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vergon
Jul 10, 2002, 11:28 AM
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How long does it take to go through a pair of climbing shoes?
My Boreal Pyros, which i bought about four month ago, has developed a large hole on the tip of the left toe. I talked with the Swedish agent for Boreal and he said that if you climb a lot indoors, it is not uncommon to wear through the rubber in four month.
This still seems like a very short time to me, so I wonder if this is common for everyone or if my shoes might have had bad rubber? I climb between two and three times per week, both indoors and outdoors.
I apologise if this topic has been discussed, but with the search function out of order it's difficult to find old threads
Thanks,
Peter
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twinrocks
Jul 10, 2002, 11:53 AM
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I climb at least twice a week Ive had my stingers for about a year and there are no holes yet
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acrophobic
Jul 10, 2002, 1:02 PM
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well are you doing a lot of smearing and messy climbing? Shoes wear down a lot faster if your are grating them against the wall everytime you climb..
try placing your feet carefully and climb with making the least noise with your feet as possible... if your banging around and grating your just wasting energy ( and rubber! )
had my shoes for a year and a half and still got quite a bit of rubber left
[ This Message was edited by: acrophobic on 2002-07-10 06:03 ]
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doki
Jul 10, 2002, 1:21 PM
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I have a boreal zen i just bought this two months ago and there's a hole on the tip of the shoe. Thanks for the tip acrophobic.
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sarhawp
Jul 10, 2002, 1:45 PM
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Hi Vergon,
I bought my pyros about 3 months ago. I climb probably an average of five times a week and no holes yet, but I am pretty easy on my shoes. My boyfriend who climbs with me has had his shoes (Scarpa minimas) for about 6 months and the rubber is just starting to kinda tear and make holes on his toes. He's one heck of a lot harder on his shoes than I am though.
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radistrad
Jul 10, 2002, 2:28 PM
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I will go through 3 to 4 resoles a year on my Mythos, I have two pair that I rotate.
I've seen shoes wear through in just a matter of a few months and I dont climb indoors.
4 months does not sound all that bad to me, get them re-soled and they'll last another 4 months
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downshift
Jul 10, 2002, 3:12 PM
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My Zen's lasted about a year climbing on them at least twice a week both indoor and outdoor. My Scarpa Minimas only lasted about 6 month mainly indoor climbing (it was mostly winter) but they have a lot less rubber on them.
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elmosity
Jul 10, 2002, 3:31 PM
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I go through rubber about every 4-6 months. I am getting better with my footwork so it is lasting longer. Sloppy footwork wears out rubber. I usually resole with C4 which may not last as long as other rubbers, but I like it much better. I try and keep an eye on my rubber and try and resole before holes appear in the rand. It seems the fit changes when they rerand the front of the shoe.
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wildtrail
Jul 10, 2002, 3:36 PM
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I go through them once a year. That is when I buy new ones. I don't resole. I recycle.
Its a mix between a lot of climbing and sloppy footwork. Like I have said before, I climb to climb. Not a ratings bagger so I can climb "ugly" at times.
I guess if I would bother to concentrate on good footwork, they would last longer and my level would climb. But, if my level climbed, that would put me at being able to climb 5.11 or 12. I don't care cause all the good stuff, to me, is 5.9 and under. Like them classic routes. Oh, boy! Oh, boy!
Steve
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data118
Jul 10, 2002, 4:07 PM
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About how much does it cost to resole a shoe?
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climberdee
Jul 10, 2002, 4:20 PM
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Depends...half sole (no rand) is usually $15 - 20, full is about $30 - 40, rand included usually adds about $10. Can also depend on the type or rubber.
Climberdee
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spank_spank
Jul 10, 2002, 4:42 PM
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Hole in shoe after 4 months: Either have a bad pair of shoes or bad footwork.
Resole in stealth rubber.
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jt512
Jul 10, 2002, 5:53 PM
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Quote:
Hole in shoe after 4 months: Either have a bad pair of shoes or bad footwork.
Not necessarily. I wear out soles in about 3 months, climbing 3 to 4 days a week. I think it's the textured walls at my gym that is to blame.
-Jay
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spank_spank
Jul 10, 2002, 5:57 PM
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JT - Very true. Some texture on walls will wear out shoes faster than others. But generally speaking (if its a beginner climber) it is most likely footwork. There are a lot of other possibilites though.
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minos
Jul 10, 2002, 6:29 PM
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Could be a stupid question, but how do textured walls wear out shoes faster than untextured walls? If you have good foot work, your shoes would only touch the walls if you smeared wouldn't they?
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minos
Jul 10, 2002, 6:30 PM
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Could be a stupid question, but how do textured walls wear out shoes faster than untextured walls? If you have good foot work, your shoes would only touch the walls if you smeared wouldn't they?
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pir8penguin
Jul 10, 2002, 8:37 PM
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well, i can tell some minor damage on the toe rands from toe bumps/drags and flagging, but no where near making a hole. the textured wall vs not textured thing: a textured wall would tear more rubber off the shoe when flagging, dragging, or just being generally sloppy with footwork.
the best thing you can do is to train for footwork. try with bomber hand holds, and make kooky, balancy foot moves but PLACE SOFTLY and precisely, and this will not only save rubber, but energy. it will make you climb a heck of a lot better, too. it opens some major doors when you can rely on your feet and trust them on smalller holds.
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climblouisiana
Jul 10, 2002, 8:53 PM
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I had a pair of boreal zens that developed a hole in the rand after about four months. I climb 3 to 5 days a week both inside and outside.
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climbsomething
Jul 10, 2002, 9:07 PM
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I have been using my Anasazi Velcro's as my primary shoes since August, climbing upwards of 5 or 6 times a week indoors and out. Last month they developed holes in the rands, so I am going to have to force myself to send them in for repair (hope the resole shop isn't blown away by the smell tho ). I'd say 9 months was pretty good for them being my main pair of shoes, esp. since they were my first pair but then, I tread fairly lightly, avoid dragging my feet and don't walk around the base of climbs in them much. I've been good to them, and they've been pretty good to me
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jt512
Jul 10, 2002, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
...how do textured walls wear out shoes faster than untextured walls?
Um, they're...textured?
Quote:
If you have good foot work, your shoes would only touch the walls if you smeared wouldn't they?
They touch the wall if you smear or frontpoint the wall, or if you edge or frontpoint a small hold.
-Jay
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svilnit
Jul 10, 2002, 11:50 PM
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I find the textured walls of a gym to be murderous on the rubber of shoes, especially manufactured cracks. My 5.10 X-Rays lasted about one year in that environment 1-3 climbing days a week. Has anybody tried Resoling the X-Ray's?? I heard that it did not work so well...
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vergon
Jul 11, 2002, 10:04 AM
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Ok, thanks all. I obviously have to think more about my footwork in the future.
Guess I'll just have to bite the bullet and have my shoes resoled. Does anyone know a good resoler in Sweden/Europe?
The strange thing is that all the damage is on the left shoe. The right looks brand new
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pir8penguin
Jul 11, 2002, 1:20 PM
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you're right handed, aren't you?
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