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shear
May 17, 2005, 2:38 AM
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that piece of s**t Ken Nichols chopped all the bolts, smashed the glue-ins, and chopped all the TR anchors at Mormon this past week. All routes are now ruined. He even chopped the one lone anchor bolt at Rose Ledges.
What a fucking douche. Our one sport crag...ruined.
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boardline22
May 17, 2005, 3:08 AM
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sounds like you should confront him and ask him why and solve the problem, or you can try to shove a cam up his ass, oh I forgot you climb sport, sorry
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shear
May 17, 2005, 3:29 AM
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not everyone can afford a full rack. if i had the funds to climb trad, i would. i even work at a gear store and had an amazing black diamond preseason deal on the new cam's...but still couldnt afford it. being a student with rent keeps me climbing sport and bouldering...much cheaper.
anyway though...this is our backyard sport crag in western mass. no more though.
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brokenarmboy19
May 17, 2005, 3:37 AM
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i agree with the cam up the ass thing but instead of a cam make it a the largest big bro you can find then use it to protect a fall preferably a bit whipper then make him eat his intestines as they will most likley be dangling out of his gaping arse wound or you can get all of your buddys to whale on him with your quickdraws that cockbite :evil: :deadhorse: beat him like that
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boardline22
May 17, 2005, 3:48 AM
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shear, I don't mean to be mean, I am just trying to get a few laughs and lighten the mood
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josephgdawson
May 17, 2005, 3:48 AM
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If someone beats the shit out of the the dude, he will stop. It is a tried and true method of dealing with people who do not understand anything else.
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shear
May 17, 2005, 3:50 AM
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its all good...im just a bit bitter right now and in a horrible mood. mormon is 20 min from my house, literally in my back yard...the only leadable place around here for me...i had a few projects there, which i had been working pretty regularly and with my last finals tomorrow, was planning on really hitting mormon hard this week.
its just really disheartening.
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quietmonk
May 17, 2005, 4:05 AM
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You could do a number of things to get revenge. If you hadn't made such a public showing of your anger, you could damage his property(smash windows, slash tires or destroy something dear to him. But that stuff, along with bodily harm is all rotten and no good.
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the_pirate
May 17, 2005, 5:29 AM
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In reply to: that piece of s**t Ken Nichols chopped all the bolts, smashed the glue-ins, and chopped all the TR anchors at Mormon this past week.
Do you have any proof that it was Ken that did the chopping? Seems like every bolt chopped in the entire northeast over the past 30 years has been attributed to him.
In reply to: You could do a number of things to get revenge. you could damage his property(smash windows, slash tires or destroy something dear to him. |
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josephgdawson
May 17, 2005, 7:56 AM
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Other than beating the shit out of the dude, I would just start an effort to rebolt all of the routes. If the chopper chopped the bolts because he thinks that bolts are bad b/c they scar the rock, put more bolts in and scar the rock more, so he knows that each time bolts are chopped at that crag, more are going up which will defeat the purpose of chopping the bolts and get the routes back up.
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shear
May 17, 2005, 1:17 PM
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i dont even think he thinks bolts are bad, but rather just has some personal vendetta against bolting in general. i know CT climbers have a restraining order against him because he thinks all the rock there is his and has severely chopped all the bolts there as well. one of my friends has talked to him a few times and says you can tell something isn't right in his mind, like he has some manifested anger for bolts. i mean the guy had to come to mormon during the night last week and rap down all the routes and chop all throughout the night.
he also put up a 25 pitch traverse at the gunks...if that tells you anything. :?
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shear
May 17, 2005, 1:44 PM
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all im going on is what people that i consider extremely "in the know" told me, that meaning people who have established the bolting at mormon and other areas around here (that im not naming out of fear now). ive talked to a good many people since last night, and it seems that Ken is the culprit. this may be simply because of his reputation, but the people who have said his name aren't the type who would just sling out a name simply to have someone to blame for it.
and yes, this sucks quite badly.
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rouge
May 17, 2005, 2:00 PM
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I heard a story once that some guys saw Ken's car in the parking lot at a crag and put a bolt into the hood of it! I'm pretty sure I'd be pissed if someone chopped bolts that I not only spent the time, effort and money into placing, but was also projecting the route. I think climbers in that area should be pissed, I can't believe this guy's still out choppin'.
-rouge
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overlord
May 17, 2005, 2:37 PM
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man, that sucks. but you should at least TRY to go about solving this problem in a ciivlized manner.
my suggestion is to make a kind of community gatherting and invite him to come. if you have a local climbers club, that would be perfect. make sure youve got the right guy and know why he did it. if the community feels the bolts belong there, they should stay.
if so, then rebulot the thing. if he chops again, find a way to proove it and sue hes ass.
beating will just lead to more violence and the next time hes chopping he wont chop, hell just saw through the bolt a bit and wait for someon to fall.
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powder_dreams
May 17, 2005, 2:39 PM
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In reply to: Other than beating the shit out of the dude, I would just start an effort to rebolt all of the routes. If the chopper chopped the bolts because he thinks that bolts are bad b/c they scar the rock, put more bolts in and scar the rock more, so he knows that each time bolts are chopped at that crag, more are going up which will defeat the purpose of chopping the bolts and get the routes back up.
Whoa... neanderthal.
In reply to: Something like find his favorite climb and smash the first few holds?
I hope this is sarcasm.
In reply to: You could do a number of things to get revenge. If you hadn't made such a public showing of your anger, you could damage his property(smash windows, slash tires or destroy something dear to him. But that stuff, along with bodily harm is all rotten and no good.
