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pheenixx
May 24, 2005, 11:10 PM
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Registered: May 22, 2004
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Been shopping for new harness/trying things on, other is at birthday #5. Was wondering if anyone else noticed (and is not happy) with the "shrinking gear loops". I started looking at the '04 models. Now ready to buy - the '05 models seem to have even smaller loops..!! :evil: Exple: BD Momentum Primrose AL. (note* The right front gearloop sometimes is smaller than left as they put the buckle there). Being a "righty" this is extremely annoying. Being a size small, I often get the smallest gear loops of all as they seem to be adjusted by harness size...?? :? Does a climbers weight/size determine the amount of gear a climber needs for a route.. :roll: Sometimes the back (2nd) loop is made of cordelett and barely large enough for 4 crowded pieces.
I currently like to rack up on my harness. The Misty Cadillac seems great with 2 rows however they are now sized "unisex" which means the leg loops are the shorter and sized for men (too small). BD's Focus AL has the same unisex issue. I spoke to BD for their suggestions, help and my question of 'why' their harnesses were split up into sport & trad categories, when the only difference appeared to be whether the legs were adjustable or not. My comments are being passed on and I'm being sent an '04 Primrose AL to try (with missmatched sized front gear loops).
My original (now best loved) is the older Metolius (new style, smaller loops)with a LARGE front gear loop stitched horizontally (like a luggage handle) that never sags with additional weight. It was stitched above the waistband and the lower loop stitched below and overlapping width so the size was not dependent upon the harness size. All the gear loops (molded or not) now seem to be sewn on the same row, thus thinner climbers get smaller gear loops.
I've contacted Misty M. and they've (very nicely) offered to make me a Cadillac (2 row loops) with the legs (women's size) from the Silhoutte style. It's gonna cost almost $100... :shock: but it may be my only answer.
I've checked past forums and have not noticed anything posted - sorry if I am repeating this rant and will welcome referral to any prior info. I've checked out some styles with Mammut, Wild Country and Petzel (sloping forward molded loops - yech)
Are there any gear/harness suppliers that can give me my "Big-Loops" back again..! The cadillac seems a bit heavy and warm for summer climbing.
Thanks in advance for reading all this :oops: and offering info ~ phx ~
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vegastradguy
May 24, 2005, 11:15 PM
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i've noticed that most harnesses suck for gear loops. Misty Mountain and Yates seem to be the only ones who actually make harnesses meant for holding up to a full rack of gear.
check this one out-
Yates Astroman - dunno how its sized in relation to women, but it may be worth a look. i use this harness and can put a full double rack of cams, 10 trad draws, and an anchor kit on it comfortably- and still keep the haul loop free for misc things.
also, what about the women's safe-tech harness from Metolius, i seem to remember it having some pretty beefy gear loops.
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pheenixx
May 24, 2005, 11:25 PM
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Thanks vegastradguy..! -will check out Yates as suggested. Metolius was the maker of my original harness and the new one has smaller loops. The 2nd (back) one being quite disappointing. :cry:
I've checked online to find another Met. (older) model -- all that seems to be out there is sz XL.... :?
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slacklinejoe
May 24, 2005, 11:59 PM
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I'd ask Yates about customizing a harness for you as well, both them and misty mountain seem quite willing to help people out.
Also, there are those of us who modify our own harnesses to fit our criteria. Thin webbing threaded through or over vinyl or plastic tubing and stitched into place is all that most gear loops really are. As long as you know how to sew beefy stuff it shouldn't be too difficult.
Also, was it $100 extra or total from misty mountain? If it was only $100 total, then quit worrying, I paid $89 for mine at a local shop. There might be cheaper harnesses out there, but man, the Cadillac is just great and actually has room to rack stuff.
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pheenixx
May 25, 2005, 12:36 AM
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In reply to: I'd ask Yates about customizing a harness for you as well, both them and misty mountain seem quite willing to help people out.
Will check into Yates tomorrow (when they open) - thanks..!
