far cheaper than replacing my boots, less than half of the cost.
Although I appreciate the input I wasn't really looking to start another shoe thread, I was more commenting on the number of already existing shoe threads.
|
|
|
|
|
drubt
May 13, 2005, 5:45 PM
Post #11 of 11
(1885 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 19, 2004
Posts: 196
|
montrails new approach shoe the ctc is pretty dang cool. Its built on the same last as the hardrocks but instead of trail running its morphed into a summer version of the D7's because it has a mesh upper instead of that solid hot leather. The bottom has a bit of their gryptonite rubber on it too for easy climbing and tough approaches. i'm really sad though becuase mine have not come in yet and i'm about to leave for my big trip...
i think that's the kind of shoe you are asking about but i could be way off.
|
|
|
|
|
|
