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nolagkc
May 19, 2005, 5:43 PM
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Just curious what people's racks weigh. I have about 15 cams, a set of hexes/stoppers/tricams and miscellaneous ish on mine, and it feels like it weighs literally, 20 pounds. I'm thinking of replacing the regular ovals I rack with with wires instead, and maybe reanalyzing what I truly need. Gear is cool and all, but not when it starts to hinder your climbing.
So, suggestions for lightening the load? What kind of weight are you all working with?
Guess it depends on if it's a route you know, FA, long trad run etc...still curious though.
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speedywon
May 19, 2005, 6:01 PM
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Twenty pounds is about what mine weighs too. You could spend some extra money and go lighter on biners, webbing, cams, etc., but it's still only going to drop you a couple of pounds (crude guess).
I typically study the route beta hard before roping up and leave everything I can do without behind. Still, I always try to error on the side of too much gear vs. too little. Lately, however, I've stopped trying to lighten my load and started trying to get used to climbing with more weight. I've even tried working out at the gym with a weighted vest. The weight of my rack seems to be getting more manageable, but those early roofs moves are still "interesting" when I'm still toting 18-19 lbs of bulk that's trying to pry me off the rock.
Others than free soloing, it doesn't seem like there's another way around it.
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climbinginchico
May 19, 2005, 6:10 PM
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To cut weight, go with lightweight wiregates- the Superfly is nice for racking, heliums are probably about perfect for trad draws, with 8mm Mammut slings.
If your cams are older BD, the new C4's are significantly lighter. Can you do without the hexes? There's a decent amount of weight right there.
And, you can always carry less. I never carry larger than my #3 C4 unless I know I will need it.
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euroford
May 19, 2005, 6:13 PM
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my 'standard' outfit includes 8 trad draws, 4 quick draws, 2 screamers, dmm cams 1-4, wc zeros 5 & 6, camelots .75-3, petzl harness, bd gear sling, cordolette, prusic, 4 lockers, nut tool w/oval and a chalk bag w/locker.
this weighs in at just over 14 lbs. i use almost exclusivly bd nuetrino biners and dmm prowires. choosing gear smartly can save a ton of weight!
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nolagkc
May 19, 2005, 6:32 PM
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Breakin it down here...
BD camalots .75-4
Powercams 1-6
Trad draws-8 24" on Dynotrons/Neutrinos
Hexes 3-10
Tricams pink2x, red2x, brown, blue.
Petzl autolockers: 2
BD Stoppers: 1-11
Then a future spot for 6 aliens...
EDIT: everything racked on Omega's oval (non wire)
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kaylinr
May 19, 2005, 7:13 PM
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Sorry, double post.
I'll get over 100 post one way or the other :roll:
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kaylinr
May 19, 2005, 7:14 PM
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My rack weighs in around 9 pounds.
2) #2 C4s
2) #1 C4s
2) #.75 C4s
2) #.5 C4s
1) #.4 C4
1) red alien
1) grey alien
2) yellow aliens
2) green aliens
1) set of Dmm Walnuts
1) pink tri cam
1) red tri cam
10) trad draws (superfly gear end, helium rope end, on 8mm mammut slings)
2) extra long trad draws (doval gear end, helium rope end, on Blue Water Spectre slings)
2) webollets
6) omega locking D's (only relatively heavy gear on my rack, need to exhchange for superfly lockers :twisted: )
18) superflys for racking, one for each cam, 2 for the walnuts, 1 for the tri cams
1) Metolius Double D gear sling to hang it all on
Equals about 9 pounds, maybe a hair less.
Have C4's 3-6, but I don't bring them unless the beta demands it. They're heavy!
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nolagkc
May 19, 2005, 7:30 PM
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hmm, I could probably do without the hexes and the bigger tricams. I think dumping the heavier ovals for some Dovals or some other wire oval would help alot. Just so damn bulky right now.
And I can't imagine what it'll be like when I start doubling up and adding aliens to the mix.
To the gym I go I guess...
