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danegerous
May 23, 2005, 3:25 PM
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Registered: May 21, 2005
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i was researching a little bit about the gear needed for climbing sport, but as noted in the forum repeatedly, other climbers with knowledge is much better than book knowledge. so, having said that, what should i get, from where and why? dont just feed me, point me in directions that will teach me concepts and rules. i want to learn to be a great sport climber, but i want to have my own style and flare...but in the process, i dont want to be dead...so any recommendations or "stay away froms..." would be great. thanks ps - also little tricks, like always carry x amount of extra safe draws or locking biners or whatever...thanks
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jw11733
May 23, 2005, 3:37 PM
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In reply to: other climbers with knowledge is much better than book knowledge. A good book can get you a long way, and is probably more trustworthy than what you can read on the internet. Try John Longs books for a start. The very best way to learn is to go climbing with someone you trust, and have them show you the ropes.
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danegerous
May 23, 2005, 3:50 PM
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A good book can get you a long way, and is probably more trustworthy than what you can read on the internet. Try John Longs books for a start. The very best way to learn is to go climbing with someone you trust, and have them show you the ropes. agreed. i didnt mean to say a book is useless, but when on a rock that others have climbed, sometimes the book wont give yhe geniune real-life feel that an experienced person could. and i intend to do the "off-rock" research, but i would also like to pick the brains of weathered climbers... and im working on finding a trustworthy sport climber as we speak
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jeep4evr
May 23, 2005, 3:57 PM
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Yeah why not. Here's what will get ya started, then, like jw said, either get a book, or climb with more knowledgeable people. But a little knowing going into it also goes a long way. This is what I use for sport, and opinions will differ, so this is just a guideline to toss around and argue. Depending on the rating a pitch may have 5, 6, 10, whatever bolts, plus the anchors, on top. I try to carry at least 1 more quickdarw than needed, encase I drop one. If I think I can't see all the bolts I like to carry at least 2 extra than what I can see. I also carry a daisy chain and locking biner to clip into on the hangers on top when setting up a toprope. Lately I've considered using 2 daisy's at the top, just because all that SRENE stuff has gotten into my head, but I dunno, no need to make a rack more bulky than it need be. I like to carry a spare biner or 2 on my harness just cause its good to carry those, especially when feeding rope through your anchors (never know when you'll drop the rope and watch it slip back down and onto the ground. Overhand on a bight is good to for securing the rope next to you). As far as anchor building goes, 3 locking biners and a long runner will do the trick. So will 2 quickdraws, just make sure you still have 2 left when you're at the top. Oh yeah, and don't forget your ATC, that can be bad juju if you're gonna be self rappeling down. All this is assuming you're leading.... now go get a book or partner! :D
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danegerous
May 23, 2005, 4:04 PM
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thank you sir, that's what im looking for! now i can take that, look into what to get from where and how to use it. then from there go out and try it... thanks a lot. if anyone disagrees or has other options, i would love to hear em! thanks
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landgolier
May 23, 2005, 4:11 PM
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pagangear.com don't forget a helmet skimp on the rope (non-dry and 50m is fine, you will trash your first rope) don't skimp on draws, you will keep biners a long time and will hate life when you want to climb trad and you have all the heavy biners from your OP dirbag draws get a couple of 24" slings and maybe a 48" if you don't toprope you don't need lockers, but if you want lockers don't buy the omega locking d's, they're cheap but the gate opening is narrow and buy the helmet
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landgolier
May 23, 2005, 4:12 PM
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pagangear.com don't forget a helmet skimp on the rope (non-dry and 50m is fine, you will trash your first rope) don't skimp on draws, you will keep biners a long time and will hate life when you want to climb trad and you have all the heavy biners from your OP dirbag draws get a couple of 24" slings and maybe a 48" if you don't toprope you don't need lockers, but if you want lockers don't buy the omega locking d's, they're cheap but the gate opening is narrow and buy the helmet
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andy_reagan
May 23, 2005, 4:13 PM
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Don't worry about the gear. This is sport climbing after all. All your questions about gear will become screamingly obvious the first time you go out with someone and lead a few routes. Worry about your endurance, lead head, etc. The carabiner thingys are pretty easy to learn.