In reply to: Also, there are those of us who modify our own harnesses to fit our criteria. Thin webbing threaded through or over vinyl or plastic tubing and stitched into place is all that most gear loops really are. As long as you know how to sew beefy stuff it shouldn't be too difficult.
That though had crossed my mind - to maybe "add" something on to a harness that fit well. As I'm not really messin' around with the "safety structure" of the harness - it should be o.k...? (I'll just never be able to belay off of my gear loop again heh-heh)
In reply to: Also, was it $100 extra or total from misty mountain? If it was only $100 total, then quit worrying, I paid $89 for mine at a local shop. There might be cheaper harnesses out there, but man, the Cadillac is just great and actually has room to rack stuff.
$100 was total - not x-tra. Guess it's worth it to get it right. Thanks for your advice..! :)
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tradklime
May 25, 2005, 5:58 PM
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Ya, the newer gear loops are terrible, especially with BD. The new molded loops on BD harnesses are ridiculously small. And last year styles with different size loops are a total joke. WTF?
I don't know why you don't like the molded loops. If you did, the mammut focus is a great bargain, and has huge loops. I recently purchased the petzl adjama, which is great. Nice burly molded loop on front on very large fabric loops in the back that lay flat.
Most of the wild coutry harnesses have small loops. They do make one harness with a bunch of extra loops though.
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climboard
May 25, 2005, 6:16 PM
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Check out the Arcteryx Vapor harness. They are comfy, have 4 full sized gear loops, haul loop, and come in both Men's and Women's models.
I wear a men's small and haven't had any problems with racking all my gear on my harness.
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pheenixx
May 25, 2005, 6:20 PM
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In reply to: I don't know why you don't like the molded loops. If you did, the mammut focus is a great bargain, and has huge loops. I recently purchased the petzl adjama, which is great. Nice burly molded loop on front on very large fabric loops in the back that lay flat. Most of the wild coutry harnesses have small loops. They do make one harness with a bunch of extra loops though.
Don't think I mentioned not liking the "molded" loops. I'm willing to try them and BD is sending me an '04 model (as mentioned) I've just heard that the molded loops that "angle forward" are only good for sport when all your pieces are same, but a bitch for trad when all of your pieces are weighting toward the 1st piece in front position (seemingly logical). I believe this feature is part of the harness you mentioned "petzl adjama". Do you use this harness for trad and find this a problem..??
Do you find the "flat" laying fabric loop in the back of your harness - difficult to clip in and out of..?
Not wanting to spend $$ for a separate sport AND a trad harness - I'm trying to get a harness that would be good for both. I'll check out WC's website.
Thanks in much for your input and response... :)
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jeep4evr
May 25, 2005, 6:31 PM
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more and more it seems harness loops are intended only for sport draws and any other misc. things to hang on it, maybe a few cams. If you need a ton of cams though a runner or gear sling is your best bet anyway.
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tradklime
May 25, 2005, 6:40 PM
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In reply to: I've just heard that the molded loops that "angle forward" are only good for sport when all your pieces are same, but a b---- for trad when all of your pieces are weighting toward the 1st piece in front position (seemingly logical).
Well, I usually rack my gear on a sling, and put draws on my harness. That said, the sloped loops are no worse than semi-circular loops where the gear weights towards the middle. The loops on the mammut harness are pretty flat, not much of a slope. The petzl ones are sloped, but not a problem for me.
In reply to: Do you find the "flat" laying fabric loop in the back of your harness - difficult to clip in and out of..?
I generally put things on the back loops that I'm not likely to be desperate to grab, like my belay device, nut tool, extra biners, water bottle, etc. So I haven't noticed any problem with them. What i have noticed is that they are great if you have a pack on, and better when you are grovelling in wide stuff.
If you are looking hang all of your gear on your harness, i'd suggest one of the big wall oriented models. Eventually you will carry too much gear for your harness, if it has only two normally sized loops.
Personnally, I don't like having all my gear on my harness because I inevitably find myself contorted, jammed up in some crack with only one hand free and the piece i need is on the back loop on the opposite side that I can't see.