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omenbringer
May 19, 2005, 7:36 PM
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In reply to: Breakin it down here... BD camalots .75-4 Powercams 1-6 Trad draws-8 24" on Dynotrons/Neutrinos Hexes 3-10 Tricams pink2x, red2x, brown, blue. Petzl autolockers: 2 BD Stoppers: 1-11 Then a future spot for 6 aliens... EDIT: everything racked on Omega's oval (non wire)
Your cam choices are definately some of the heaviest choices out there, your BD's weigh in at 887 grams if C4's (5 units) or 1342 grams if the older camalots (6 units)
The metolius' weigh in at 533 grams for the 6 units, so together your cams weigh 1420 grams if you have the C4's or 1875 grams if you have the older camalots. Compare this to a full set of leightweight DMM's or Trango flex cams at 1137grams for the latter and 1254 grams for the former.
In reply to: Can you do without the hexes? There's a decent amount of weight right there
Not much you can do with the stoppers to shave weight other than dropping a few like #1-3 and probably the #11 that will save 81 grams.
Racking biners for your cams should be lightweight, if they aren't already, like the Superflys, nuetrinos, heliums, spectres, prowires, etc. You'd be surprissed how quickly you can drop weight here, each standard 50 gram carabiner that gets traded for a sub 36 will save 14 grams.
The last suggestion is to trade out those Petzl Autolockers for some smaller screwlock carabiners such as the DMM Eclipse or Trango superfly screwlocks (lightest of the light I think). Petzl William Ball autolocker at 85 grams versus DMM eclipse (large) at 58 grams and the Trango Superfly (small) at 41 grams.
With all of these measures you could shave any where between 751 grams and 1323 grams in just pro and the locking carabineers plus whatever else you can shave in carbiners.
Or
In reply to: but it's still only going to drop you a couple of pounds (crude guess).
All weight estimates came from Mountain tools, REI and the Northern Mountain Supply Websites.
Probably the best suggestion is
In reply to: I've stopped trying to lighten my load and started trying to get used to climbing with more weight. I've even tried working out at the gym with a weighted vest. The weight of my rack seems to be getting more manageable, but those early roofs moves are still "interesting" when I'm still toting 18-19 lbs of bulk that's trying to pry me off the rock. |
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nolagkc
May 19, 2005, 7:48 PM
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omenbringer...thanks for breakdown of my breakdown...
I have the new C4's, can't do much there and I'm not taking back the metolius cams. ALiens are aliens, and no matter how heavy they have a place reserved on my rack.
I'm going the way of dropping the hexes and the biggest tricams, and replacing some of the biners. I think swapping the heavy ovals with a smaller/superlight wire for all racking purposes will help. Plus prob take some of the ulk out of everything since those ovals are kinda chubby.
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climboard
May 19, 2005, 8:10 PM
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Mine weighs about 7-9 pounds depending on the route.
The biggest improvement you can make is going with ultralight biners. I'd ditch the hexes and the doubles in the tricams.
Here's my standard rack-
RP's - 2-5. These are lighter and stronger than stoppers.
Stoppers- 6-10. Tricams are lighter than 11-13 and cover the same range.
Tricams- pink, red, depending on the route.
HB offset- 4-11. I place these more than stoppers.
Aliens- Green, yellow, red, sometimes blue.
C4's- .4-2, sometimes 3.
Mammut dyneema slings- 8 regular, 2 double.
30 neutrinos.
3 ovalwires for racking.
Reverso.
Cordelette.
2 prussiks.
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brokenarmboy19
May 19, 2005, 8:57 PM
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yep your rack weighs too much it needs to weigh about 10lbs less i will help lighten your load :D
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scuclimber
May 19, 2005, 9:08 PM
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In reply to: yep your rack weighs too much it needs to weigh about 10lbs less i will help lighten your load :D
Heheheh. You're funny man. That comment made me laugh so hard, thanks for brightening my day. :roll:
To the OP:
I ordered a bunch of Superflys and it's amazing how light they are--definitely recommended. Metolius cams aren't exactly light, but if you like them then that's your bag. I have four Trango Flexcams and a C4 at this point and working on adding more. Mammut Dyneemas are hot.
