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snapier
Jul 7, 2002, 7:43 PM
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Does anyone own any of these? I was thinking about buying a set of these to start off a rack but I've never seen these in person...from the picture I've seen they look like standard nuts, tapered... let me know your experiences please! Thanks!
(I'm gonna go check the Cassin website now too!)
[ This Message was edited by: snapier on 2002-07-07 12:50 ]
[ This Message was edited by: snapier on 2002-07-12 14:46 ]
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mobius
Jul 8, 2002, 3:09 AM
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I dono about those...but i really prefer the Met. Curved nuts. There wicked awesome. The only complaint any review gives of them is that sometimes there to hard to get out...meaning there stuck in there damn good...meaning that there bommer. Hoped that helped a bit, but prob not cuz its not about your question ehh?
Matthew~
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climbinganne
Jul 8, 2002, 3:34 AM
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I have a set and I love them!!! They are super light too!! I got a great deal on mine. Whats the web site $$...I'll look up where I got them and see if they are cheaper for you...lemme know.
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snapier
Jul 8, 2002, 4:27 PM
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Mobius - thanks for the tip...the Cassin's are sooo cheap and I'm just starting out leading (I'm gonna practice placement for AWHILE on TR and just standing on the ground) so I was thinking about getting the Cassin's to start and I'll consider Metolius curved later when I start work (in Sept woohoo!!!)
Anne - good to know that somebody else has these and likes them! The website is selling the full set (#0 - #8) for $39 (which I thought was a pretty good price)
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climberchic
Jul 8, 2002, 6:42 PM
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There is a small review of every brand of nuts (including the Cassin Half Moons) in the US (minus Pi-Nutz and HB offsets) in the latest issue of R&I if you're interested. I'll try and post it later when I have the mag in front of me.
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rck_climber
Jul 9, 2002, 3:14 PM
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Steve,
If you're looking for an inexpensive set of nuts, the best price I've found yet is through Rock Empire. They're selling a set of nuts (1-8) for $28.
I've not climbed on them though, so I can't speak as to their quality.
Hope this helps.
Mick
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snapier
Jul 10, 2002, 1:00 AM
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Erica - thanks for the heads up on the Rock and Ice review of nuts. Picked up a copy today (was slightly confused by the "women's Issue" - wasn't sure it was the normal magazine) and the info in there helps a lot. If anything, they had really good pictures of all the products. The only thing is that it seemed like they gave every set of nuts favorable reviews with almost no complaints...hmm....
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climberchic
Jul 10, 2002, 10:14 PM
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Steve,
I noticed that too. Personally, I think it is a newbie reviewer that was just stoked they got a free set of nuts from each company and didn't want to say anything bad about the gift-givers. Seemed to be obsessed with color-coding and number stamping on the nuts. I hope you got some good info from it. If not, read up on some of your sisters in climbing. It's a great issue!
One lil' gripe, though. I love Lisa Rands. She kicks some hardcore bouldering butt. But does she deserve a 2-page centerfold-type spread and someone like Nancy Feagin gets a 1/2 page cubby with a 1-paragraph bio? She attempted Everest and retreated after near death due to severe pulmonary edema. Went back to summit 2 weeks after her retreat. Besides her mountaineering expertise, she's a competitive ice climber, big waller, and oh yeah. She climbs 5.13. They could barely fit her most harrowing accomplishments in that little nod.
Sorry, got off on a rant. Back to nuts talk.
~Erica
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rck_climber
Jul 10, 2002, 10:34 PM
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The main reason that comes to mind why they're all rated just about the same is because - they ARE all about the same.
The idea of stoppers is a pretty simple one, and therefore, has not been expanded upon much since they're development.
About the wildest thing to happen to nuts since they're conception is when Metolius curved theirs. Now that's caught on pretty well too w/ alot of manufacturers.
There's not alot of science to it, jam it in a crack - pull down (Although rrrAdam's got some neat tricks). That's why they make such a big deal about the sizing and color coding - it's about the only thing that really differentiates them all.
Just my thoughts.
Mick
EDIT: HAD to fix the spelling - was killing me!
[ This Message was edited by: rck_climber on 2002-07-10 15:35 ]
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rocknpowda
Jul 10, 2002, 10:36 PM
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I'll probably get flack for saying it but
NUTS is NUTS
At least when you are starting out, the small differences in taper and shape won't make that big of a difference. When you start aid climbing or climbing in certain areas alot, you may want to supplement your rack with certain shapes or brands of nuts.
For your first set-get what is cheap.
I think the half moons look like the old wild country nuts that have worked really well when I used them. The nut is a little longer than a BD or lucky.
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snapier
Jul 11, 2002, 12:01 AM
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Guys thanks for all the input! It's true that nuts are a pretty simple thing and all companies make them pretty much the same. I guess the only thing I would be worried about is a suspect attachment of the wire to the nut...
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rck_climber
Jul 11, 2002, 7:27 PM
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I don't know how much solace you'll actually take in this, Steve, but...
Remember that as long as they are UIAA certified, they must pass rigorous test to ensure proper craftsmanship and strength.
Just make sure that ANY climbing gear you buy is, in fact, certified by the UIAA (and CE when applicable).
Hope this helps.
Mick
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