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tecchahccet
May 20, 2005, 9:25 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2005
Posts: 1
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Aside from clean aiding techniques, you talk about using pitons, lost arrows, rurps, etc. Isn't that unethical? Are those peices removable? In what situation would you use them? Thanks y'all - Just breakin through to the aid side of things.
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ricardol
May 20, 2005, 9:35 PM
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1050
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talk about troll fodder .. T0
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lambone
May 21, 2005, 7:51 PM
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Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1399
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I'm confused, what's the question???
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bandycoot
May 21, 2005, 8:56 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
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Try to use pitons only when necessary. There are still many climbs that require pitons for upward progress on aid and as protection. Other climbs that used to require pitons no longer do due to either advancing technology/gear or the crack has actually widened from the piton use to accept nuts, cams, and other pieces of gear. Sometimes you can even hand place pitons when aiding and they are solid enough to work and do no further damage to the rock. I think a good rule of thumb is only nail when NECESSARY.
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renohandjams
Jun 15, 2005, 10:02 PM
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Registered: May 24, 2005
Posts: 616
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I think during an emergency. On a multi-pitch or big wall a collection of pitons are probably always a good idea in case the worst possible senario happens and you have to repel, or rescue a member of your party. -Kenny ------------------------ TradRack.com SuperStore Free Email Accounts, yourname@TradRack.com, only 100 to give Click here to see if you name is available
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skinner
Jun 17, 2005, 3:36 PM
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 1747
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I think it depends on the rock too. I do understand the damage that can be done from repeatedly driving and removing pitons on popular routes, especially in granite. You have to look long and hard to find a place to stuff a cam or nut in on the some of the limestone that I climb on and if you didn't have a good supply of knife blades/bugaboos on hand you'd be screwed. I wouldn't normally pound a pin in where a cam or nut would fit, but if I have to bail you can bet that I would leave a piton behind before anything else on my rack! :wink:
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