Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Usage of Pitons?!
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tecchahccet


May 20, 2005, 2:25 PM
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Usage of Pitons?!
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Aside from clean aiding techniques, you talk about using pitons, lost arrows, rurps, etc. Isn't that unethical? Are those peices removable? In what situation would you use them?

Thanks y'all - Just breakin through to the aid side of things.


ricardol


May 20, 2005, 2:35 PM
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talk about troll fodder ..

T0


lambone


May 21, 2005, 12:51 PM
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I'm confused, what's the question???


bandycoot


May 21, 2005, 1:56 PM
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Try to use pitons only when necessary. There are still many climbs that require pitons for upward progress on aid and as protection. Other climbs that used to require pitons no longer do due to either advancing technology/gear or the crack has actually widened from the piton use to accept nuts, cams, and other pieces of gear. Sometimes you can even hand place pitons when aiding and they are solid enough to work and do no further damage to the rock. I think a good rule of thumb is only nail when NECESSARY.


renohandjams


Jun 15, 2005, 3:02 PM
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I think during an emergency. On a multi-pitch or big wall a collection of pitons are probably always a good idea in case the worst possible senario happens and you have to repel, or rescue a member of your party.



-Kenny
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skinner


Jun 17, 2005, 8:36 AM
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I think it depends on the rock too. I do understand the damage that can be done from repeatedly driving and removing pitons on popular routes, especially in granite.
You have to look long and hard to find a place to stuff a cam or nut in on the some of the limestone that I climb on and if you didn't have a good supply of knife blades/bugaboos on hand you'd be screwed.
I wouldn't normally pound a pin in where a cam or nut would fit, but if I have to bail you can bet that I would leave a piton behind before anything else on my rack! :wink:


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