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stoppers, nuts, tapers, etc. Advice?
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ben87


May 17, 2005, 9:33 AM
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stoppers, nuts, tapers, etc. Advice?
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I've got a full set of BD stoppers, with a few doubles in the middle of the range. I'd like to supplement this, and I thought it might be nice to add on with some other kind of nut. It seems like there are tons of variations, but I havent used any of them very much.

As for types of rocks and routes, I lead moderate trad. My home cliff would be the gunks, with occasional trips to the adirondacks, NH and ME. I occasionally get a chance to climb in MD and VA as well. I'd like to make some trips out to Joshua tree or Red Rocks, but who knows when that'll happen.

What do people like to use? I don't think I need to get into micro-nuts too much... I'm not aiding or doing really hard trad. my smallest piece is a number 3 BD stopper, which I usually regard as marginal... On the big side, I carry up to an 11 or 12 BD, I think, and sometimes a few mid-range hexes.

so - what's the deal? rants and raves?


Partner j_ung


May 17, 2005, 9:47 AM
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I think you have enough wedges. IMO, start buying cams.


wjca


May 17, 2005, 10:14 AM
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A couple small tri-cams (pink, red, maybe brown).


vegastradguy


May 17, 2005, 10:19 AM
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it sounds like you have all the stoppers you should ever need for leading any trad lines...not sure you really need another set.


letolives


May 17, 2005, 10:23 AM
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Stoppers, cams and all the like are for wimps. Real man use knots, now thats a stopper.


vegastradguy


May 17, 2005, 10:26 AM
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what about dolt nuts and titons? :lol:


Partner climboard


May 17, 2005, 10:27 AM
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HB Aluminum offsets. I use them more than my regular stoppers.


ben87


May 17, 2005, 12:52 PM
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I'm all set on cams. Basically I'd just like to thicken my selection of stoppers a tiny bit - I'd like to have 1 and a half or one and three quarters of a full set.


vegastradguy


May 17, 2005, 1:10 PM
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grab the #7,8,9 HB offsets- they're great and often work where others wont.


cchildre


May 17, 2005, 1:26 PM
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Stoppers, cams and all the like are for wimps. Real man use knots, now thats a stopper.
HeartSTOPPER?


vegastradguy


May 17, 2005, 1:35 PM
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In reply to:
Stoppers, cams and all the like are for wimps. Real man use knots, now thats a stopper.
HeartSTOPPER?

actually, knotted slings arent as scary as they seem...not all that unsafe, either if used correctly.

like anything else, there's a time and a place for any type of pro...


forkliftdaddy


May 17, 2005, 1:35 PM
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In addition to a full set of stoppers, I carry some DMM Wallnuts (1-7, I think) and a couple Wild Country Rocks (1-3). This rack works well for the quartzite near me. I'd bet that HB Aluminum Offsets would come in handy sometimes. And a few of the larger brass (or copper/steel for hard rock) nuts are always nice to have.


Partner eyecannon


May 17, 2005, 5:55 PM
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Check out DMM Wallnuts, I got some of them to supplement my BD stoppers. The new ones are color anodized as well.


mesomorf


May 17, 2005, 6:29 PM
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In reply to:
what about dolt nuts and titons? :lol:

Don't forget Peck Crackers!

Seriously though, last year I switched to Metolius Curve Nuts. I'll not be going back.


cchildre


May 18, 2005, 7:01 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
Stoppers, cams and all the like are for wimps. Real man use knots, now thats a stopper.
HeartSTOPPER?

actually, knotted slings arent as scary as they seem...not all that unsafe, either if used correctly.

like anything else, there's a time and a place for any type of pro...

True, but they still step up my 'pucker factor' when I climb over them at least until I get more pro in. Did not intend to portray them as unsafe, their just don't inspire the confidence of a cam or well placed nut.


andrewph


May 18, 2005, 8:12 AM
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Bazare.
Round here its pretty standard to have two full sets (1 - 10) and most people would have a set of micro nuts as well.

Perhaps it just the folks I know but I think that is what is concidered stardard for nuts on a trad rack, at least on this side of the pond!

Andy


cchildre


May 18, 2005, 12:19 PM
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In reply to:
Bazare.
Round here its pretty standard to have two full sets (1 - 10) and most people would have a set of micro nuts as well.

Perhaps it just the folks I know but I think that is what is concidered stardard for nuts on a trad rack, at least on this side of the pond!

Andy

I agree. A single set on some of the lines I have worked would be insuffient, two sets makes me feel all warm inside, to know I have options. I know that with more time and experience I will be a better distributor of gear on a route, but right now I am zipping everything up tight and I eat through gear fast.


Partner hosh


May 18, 2005, 12:29 PM
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get the metolius nuts. They're super useful.

hosh.


cfnubbler


May 18, 2005, 1:18 PM
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I know you're hesitant to go with micro nuts, but as a Gunks / Adirondacks climber, I'd still recommend them.

You don't need to venture on to hideously desperate routes to find them very useful. There are a number of Pokomoonshine 5.10s where you will find them extremely helpful, for example. Not that Poko 5.10 isn't hard, but it is a very attainable grade for many active climbers. And micros can be pretty darn handy in the Gunks as well.

-Nubbler


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