Colin
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wjca
May 19, 2005, 9:10 PM
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In reply to: Breakin it down here... BD camalots .75-4 Powercams 1-6 Trad draws-8 24" on Dynotrons/Neutrinos Hexes 3-10 Tricams pink2x, red2x, brown, blue. Petzl autolockers: 2 BD Stoppers: 1-11 Then a future spot for 6 aliens... EDIT: everything racked on Omega's oval (non wire)
My advice is similar to others, but first, instead of telling you to buy something else, I would suggest culling what you have, as follows: Loose one of the pink and red tricams and the blue tricam (maybe even the brown if you don't use it often). Unless your route beta calls for large pro, leave the #3.5 and #4 camalot at home, or at least with your second. I like my hexes, but I only carry #6-9. Leave the hexes that overlap the stoppers. Leave the #1-3 stoppers as well. Again, all of this depends on the route, etc. Do you use all of the power cams?
I can't image that buying new dyneema slings at $7 each will save weight over nylon slings that still have life in them. But, when its time to replace, I would consider nylon. I love wiregates.
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boardline22
May 19, 2005, 9:17 PM
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I have a caraminer and atc, i think that eighs about a pound if not less
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nolagkc
May 19, 2005, 9:25 PM
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All great advice...went home for lunch break and had some fun...lunch didn't get head though...dammit.
The dropping of hexes where stoppers overlap seems good, as well as dropping the doubles of tricams (no loss since 3 were free)
Neutrinos are small...way small, but I guess for racking they seem like a popular option.
EDIT: definetly supposed to say "had" there, lunch didn't get HAD...good grief
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esallen
May 19, 2005, 9:27 PM
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Around 25 cams, a but load of nuts and passive tris. A box full draws and spare biners, about 12 2ft slings, and a bunch of other misc crap. The only way I'd carry the whold thing is if I were aiding.
Eric
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hangerlessbolt
May 19, 2005, 9:49 PM
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You’ll leave a lot of your rack in your pack. As you gain experience, you’ll learn what you need to take and what you can leave behind depending on the route.
Most of the routes I’ve done at Tahquitz and Josh, I’ve led with:
1 Set of Wild Country nuts
1 Set of Black Diamond Camalots up to a #3 (doubles on .5’s, .75’s, 1’s and 2’s)
10 Trad draws
2 Lockers
1 Cordalette
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brutusofwyde
May 19, 2005, 11:18 PM
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Just spent 4 days climbing at Tahquitz exclusively with Nanos and Kong Heliums, and hafta say these Nanos put even the Neutrinos to shame.
The rack? 2 sets cams (DMM 4 cam units #2 - #4 and Stregor Titanium cams #2 - #4, one each of the smaller DMMs down to 1.25, one each Aliens Red & yellow, 1 each Alien Hybrid blue through red, and a single set of nuts. Thin Dyneema slings.
Brutus
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tyify
May 19, 2005, 11:23 PM
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tyify moved this thread from General to Trad Climbing.
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nolagkc
May 19, 2005, 11:39 PM
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I'm glad I got the Dynotrons cheap cause I'm thinking I may use em for something else now, I should of used Superflys in place of them I think. The weight savings would of been pretty healthy.
I'll be cruising Tahquitz this weekend with slimmed down rack and see how it goes I guess, I can imagine ones rack is, for the most part, a work in progress. Constantly evolving (at least in the early years of trad climbing) to suit what is comfortable/light enough/still efficient.
Damn trad...I guess this is a good problem to have though, more gear than less...
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tradrenn
May 20, 2005, 2:55 AM
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In reply to: You’ll leave a lot of your rack in your pack. As you gain experience, you’ll learn what you need to take and what you can leave behind depending on the route.
I will agree with that.
So far I shaved of about 1 kg of my rack ( used to be about 4 kg )
Today I shaved another 88 grams. I repleaced BD binners with the newest DMM ( 89g. and 66g. respectively )
Now I'm thinking about getting rid of reverso, but I don't realy like to rappel on Munter Hitch. So I guess reverso stays.
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jimfix
May 20, 2005, 3:43 AM
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If you really want to save weight, keep the hexes and drop cams. A low fat diet might help to :wink:
I know I could lose 5kg off my arse before I could shave a kg off my 8 kg rack.
Leave it on the ground, that way it will be shiny forever.
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boardline22
May 20, 2005, 3:53 AM
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if u need yo weigh less shave all body hair off your body
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