Like a 14 year old redneck. Your thought process is very insightful.
How about this... if you absolutely feel the need to make a point, go finish his job and pull the glue ins (heat the glue and they come out quite easily), cover the holes, and rebolt the highest quality lines at the crag. Sheesh.
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powder_dreams
May 17, 2005, 2:40 PM
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In reply to: Other than beating the shit out of the dude, I would just start an effort to rebolt all of the routes. If the chopper chopped the bolts because he thinks that bolts are bad b/c they scar the rock, put more bolts in and scar the rock more, so he knows that each time bolts are chopped at that crag, more are going up which will defeat the purpose of chopping the bolts and get the routes back up.
Whoa... neanderthal.
In reply to: Something like find his favorite climb and smash the first few holds?
I hope this is sarcasm.
In reply to: You could do a number of things to get revenge. If you hadn't made such a public showing of your anger, you could damage his property(smash windows, slash tires or destroy something dear to him. But that stuff, along with bodily harm is all rotten and no good.
Like a 14 year old redneck. Your thought process is very insightful.
How about this... if you absolutely feel the need to make a point, go finish his job and pull the glue ins (heat the glue and they come out quite easily), cover the holes, and rebolt the highest quality lines at the crag. Sheesh.
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the_pirate
May 17, 2005, 4:08 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Something like find his favorite climb and smash the first few holds? I hope this is sarcasm.
In reply to: all im going on is what people that i consider extremely "in the know" told me |
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cfnubbler
May 17, 2005, 4:24 PM
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That's a real bummer, and I certainly don't condone such a senseless act of vandalism, whoever the perpetrator is. Hopefully karma will come around and smack him up side his head.
But this:
In reply to: not everyone can afford a full rack. if i had the funds to climb trad, i would.
Is the weakest, saddest, most absurd justification for bolts I've ever heard.
-Nubbler
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deschamps1000
May 17, 2005, 4:39 PM
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Wow. All of this ranting & raving and nobody asked the big question.
Why were the bolts chopped?
Are there gear placements near them? Did he put up the FA without the bolts? Or is there no good reason and it's just a vicious stupid act?
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shear
May 17, 2005, 6:45 PM
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In reply to: Wow. All of this ranting & raving and nobody asked the big question. Why were the bolts chopped? Are there gear placements near them? Did he put up the FA without the bolts? Or is there no good reason and it's just a vicious stupid act?
no. there are no places to place gear...its strictly sport. and no, he has no FA's there either, he has nothing to do with the place.
-----------------------------
and yes....not being able to afford trad gear IS a valid reason as to why I am climbing so much sport right now. granted i thoroughly enjoy it, i mean i love rumney and the security of bolts...but i also learned to lead on trad gear and love it for completely different reasons than i love sport.
once i get enough expendable money to throw down on a rack, i will...but until then, its clipping bolts for me.
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brokenarmboy19
May 17, 2005, 7:15 PM
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In reply to: Hopefully karma will come around and smack him up side his head.
Hi my name is karma and i will be doing your beating today. seriously bolt the guys forehead he is going to go to climbers hell (kansas) and spend an eternety bolting on a cement rock HAHAHA :twisted:
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deschamps1000
May 18, 2005, 1:46 AM
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Shear, thanks for the info. If that is the case, then that is some fucked up shit that's been done.
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shear
May 18, 2005, 2:26 AM
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Here's the email from Jeff Squire, head of the Western Mass Climbers Coalition:
In reply to: Dear WMCC Member, The WMCC has some unfortunate news to pass along. Sometime between Monday and Friday of last week, all of the rebolting that we have been involved with at Mormon Hollow has been chopped. The WMCC has been attempting to restore many of the great routes at Mormon by replacing many of the bolts that were previously chopped and installing anchors at the tops of many of the most popular climbs in an effort to reduce damage to cliff top vegetation and create a safer climbing environment. We are not certain but given the way the bolts were chopped and the mess that was left, we are presuming the work is that of Ken Nichols. If anyone has any information about the incident, please contact us. It is important that we know who we are up against. The WMCC is refusing to let someone destroy the climbing environment we are seeking to preserve and protect. Most of the bolts that were replaced utilized existing holes and were placed according to the original route. No new routes were established and no retro bolting took place. We were simply trying to return Mormon to what is once was. We have not yet developed a plan on how to address this issue but please be assured that we will not stand by and continue to see routes in western Massachusetts be continually vandalized and destroyed. We will fight back.
so there you go...as much of a full story as you can get.
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alex234
May 18, 2005, 3:41 AM
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damn, what a dissapointment
i to go to school relatively close to mormon and rose.
although i trad climb i still enjoy a good sport route or a bolt here and there on a trad route. Not to mention their ability to save the trees on top of crags. Ive seen many trees that have shown wear from being used as anchors for toproping. I think it was rediculous to chop the bolts, but from what ive heard ken believes that all routes should be lead traditionally despite the quality of gear placements. If this is truly his belief then i dont see why he cant just climb the routes without using the bolts. Does their bng there really hurt his climbing ability that much or is he just an ignorant fool that doesnt realize the benifits of bolts. Not only do they protect the surrounding vegitation but also the climber. By chopping bolts not just on sport routes but trad routes as well with long run outs or poor pro without a bolt (such as a a bunch of CT trad routes that are now rated X without the bolt that used to be there) puts the lives of other climbers at risk. I hope he or the chopper sleeps well at night knowing that he could be the cause of some climbers death.
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