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jw11733
May 23, 2005, 4:14 PM
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Sounds like you have the correct idea. Here are a couple of things to keep in mind: 1: Don't get lazy about checking your harness and knot - always do it before you step off the ground. Even very experienced climbers have messed this up. 2: Always be sure you have enough rope to lower. On really long climbs, it doesn't hurt to have the belayer tie in to the other end of the rope, which will prevent you from getting dropped should you run out of rope. 3: Communicate VERY clearly with the belayer. When cleaning the anchors, you can either rappel or be lowered. Be sure your belayer knows what you intend to do, as rappelling requires your belayer to take you off belay, whereas lowering does not. If you intend to lower, NEVER call off belay. It has happened before with fatal consequences. If you are belaying for someone who calls off belay, be damn sure they mean it before you do. If you don't yet know about cleaning the anchors, read this again when you do. 4: Clip from the most comfortable stance. Resist the temptation to clip too early, as falling with an armload of slack will result in a long fall. 5: learn to belay well: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...iewtopic.php?t=66620
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danegerous
May 23, 2005, 4:56 PM
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Registered: May 21, 2005
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thank you very much! keep em coming! i plan on: 1) building my technique, increasing all the skills necessary to excel outdoors 2) learn lead indoors 3) hook up with a skilled climber and venture to the outdoor world. id like to be outdoors by the beginning of july.
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andrewbanandrew
May 24, 2005, 2:19 AM
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I am not that experienced but I just took the same step you're about to take, so I kind of know how you feel. If you are planning on buying a full set of draws (and the number will vary depending on where you intend to climb at, so research guidebooks and get a feel for how many bolts nearby routes have), I strongly suggest you go to the store and make up every single possible combination of draw that you can afford. Every biner feels different and all the specs in the world won't matter if you hate handling them. I have small hands, so most of my carabiners are Neutrinos because they were cheap ($5.45/pc at summithut.com) and small, easier for me to pinch clip. Make sure to get a couple longer draws, there are times when the biner will sit in such a way that it would get loaded over an edge if you fall. This is bad. Slings are useful, a web-o-lette or cordalette is usually overkill unless you plan on doing a ton of toproping or would like to get into multipitch, but honestly, you don't need it now. If you are going to be toproping a lot on a route and plan on using quickdraws as your anchor, it may be a good idea to put lockers on those draws. It's up to you though, I've seen it done every which way. Also don't be afraid to tell people who aren't climbing to quiet down when you are belaying so you can hear your climber. Learn everything and anything you would do on the ground first, from an experienced climber. Don't climb routes with questionable bolts (well, I guess that's up to you, but if you prod it with your finger and it jiggles...). Don't shove your finger in a hanger if you get off balance and feel like you're going to fall, as you'll probably really hurt that finger. I am going to say something controversial and tell you not to bite the rope in order to pull up more slack. Yes, you can spit out the rope if you fall, but I know of two people who have lost teeth when they failed to spit the rope out. Be mindful of how the route is bolted and evaluate the risk of a ground fall when attempting the second clip. I was taught to clip at waist level (saves a bit of energy because you don't have to grab an armful of slack) but for some reason I keep clipping at the end of my reach. I think it's my own bad habit.
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nameht
Jun 6, 2005, 11:54 PM
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Registered: May 31, 2005
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In reply to: I am going to say something controversial and tell you not to bite the rope in order to pull up more slack. Yes, you can spit out the rope if you fall, but I know of two people who have lost teeth when they failed to spit the rope out. That happened to my friend's brother during his indoor leading test. He looked like a hill-billie for a few weeks 'till he went to the dentist and got a fake tooth put in.
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