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chrisparedes
May 25, 2005, 7:16 PM
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the Metolius Safe-Tech Harness has nice beefy, full strength gear loops that dont sag. I like that harness alot.
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pheenixx
May 26, 2005, 4:28 AM
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Registered: May 22, 2004
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In reply to: more and more it seems harness loops are intended only for sport draws and any other misc. things to hang on it, maybe a few cams. If you need a ton of cams though a runner or gear sling is your best bet anyway.
Thanks jeep4evr ~ I haven't been to happy using a gear sling. Throws me off balance when climbing. I never know what side I'll be leaning toward when I climb - until I lean that way and then WACK -- all my gear flies in that direction too and throws off balance.
I'm only leading a pitch at a time right now - not carrying too much of a "big wall lead". When that happens, I'll probably go for something more balanced like the 2-sided metolius sling w/the little camelback.
One of the reasons for my post is -- I have gone to several climbing shops already and tried on many things. I have also called 2 shops and they have not allowed me to return a harness if it does not fit or I don't like it for some reason (too small loops). It's sometimes hard to see the 3-D details online. So here I am asking for advice. I will check into all that has been mentioned going down the list -- thanks all for your suggestions..! :)
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jeep4evr
May 26, 2005, 2:44 PM
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Someone needs to invent a gear-loop "add-on" accessory. For instance, I use the Petzl Calidris, and the gear loops definitely seem overly small for an all-around harness (all-around must mean TR/sport/nothing else). If they had an add-on where you could clip one larger loop that extends from the front of the first gear loop, to the back of the second...hmmmm. Ok, just another get-rich-quick(-so-I-can-afford-hella-climbing-gear) scheme. Probably wouldnt work.
peace, John
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angelaa
May 26, 2005, 3:01 PM
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I've never used my Misty harness for gear instead of a gear sling, so I can't speak to that point.
But. . as far as the Misty product, I would give it 5 Stars!
- customer service is a 5 star rating too!
totally worth the $100 in my opinion!
[especially since it sounds like you're looking for the 'holly grail' of harnesses!] :wink:
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pheenixx
May 26, 2005, 3:24 PM
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In reply to: But. . as far as the Misty product, I would give it 5 Stars! - customer service is a 5 star rating too! totally worth the $100 in my opinion! [especially since it sounds like you're looking for the 'holly grail' of harnesses!] :wink:
Hell yeah...! They gave it to me once so why can't they give it to me again (cheap bastards)
Yes, MMtn people were very nice on the phone...thanks..! (geesh but $100 - whine...)
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moondog
May 27, 2005, 2:43 PM
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In reply to: If they had an add-on where you could clip one larger loop that extends from the front of the first gear loop, to the back of the second...hmmmm.
Many molded gear loops are equipped with small holes for attaching extra loopage...
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pheenixx
May 27, 2005, 3:04 PM
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Registered: May 22, 2004
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In reply to: In reply to: If they had an add-on where you could clip one larger loop that extends from the front of the first gear loop, to the back of the second...hmmmm. Many molded gear loops are equipped with small holes for attaching extra loopage...
Never seen or noticed this feature - sounds interesting..Can you mention a specific harness / model ..? Thanks..!
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moondog
May 27, 2005, 3:20 PM
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Sure...Petzl molded gear loops have a small hole for gear loop cord and a large hole for a racking carabiner. Some have two molded loops (e.g. Adjama) and others have four (Calidris).
I think some BD and Singing Rock models have similar features, but not sure.
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jeep4evr
May 27, 2005, 4:22 PM
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The Singing Rock has a nifty feature where you can attach a locking carabiner (ideally) to the hole at the back of the gear loop and then when you need that carabiner just yank it out (the hole has a "hole" in it). My buddy uses that for his daisy chain locker when clipping into anchor bolts.
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hex
May 27, 2005, 4:58 PM
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Wild Country harnesses have decent gear loops, the Syncro (regular size) has NINE gear loops, think the small verion has six... nice harnesses :) I have the older small syncro with 5 gear loops.
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