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topher
Jul 8, 2002, 5:24 AM
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I have a few questions about site harnes's:
1) what is stronger a self locking buckle or traditional one (duble it back)
2) how strong are harnes's (kn)
3) how strong is a belay loop (kn)
Now i know that this will all very on brand and what not but on average.
[ This Message was edited by: crazylikeafawkes on 2002-07-08 14:14 ]
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geezergecko
Jul 8, 2002, 1:03 PM
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Petzl has a patent on the self-locking buckle, so it's Petzl (expensive but nice) vs. the rest (also nice). My climbing partner once forgot to double back on the buckle - fortunately no epic resulted. I'm now inclined to go with the more foolproof system, ie. Petzl, and be damned with the expense.
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punk
Jul 8, 2002, 1:39 PM
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The first Q being answered
Regarding the second and third
There is UIAA specs in the regard. However all the harness made today EXCEEDS the specs but in general, most harness are rated to 16kn +/- range and the loop rated to 20kn +/- range
I found this as supporting documents
hope it helped
Climb safe
[ This Message was edited by: punk on 2002-07-08 18:09 ]
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snapier
Jul 8, 2002, 8:58 PM
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I thought that no traditional harness was approved by the UIAA unless it was a chest/sit harness. I don't know though...I'm merely a rookie...
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doki
Jul 8, 2002, 9:33 PM
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Dont buy this gear w/out UIAA approve
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wiegs
Jul 8, 2002, 10:01 PM
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What's the thought on the safety of the Petzl buckles, like the ones on the Corax model? A friend of mine is worried that I'm going to catch the buckle on a rock and loosen my harness, and fall out of it... Any help on this one?
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eminem_imposter
Jul 8, 2002, 10:40 PM
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duct tape it before every climb
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wildtrail
Jul 9, 2002, 12:02 AM
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The double back system is actually stronger. Petzl's buckle system is just more fool proof.
Steve
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pir8penguin
Jul 9, 2002, 2:51 AM
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i actually own a corax, and that's never happened. it takes some deliberate feeding to unlock the buckle, even when pulled away from the waist belt. it's not very likely that you'll ever seperate the buckle from the belt, let alone enough to free the waist belt.
all harnesses, when approved and worn safely and correctly, are safe for top roping, leading, and probably a lot more than that! personally, i'll never go with anything but a petzl.
*a counter argument for the petxl harnesses i've heard a lot: it promotes laziness, and it doesn't force you to double back, so if you ever go back to another harness you may forget to do so. i personally switch brain modes between petzl and others, as they are so disimilar. such is the same for gri gri and atc.
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topher
Jul 10, 2002, 4:03 AM
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does any one know what a arr'teryx vero is rated to i look at there web page but could find any thing. also there isnt a data base on the net that has all the big brands ratings is there,
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drysdan
Jul 10, 2002, 5:03 AM
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Speaking of harnesses, and I saw the word Arc'teryx, anyone have an Arc'teryx Vapor? I've been considering getting one, and would love some user input first... thanks. Climb on.
-T
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snapier
Jul 10, 2002, 5:09 AM
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Drysdan - I am a huge fan of the Arcteryx harnesses. I have never tried the Vapor but it looks spiffy. If it's anything like the other harnesses they make, it is damn comfortable. The only complaint I might have is that the leg loops aren't adjustable. No biggie, but I currently climb in a Targa which has the same non-adjustable leg loop problems and it ticks me off sometimes...
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